Sealing Airaid Intake

Ok thanks ShoBoat that is good to know, I confirmed I had logged IAT 2, so it would seem I have a huge amount of room for improvement.
 
I did the chalk thing to try and see how well the airaid seals against the hood blanket and it isn't too had but there are some small gaps in my setup.
7y6a5a8u.jpg


Not sure how visible it is but you can barely see the chalk out line.

So that said I do not know that a lid will really help that much? ...the openings where it doesn't make contact are actually very thin.  That said it isn't air tight so it could definitely contribute to heat soak.  I'm starting to agree that if we can insulate the box better that might help more.  I do have a hole in the side of my box and I put a flexible duct down in to the side of the fenderwell.  It's surprisingly tight down there despite the way it looks...at least to get a 3" pipe in there.  I managed but it is squished pretty well in a few spots.  I am going to spend some time logging and watching the differential temps so I can compare it to my stock intake with K&N drop in and see if I notice a difference.
 
Funny I actually made the lid and put it on last night, will post pictures over the weekend.  For my Flex their is over a one inch gap in most places, so that explains a lot.  So guess this is more of a Flex/MKT issue than an SHO issue.
 
Yea I closed my hood on Flex with bumper off and headlight out. I can stick my hand in between hood and Airaid. I also cut out back of grille, side of airbox near fender to get cooler air. I can see the aircleaner thru grille now heh heh heh
 
Yeah PainterPatt I was shocked by how bad it was.  Excuse how crude my fabrication skills are, I did this quickly, still need to seal two small sections, get some proper washers, and trim some excess of the bolts, but seat of the pants says my Flex is much faster, which would make sense since my IAT's were probably always off the charts.  Notice the bolt in the top right, it sticks over an inch above the top of the airbox, and does not even touch the insulation on my hood at all.

404_28_06_14_5_45_44.jpeg
 
Looks good! I would love to see how it fairs when you do your testing. A few logged WOT runs should tell you how it performs.


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boostedflex said:
Yeah PainterPatt I was shocked by how bad it was.  Excuse how crude my fabrication skills are, I did this quickly, still need to seal two small sections, get some proper washers, and trim some excess of the bolts, but seat of the pants says my Flex is much faster, which would make sense since my IAT's were probably always off the charts.  Notice the bolt in the top right, it sticks over an inch above the top of the airbox, and does not even touch the insulation on my hood at all.

404_28_06_14_5_45_44.jpeg
Click to expand...

I like it!  I see you used threaded rod (good idea!)...I obviously see what you did on the top side...did you just drill a hole in the bottom of the box in multiple locations for the "bottom" side?  Also where did you get your plexiglass/plastic cover?
 
Hey guys,

Thanks for the comments :)  I am going to call Airaid in a few, I need to get more of the weatherstripping they ship with their kits so I can seal from around the top left bolt to the hood pin switch.  For the front I need to fabricate a piece of plastic to block hot air from getting in.  As for the air inlet, I am ultimately going to just have air coming in from the factory Airaid/stock airbox location once the insulation is done, but I may well reconsider that depending on how others experimentation goes.  For the plastic, it is simply a piece of Lexan from Home Depot, cost me $20.  Now that I know it works, I may in the future buy another piece, and take more than ten minutes to cut it so it comes out better.  Once I finish the sealing I will definitely do some data logging and see what difference it has made :)
 
Thanks Kinder, that will be phase two for sure :)

I finally finished sealing the box, and have some good data.  Ambient temperature was 82, I logged without and with the lid on, and also with both front and rear AC on (wanted to simulate worst case)

IAT1 max value without lid = 127.4
IAT1 max value with lid = 114.8
IAT1 at redline without lid = 120.2
IAT1 at redline with lid = 96.8
Max Knock at Full Throttle without lid = .75
Max Knock at Full Throttle with lid = 0
Zero to Sixty without lid = 5.40
Zero to Sixty with lid = 5.28

The biggest take from this is the 23.4 degree difference in IAT with vs without the lid at redline, and the slightly over .1 second increase in zero to sixty :)  Very pleased, with time I will insulate the box to try and get closer to ambient.

 
Gotta like the no-knock at full throttle.  Well done!  Hopefully you have a How To in the offing :D
 
Excellent! I've got plexiglass and some different rubber grommet on the way as well. May attach my lid a little  differently since its a SHO and not a Flex (not as much clearance).
 
Now that you have an enclosed box (similar to stock) are you willing to put stock one back in and try again? Unless someone else has results for a stock box?
 
Just a thought.... did you happen to see any AFR differences? Can you see what if any fuel adjustments were made to keep the afr in the tune's range? I know the tune would adjust for that but curious if the lid on the box affected the amount of air it was taking in.
 
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