Smoking from bad turbo

S

Spyder3000gtvr4

New member
So I bought an Sho a few months back with “bad turbos” The car was smoking like crazy I had to drive it home about a mile from where the car carrier had to drop it off. I bought a set of used turbos (was under the impression they were new) off eBay. I’m not a turbo expert but the turbos seemed good. So I swapped out the turbos with new gaskets and decided to change all the fluids. Rear, put, trans, rad, oil. I did get a little on the exhaust. I just took the car out for a test drive and the smoking is horrible. Anybody have any idea how long it will take to work the oil out of the exhaust?
 
:o  Are you sure there isn't any leak at this point?  seems like a lot of oil got into the cats, so it could take a few days of a good amount of driving to burn it all off.  Hopefully the cats survive the process!  Also check the o2 sensors, they might be coated in oil if the leak is upstream.
 
The rear turbo was toast in fact the shaft was broken in it so I’m sure it was dumping oil. Well I didn’t replace the hoses like I found out I should have done and I do see some smoking from the rear area was hoping it was just stuff on the exhaust. Will check everything soon the check engine light is on and what I’m assuming is the radiator fluid light. I’m going to check now about how to properly “burp” the antifreeze. So I guess next step is to buy a scan tool to see what the code is. Lol should have bought the driveline I found for 2k
 
Oil feed lines do leak, both on the SHO and MKS.  Not sure about Flex/XSport.  Is the intercooler free of buildup?
 
HOWTO on checking/cleaning the intercooler is available.  Basically use the engine oil dipstick after removing IC to TB hose. 
 
Well I replaced the battery and started the car this morning no check engine light no smoke but the coolant high temperature light was on again as soon as I started the car and fans both running. Let it run for 20 min then it started smoking but no visible leaks. Engine temp gauge didn’t go up at all. Put the heat on full blast high temp and revved the engine as per the post I did find on purging/burping the system and fluid level didn’t change. Turned the car off and let it sit about 2 minutes restarted car check engine light now on. Have to check intercooler like you said when I get back to looking at the car. As well as trying to find out if I missed a connection for this high temp light which I do not believe was on before turbo change. :)
 
If a CEL is on, it is a major item that needs to be addressed, so def read the codes.  Sometimes they are misleading, but usually help point in the correct direction.

I had assumed the smoking was from oil, is that 100% true?  Could there be coolant in there too?  I think that coolant high temp light was a red herring from the battery replacement, but best to make sure.
 
I can’t really find a proper write up or video on burping/purging the coolant. I want to try that and see if that fixes the high coolant temp light. Not seeing or noticing any disconnected wires maybe I’m missing that still. Took off air intake and there’s oil in there. Checked the cac with the dipstick and oil in there so about to try and suck it out. Going to go get a code reader to see why the cel is on as far as the smoke I’m pretty sure it’s just oil as the level of coolant does not seem to be going down. The smoke does not smell sweet it smells like burning.... oil?
Just a thanks to everybody on the forum as I’ve been trolling it quiet a bit to do everything and a big fu to ford for the rear turbo lol
 
Yeah book time is 2 hrs for front, 6 hrs for rear turbo :)

Not much really to burping unless it is a stubborn air bubble.  Highly recommend jacking up the passenger side to create a high point at the degas bottle.  Up on a curb prob works too.  Get the heat on in max after engine is warmed up.  let sit that long with the engine running, then shut it off.  Let cool down to ambient.  Check coolant level.  Repeat as needed.

If the problem is stubborn, use of the Lisle SpillFree Funnel has proven invaluable.
 
Will try that tomorrow car is jacked the other way to get all the oil to the one side for the intercooler. I can’t find the location of the temp sensor to see if I didn’t reconnect the wire. Do you think that could be giving the high temp warning as soon as I start the car if that’s not connected?
 
I am not 100% sure but the warning may be issued by the CHT sensor which is extrapolated to the ECT values.  Hopefully no pests have chewed up wiring but it doesn't seem so since it runs ok afterwards.  If you get it repeatedly, you might want to inspect the connectors for the sensor, for dirt/grime, frayed wires, loose pins, etc.
 
Do you happen to have a picture of where the sensor is? I can’t find a location for it searching the web. I found a YouTube video for a 2013 Ford Edge 3.5 which I’m sure would be similar but the web searches are just filled with junk not relevant to any of my searches.
 
:D

index.php


 
Thank you both. I was able to locate it fairly easily with the picture from Sho and it looked a little funny so I checked it and sure enough it wasn’t clipped in. I don’t recall removing it but fired her up no high temp coolant light, temp gauge now reading, fans not on at start up. Purging the car now, let it get to temp turned heat on high and it feels weak at idle but nice and hot when I revved itup a few times. Cars jacked up as per your instructions. Letting it run a few more min since coolant level still fairly the same. Got about an ounce out of the intercooler maybe a little more if I countthe oil I sprayed all over the car, shirt and then did the dipstick about 50 times. Couldn’t get it all but some has to be better then none.
Doesn’t seem to be smoking as bad but haven’t hit the street again yet, although it still stinks pretty bad and not sweet.
CEL still on... next step.

Cars been up to temp for about 20 min heat is on high and not hot at all at idle about 650rpm. Really hot at 3k rpm when I rev it then slowly cools down again
 
So update:
Drive the car around before still lots of smoke under load flooring it. Then smoke dies down after 20-30 seconds. Still smoking while driving easily. Not as bad as before I did the turbos it was pouring out before the swap driving easily. Checked fluid no change
Let the car cool down a bit check the fluid no change. Went down the block floored it no smoke. Smoke started developing as car warmed up. Drove it easily smoke was still present but nowhere near as bad. Went to autozone to get codes pulled. Driving home got on a side block floored it, lots of smoke again and then check engine light started blinking.
 
I have zero prior maintenance history other then finding 1 piece of paper in the entire car showing an oil change a few years back. Judging how bad the rear turbo was I’m not sure how well the car was taken care of. The interior and exterior looks close to mint though. With that said I don’t notice any rattles but I have zero prior experience with the sho other then this car. The only thing I noticed that I though sounded a little off was the thing under the foam circle thing under the pop off cover. That seems to be ticking. But with the sho cover on its barely noticeable. Again nothing to compare it to though.
Is it normal to pull codes and have the same one show up multiple times?
 
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