Smoking from bad turbo

all synthetics are not the same.  Due to legal allowances, synthetics can be highly refined Group III (dino oil), Group IV (true synthetic PAO), or Group V (esters & other true synthetics) OR a combination thereof.  There is little to no regulation of the mixture in the U.S.  It used to be (IDK if it still is) that in Europe, an oil could only be Group IV or V if it was marketed as full synthetic.

Depending on the base stock, volatility of "synthetics" could be 11 or could be 6.  BIIIG difference (Noack) in how much of the oil gets into the PCV system.
 
Did not know about how big of a difference between “synthetic” just assumed they were all basically the same.

So I guess my first step would be drain my oil and get conventional?
 
Going in the wrong direction there, buddy, LOL!  You should get a good quality full synthetic oil.  Redline is probably the best, the most recent formulations of Amsoil hold up well, as does Royal Purple HPS (not the SAE certified stuff).  Otherwise I would go with Kendall GT-1 Max or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.  Pennzoil has a rebate on right now I think, $10 off 5 gallon jug.
 
I wholeheartedly agree with SHOdded and seems like very sage wisdom!  :)
I have been using Redline & Amsoil since purchasing it new with 2 miles on the OD back on 8/13! In this case you definitely get what you pay for IMHO and Not an ounce of oil is lost between oil change intervals according to OCD Specs..... Z
 
Ok will look into those oils now. I just figured from what I read it sounded like the use of synthetic oil was a big no no and would cause some drama with the phasers
 
i was in high hopes that after reading the article that my synthetic oil was affecting the phasers enough to throw 147 codes at once. Lol ok new oil being added to my list for timing chain.
 
Its very unfortunate but its conventional oil that does more harm than good,especially when changed @ high intervals,which ultimately will leave you having to change your VCT solenoids sooner than later.  Z



 
I dunno.  Besides actual differences in one sprocket vs two etc.  Maybe updated seals?  No idea.  go with the part number it shows you for the MY engine you have.
 
I’m pretty sure that’s what the guy was talking about on the other forum about upgrading the newer style. Single sprocket like an old school bike chain vs what looks like 3 bike chains compressed into 1, great description I know. I’d rather do the newer style chain that isn’t notorious for stretching. All I ordered so far was cam locks and head temp sensor. I’m pretty sure that since I’m replacing the chain and water pump all that’s left is the phasers which I was considering changing anyway before you said I don’t really need them. The vct solenoids you said 1 for each Bank I take that means 2?
 
are you referring to the ford flex forum link posted earlier?

yes, 2 vct solenoids in all for the SHO.
 
Don't be.  I finally went through that thread, lot of good info in there, just not sure how much of it applies to the SHO.  Have to compare at some point ...
 
Well I reached out to livernous tonsee if they could give me a 100% answer the chain thing. To make it worse I reached out to two vendors to possibly order the pw538 waterpump and 1 said yes and 1 said no. Uhg.

Cam locks, 2 vct sensors, engine block sensor... ordered.
Timing cover gasket set? Guess so right?

So mystery waterpump and chain left to order still
 
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