something clicking / clunking in front steering or suspension ??
- Thread starter 68_GT
- Start date
Get under the car with a pry bar and start checking things outs.
Check the control arm bushings. There are two bushings on each control arm. One is replaceable and the other one isn't. Check for rips in the rubber or any play.
Check the sway bar bushings. Mine are worn and there's a little clunking under there under bumps. I'm actually about to replace both of mine in about an hour or two. Check the end links while you're looking at the sway bushings.
Check the tie rod ends for play.
Check the struts for oil leaks.
Check the control arm bushings. There are two bushings on each control arm. One is replaceable and the other one isn't. Check for rips in the rubber or any play.
Check the sway bar bushings. Mine are worn and there's a little clunking under there under bumps. I'm actually about to replace both of mine in about an hour or two. Check the end links while you're looking at the sway bushings.
Check the tie rod ends for play.
Check the struts for oil leaks.
I replaced the sway bar end links last month due to the metallic clicking over bumps. couldn't duplicate the noise driving in circles or side to side. When I jacked up the car and grabbed the end links, moving them up and down I could reproduce the sound on the passenger side, fixed the problem.
I have kinda thought it might be related to the sway bar as my car seems also to lean a little more in curves. Not sure if that would also be that noticeable if the sway bar bushings / end link are worn. Could be worn struts also. My SHO still runs hard so I just want to fix this up and keep on driving her hard 
My 2014 SHO has 25k miles and I hear a rubber/plastic-like popping noise when turning or moving in a circle at slow speeds in forward and reverse.
Does this sound like CV joints or sway bar end-links? Car feels and handles fine other than the noise. I don't always hear the noise either. It seems the more moisture there is or the colder it is, the more noticeable it is.
Does this sound like CV joints or sway bar end-links? Car feels and handles fine other than the noise. I don't always hear the noise either. It seems the more moisture there is or the colder it is, the more noticeable it is.
metroplex said:
Get the car off of the ground on jack stands and remove the tires. Grab the end links and shake them. If there's play or clicking, replace them. Also inspect the balls joints on the end links. I believe there's one on top and one at the bottom of each end link. Check for rips.
Same goes for the CV joints. Inspect for leaks or rips in the rubber housing.
In my experience with cars in general, bad ball joints seem to get noisier as the weather gets colder.
Scott, did you hear the noise while turning the steering when stopped?
I looked at the Motorcraft replacement endlinks for my SHO, and the rears look like they already use the THK ball links that Powergrid also uses:
http://www.powergridinc.com/thk.asp
But the stock front endlinks look like the ones that typically leak and fail. I'm thinking about Powergrids but I was wondering if anyone else used them on their SHO? They aren't the cheapest, and I never liked adjusting them all that much on my Cobalt SS Turbo.
Ford uses THK links on some applications, like the front endlinks for the GT500 that are also backwards compatible with all 05-14 S197 Mustangs. I swapped out my Mustang GT's stock fronts for the GT500 links and even Chip from Powergrid said that it would be a noticeable difference.
I looked at the Motorcraft replacement endlinks for my SHO, and the rears look like they already use the THK ball links that Powergrid also uses:
http://www.powergridinc.com/thk.asp
But the stock front endlinks look like the ones that typically leak and fail. I'm thinking about Powergrids but I was wondering if anyone else used them on their SHO? They aren't the cheapest, and I never liked adjusting them all that much on my Cobalt SS Turbo.
Ford uses THK links on some applications, like the front endlinks for the GT500 that are also backwards compatible with all 05-14 S197 Mustangs. I swapped out my Mustang GT's stock fronts for the GT500 links and even Chip from Powergrid said that it would be a noticeable difference.
Its was mainly slow driving over any degree of bumps. You don't typically get noise from the end links while turning the wheels with the car stopped. I did turn the steering wheel back and forth very quickly while the car was running but stopped with the door open and thought I could hear it, but it could have just been some play in the steering column. You would get the noise from the wheel moving up and down not really side to side.
ZSHO said:
I installed the Powergrid endlinks and it didn't get rid of the popping noise. It is only coming from the passenger side. I isolated to a sound towards the bottom of the car, it isn't the strut or strut mount.
Do you have more details on the thrust washers needed for the above TSB? My SHO was assembled right after the cut-off for the recall of axles falling out of the transmission/PTU. But this popping/clicking/clunking sound can be heard when quickly jerking the wheel at a full stop, or jerking the steering wheel at low speeds in forward/reverse.
If its a metal clicking/Tinging sound you are hearing you will need to replace the thrust washer's and hubs Aka(wheel bearings)mentioned on TSB referenced above.metroplex said:
Here are some pics followed by part numbers pertaining to your NON-PP SHO,hope this helps any and due LMK. Z
THRUST WASHER - FORD (BB5Z-7G273-B)
http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-ford/bb5z7g273b
HUBS
http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/bt4z1104b/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/front-suspension-scat/?part_name=front-
! No longer available
I would verify fitment at www.fordparts.com by entering your vin number. Z
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8JUL90DXgdiQlZKd29scTd0eUU/view
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