Torque PIDs...Take 2

Did some digging...

Misfire trips - confirmed - 2216dc however the equation is probably (A*256)+B.  It is returning two bytes of data so while just a "B" equation will work it will max out at 255 trips.  If you want to see a higher number than that you will need to use the full equation.

Number of Misfires during recent misfire "event"
PID 220345 (as indicated previously) however the equation is returning 4 bytes of data which means it can use the variables A, B, C, and D.  I was only able to experience a single misfire event in a 45 minute drive and the D variable showed a 1...as did Forscan.  So...and it's a guess at this point...You could probably use (C*256)+D to get you a guage that would read up to 65535 events...which would certainly be sufficient to let you know that you've got a big issue...(in theory you could represent over 4 billion misfire events with all four variables...Pretty sure your car wouldn't be running then.)

All of this was just from Forscan...I haven't verified any of it in Torque yet and probably won't until after work.  If anyone wants to try it out let me know how it goes!

I did find another PID which was "Misfire currently detected" that looked interesting but Forscan interpresets a value of 00080000 as a "No".  Not sure what a yes would look like yet but maybe I can catch one.  The PID is 220700.
 
On way from driving range, putt putt, and go karts we had the a/c on as ambient was a sticky 85*(IAT2 109*). With a/c on, light throttle on the e-way at 70 was giving a +3 kr! Turn off a/c and kr was complete opposite going right to -3.5? Can the a/c have that much affect?
 
And I must not have noticed or it didn't(^) register but after we stopped for slurpees the misfire trips had reset too!!!

Edit: ^(The misfire event must not have registered)
 
Had misfire trips start over again today after the wife took car on a 1 mile round trip. She said she didn't see any misfire events record, but when I started it up it was reset?
 
Then you are getting misfires enough to trip the reset on the trip. Maybe time to do some data logging with FORScan?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Need a laptop for FORSCAN right? Weird that I had over 70 trips without a reset until I changed the equation in the misfire events?
 
SHOnUup said:
On way from driving range, putt putt, and go karts we had the a/c on as ambient was a sticky 85*(IAT2 109*). With a/c on, light throttle on the e-way at 70 was giving a +3 kr! Turn off a/c and kr was complete opposite going right to -3.5? Can the a/c have that much affect?
Click to expand...
Are both of your knock sensor wires routed away from the engine block or otherwise separated?  A/C does put a good electrical load on, may cause vibration as well.
SHOnUup said:
Volts gauge at 13.7 for last couple days. Down from the normal 14.3?
Click to expand...
With car off or started?  Idling or Driving?  Accessories on or off?  If during driving, then replacement may be due.  Is the battery still OEM?
 
Have the driver side wires wrapped and away from block but not passenger side.

13.7 while driving with radio on as only accessory and nothing being charged, well the obdlink.  Battery is a Motorcraft. We bought lightly used and battery has the dealerships name on a piece of masking tape on it. Motorcraft Max
 
I wouldn't worry about it right now.  If the dealership installed the battery, which it looks like it did, you may also have the 7 year warranty with it.  Keep a pic for future reference, but a good question to ask them also.
 
SHOdded said:
I wouldn't worry about it right now.  If the dealership installed the battery, which it looks like it did, you may also have the 7 year warranty with it.  Keep a pic for future reference, but a good question to ask them also.
Click to expand...
Definitely building a list. Trying to convince the worrier(wife), to drop the extended(outrageously priced)warranty as I just don't want to have to duck and dodge having it tuned. I'd rather fix stuff on the run instead of pay for something we might not use.
 
SHOnUup said:
SHOdded said:
I wouldn't worry about it right now.  If the dealership installed the battery, which it looks like it did, you may also have the 7 year warranty with it.  Keep a pic for future reference, but a good question to ask them also.
Click to expand...
Definitely building a list. Trying to convince the worrier(wife), to drop the extended(outrageously priced)warranty as I just don't want to have to duck Andrew dodge having it tuned. I'd rather fix stuff on the run instead of pay for something we might not use.
Click to expand...
My personal opinion is that is a terrible idea. Lots of very expensive items to fix on these vehicles. On my ST the first failure cost almost 3x the price of the warranty. That car isnt nearly as advanced as the SHO. Ford has almost 30 recalls right now so I'd consider the likelihood high that you will get your moneys worth.
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
SHOnUup said:
SHOdded said:
I wouldn't worry about it right now.  If the dealership installed the battery, which it looks like it did, you may also have the 7 year warranty with it.  Keep a pic for future reference, but a good question to ask them also.
Click to expand...
Definitely building a list. Trying to convince the worrier(wife), to drop the extended(outrageously priced)warranty as I just don't want to have to duck Andrew dodge having it tuned. I'd rather fix stuff on the run instead of pay for something we might not use.
Click to expand...
My personal opinion is that is a terrible idea. Lots of very expensive items to fix on these vehicles. On my ST the first failure cost almost 3x the price of the warranty. That car isnt nearly as advanced as the SHO. Ford has almost 30 recalls right now so I'd consider the likelihood high that you will get your moneys worth.
Click to expand...
Appreciate the opinion. With my luck we'd drop the coverage and the front end would fall apart.;D
 
SHOnUup said:
Have the driver side wires wrapped and away from block but not passenger side.

13.7 while driving with radio on as only accessory and nothing being charged, well the obdlink.  Battery is a Motorcraft. We bought lightly used and battery has the dealerships name on a piece of masking tape on it. Motorcraft Max
Click to expand...

Starter+battery+alternator form a circle of life.  If one messes up enough it can kill all 3 in short order so don't skip over a few easy checks now.

How has the weather been?  Alternators will put out less power the hotter they get.  13-14.5v is considered "normal" output for an alternator.  It will vary with temperature, rpm, and load.  Press the start button twice (without foot on the brake) and see what it reads.  12.6 is perfect but since other stuff is running in the car already it probably won't read that.  Start the car with the lights and everything off and see what it reads at idle.  Turn on everything you can think of, lights, ac max cool, hazards, heated seats, rear defroster and check voltage.  Bring the rpm's up a little and check the voltage.

If at any time the voltage drops under the first voltage you saw the alternator isn't doing its job and you are taking power off the battery.  The battery's "only" job is to start the car.  Starter+battery+alternator form a circle of life.  If one messes up enough it can kill all 3 in short order so don't skip over a few easy checks now.
 
After letting it sit for almost 2 days must have changed its attitude, lol. Suspecting the woman sitting with accessories on for extended period at her monthly class for work. She says no, but it was a weird no...lol
Steady 14.3 again.
 
A quick pic, finally got the PTU temp working!
dcb33cb48c1fc39aedcd2241e2927ce1.jpg



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