Tracked the SHO

[Half-Fast]

I instruct with SCCA's PDX (Performance Driving Xperiance) program.  We had our annual instructor clinic where we work with new instructors to see if they have what it takes.  I couldn't use my race car because it's just too loud, so I instructed my student in the SHO. 

I tried it in sport mode, and full traction control on. Didn't try "nannies off" though.  Wish I had. 

It handled like I would expect a fat pig like it is to handle.  Lots of push, a good bit of body lean (but less than I expected), and clearly a rocket on the straights.  The brakes did better than I expected, which was a surprise.  In one of the track sessions I was supposed to play an over driving novice, missing the correct lines, generally over driving the corners to see how the student instructors would handle it.  I have to say, even in sport mode, it's really hard to get that car to misbehave.  The nannies did a great job of overcoming my pushing it hard... real hard...

One issue that did come up is transmission temp.  I have dashcommand, and put up a few gauges to monitor the important stuff (and boost ).  After that session where I was pushing it hard, the trans temp came up to an uncomfortable level.  I would say if you want to track your SHO, an aux trans cooler wouldn't be a bad idea. 

I may have some video, if I do I will post a link to it. I had the dashcam running, but I may have overwritten the files because I forgot to turn it off when I came in.  Might have a couple of hours of paddock action

Pic attached

 

[SHOdded]

Does your SHO have the Perf Pkg?  That would have the coolers already in place.  And enable you to truly turn the nannies off.  IDK if changing the asbuilt data on a nonPP will add that feature tho.

Need coilovers

 

[Brucelinc]

Great post and  cool pic!  What level of transmission temps did you see?

 

[Half-Fast]

Does your SHO have the Perf Pkg?  That would have the coolers already in place.  And enable you to truly turn the nannies off.  IDK if changing the asbuilt data on a nonPP will add that feature tho.

Yes, it's a PP, and yes it does have a cooler, but it's not up to the task when it comes to running on a road course.  Not at all surprised really.

Need coilovers

If it was going to be tracked more, ya, lots more would be done. I do though like the nice ride and it's my daily driver. 

Great post and  cool pic!  What level of transmission temps did you see?

I am guessing it got to about 220 before I brought it in. 

 

[ajpturbo]

220 is barely above normal operating temp...i thought the bypass valve for the cooler doesnt even open until close to 200...alternatively if the trans fluid temp was 150 im not even sure if thats warm enough to be in the sweet spot of trans fluid temps


In fairness how many 45k cars are up to the task of hot lapping a road course?...i wouldnt want it to be track ready...kind of like when they run the slalom in minivans and trucks in motorweek lol who cares...i juts dont see the fun in taking the 4400lb sho on the track ...i guess if its all you have then i could see it

 

[Half-Fast]

220 is barely above normal operating temp...i thought the bypass valve for the cooler doesnt even open until close to 200...alternatively if the trans fluid temp was 150 im not even sure if thats warm enough to be in the sweet spot of trans fluid temps

Fair enough.  I am open to learning more.  I based my decision on where to set the redline on the gauge on what this guy says http://transmissionrepairguy.com/transmission-overheating/  He could be wrong of course, but his numbers seem to jive with what others have said according to the internets. 

In summary, the link says under 175 is fine, 175 and over you start to shorten the life of the fluid.  Over 220, varnish starts to form, over 240 and seals start to harden, it gets worse from there.  For reference, the temp was 150-154 at 60 mph for the 44 mile trip home.  Ambient temp was in the 60's, and on hills it would go up a bit, then drop back down after the mountain.

In fairness how many 45k cars are up to the task of hot lapping a road course?...i wouldnt want it to be track ready...kind of like when they run the slalom in minivans and trucks in motorweek lol who cares...i juts dont see the fun in taking the 4400lb sho on the track ...i guess if its all you have then i could see it

As an instructor, tracking what you drive is a fantastic way to learn what your car will do in an extreme situation.  This translates to the street and may help you get out of a tight situation as you will know what to expect.  Is anyone going to go out and buy a SHO for track days, not likely, and not my choice either.  I'd say that the guy who use to track his Tercel was told the same thing (until he drove the piss out of it and surprised everyone).  I much prefer to race my Honda Accord.. Running an uncommon car fast is a reward of it's own. 

 

[SHOdded]

The bypass (or trans TStat) opens earlier on the PP than on the non-PP vehicles, will have to look back at the HOWTO threads for exact numbers.  I would also run a higher quality fluid like Amsoil (or even just change the fluid before/after sessions w Motorcraft) for road courses as a workaround.

 

[FoMoCoSHO]

I can tell you on my nonPP SHO anything north of 220 would cause the trans to misbehave everytime. Hard shifts, missed shifts, etc.

With PP the trans never gets near that temperature.

 

[Gjkrisa]

I'd love to track my car reason one reason I picked it was just how it kept gripping the harder I turned and very little body roll.

But I have no track near by have to go 400 miles to do that in Which wife won't let me. It would be another hour to drop her off with friends at the mall and then she wouldn't be there long enough for me to drive the track. 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Half-Fast]

The bypass (or trans TStat) opens earlier on the PP than on the non-PP vehicles, will have to look back at the HOWTO threads for exact numbers.  I would also run a higher quality fluid like Amsoil (or even just change the fluid before/after sessions w Motorcraft) for road courses as a workaround.

A decent work around, but nothing wrong with an aux cooler.  Not hard to install either.  If I didn't have a real track car, it might be something I would do.


I mentioned it only because there may be a few others out there who may be interested in it, and I thought I would drop an anecdotal experience on them. 

 

[donky4444]

This is great to hear.  I'm considering taking mine to a DE day with some friends that run their Porsche's just to have some fun.  I have a 2014 PP.  I do have a few questions for you though:

1. did you run the stock brake set up, pads, rotors and fulid

2. did you run in full auto or paddle shift

I know we had a member that auto crossed his and he ran some racing pads but I can't recall what brand he ran.  I know they offered a few different versions for our car based on how hard you planned on pushing and they differed based on operating temp range.

Thanks in advance

 

[Half-Fast]

This is great to hear.  I'm considering taking mine to a DE day with some friends that run their Porsche's just to have some fun.  I have a 2014 PP.  I do have a few questions for you though:

1. did you run the stock brake set up, pads, rotors and fulid

I ran stock fluid and OEM pads.  I didn't push it in the braking zones all that hard, but it did do better than I expected for a fat pig of a car.  I would highly recommend having the system flushed with fresh fluid, and pads should have more than 50% life left on them, the more the better. 

2. did you run in full auto or paddle shift

I used the paddle shift.  Having the trans auto downshift in the middle of the turn unsettles the car, and near the limit that could be a bad thing.  The track I was on, is pretty slow as tracks go, I was able to do the entire track in 3rd and 4th, only needing 4th for a little bit on the straights. 

I know we had a member that auto crossed his and he ran some racing pads but I can't recall what brand he ran.  I know they offered a few different versions for our car based on how hard you planned on pushing and they differed based on operating temp range.

I know Hawk makes a few heavy service pads, but I am not sure if they are better or worse than the PP pads.  The problem with the heavy service pads is they work great when hot, but are the suxor on the street when temps aren't in their "butter zone".  You will destroy rotors if you use race pads on the street.

Thanks in advance

Anytime.  I am glad to answer any questions anyone has.  I put myself in the right seat of a novice driver and teach them how to go fast because I want to see more people out there on track having fun. My Sunday student was a first timer with a 750hp Z06, and he wanted to use all of it.  Quite a ride...

 

[lamrith]

What area of the country are you in?  Sounds like a great program.  I know I am still trying to learn how to set this car up into a corner and that sort of thing would be helpful.  It is my 1st AWD it just handles differently and really feels like it wants to plow like a FWD car.  Being my DD and on public I have been very reserved in pushing it.  my old stsv felt like it cornered much better and was same curb weight so no spring chicken, but it just carved into a corner.  Thoughts?  Brake earlier so can accelerate into the corner and get the nose pulling?

Anytime.  I am glad to answer any questions anyone has.  I put myself in the right seat of a novice driver and teach them how to go fast because I want to see more people out there on track having fun. My Sunday student was a first timer with a 750hp Z06, and he wanted to use all of it.  Quite a ride...

Why have it if you are not going to use it..??
Boost, corner, wet, crunch.

 

[Half-Fast]

What area of the country are you in?  Sounds like a great program.  I know I am still trying to learn how to set this car up into a corner and that sort of thing would be helpful.  It is my 1st AWD it just handles differently and really feels like it wants to plow like a FWD car.  Being my DD and on public I have been very reserved in pushing it.  my old stsv felt like it cornered much better and was same curb weight so no spring chicken, but it just carved into a corner.  Thoughts?  Brake earlier so can accelerate into the corner and get the nose pulling?

I am in NoVa.  I usually instruct at Summit Point in Wv.  They do have this type of program all over though.  Here is a link to a lap at Summit's Shenandoah circuit.  https://youtu.be/CT7CrXUiwaw  Sorry about having no sound.  I used my dashcam and forgot I had muted the mic... (derp).

All stock vehicles these days plow.  The designers feel it's "safer".  Most people now can't handle any over steer, so they really are not far off.  There are several tricks to get a FWD/AWD car to turn.  Driving style is part of it, but something as simple as adding air to the rear tires can help, and air is free.  The rest of the mods cost $$.  Sway bars, springs, shocks all play a part.  Front end alignment is also a big factor. 

That said, for a track day in your street car, unless you have kidneys of steel, upping spring rates is painful. 

 

[metroplex]

The PP aux cooler looks about the same capacity/size as the stock aux cooler, its just that it adds a second cooler. They could have used a better cooler in the first place like on the trucks (stacked plate).

 

[donky4444]

This is great to hear.  I'm considering taking mine to a DE day with some friends that run their Porsche's just to have some fun.  I have a 2014 PP.  I do have a few questions for you though:

1. did you run the stock brake set up, pads, rotors and fulid

I ran stock fluid and OEM pads.  I didn't push it in the braking zones all that hard, but it did do better than I expected for a fat pig of a car.  I would highly recommend having the system flushed with fresh fluid, and pads should have more than 50% life left on them, the more the better. 

2. did you run in full auto or paddle shift

I used the paddle shift.  Having the trans auto downshift in the middle of the turn unsettles the car, and near the limit that could be a bad thing.  The track I was on, is pretty slow as tracks go, I was able to do the entire track in 3rd and 4th, only needing 4th for a little bit on the straights. 

I know we had a member that auto crossed his and he ran some racing pads but I can't recall what brand he ran.  I know they offered a few different versions for our car based on how hard you planned on pushing and they differed based on operating temp range.

I know Hawk makes a few heavy service pads, but I am not sure if they are better or worse than the PP pads.  The problem with the heavy service pads is they work great when hot, but are the suxor on the street when temps aren't in their "butter zone".  You will destroy rotors if you use race pads on the street.

Thanks in advance

Anytime.  I am glad to answer any questions anyone has.  I put myself in the right seat of a novice driver and teach them how to go fast because I want to see more people out there on track having fun. My Sunday student was a first timer with a 750hp Z06, and he wanted to use all of it.  Quite a ride...

Thank you for the tips.  If I do track it I plan on doing a brake fluid flush and fill with high temp fluid.  I also plan on getting a new set of rotors to go along with track pads and just use them for the track and then revert back to normal set up for the street.  The track I would be going to is Grattan Raceway in Michigan which has a pretty long straight that ends at a turn that is better than 90* so it's pretty tough on brakes.  If I do it then it will be mid June so I need to get working on my set up soon.

 

[Half-Fast]

220 is barely above normal operating temp...i thought the bypass valve for the cooler doesnt even open until close to 200...alternatively if the trans fluid temp was 150 im not even sure if thats warm enough to be in the sweet spot of trans fluid temps

Fair enough.  I am open to learning more.  I based my decision on where to set the redline on the gauge on what this guy says http://transmissionrepairguy.com/transmission-overheating/  He could be wrong of course, but his numbers seem to jive with what others have said according to the internets. 

In summary, the link says under 175 is fine, 175 and over you start to shorten the life of the fluid.  Over 220, varnish starts to form, over 240 and seals start to harden, it gets worse from there.  For reference, the temp was 150-154 at 60 mph for the 44 mile trip home.  Ambient temp was in the 60's, and on hills it would go up a bit, then drop back down after the mountain.

In fairness how many 45k cars are up to the task of hot lapping a road course?...i wouldnt want it to be track ready...kind of like when they run the slalom in minivans and trucks in motorweek lol who cares...i juts dont see the fun in taking the 4400lb sho on the track ...i guess if its all you have then i could see it

As an instructor, tracking what you drive is a fantastic way to learn what your car will do in an extreme situation.  This translates to the street and may help you get out of a tight situation as you will know what to expect.  Is anyone going to go out and buy a SHO for track days, not likely, and not my choice either.  I'd say that the guy who use to track his Tercel was told the same thing (until he drove the piss out of it and surprised everyone).  I much prefer to race my Honda Accord.. Running an uncommon car fast is a reward of it's own.

Still hoping to get your feed back on this Aj... 

 

[SHOdded]

Might want to PM him, he's keeping pretty busy.

 

[Half-Fast]

Might want to PM him, he's keeping pretty busy.

Did crickets

 

[ajpturbo]

You mention you have all stock fluids...i cant think of a scenario why anyone would take their car on a track unless they wanted to document at what point failures or symptoms of an abused car.

I would call amsoil and ask if the temps you are seeing is a problem...and you might want to consider using a real synthetic fluid such as amsoil signature series...group iv oils are completely different and seemingly indestructible so i would think amsoils signature series atf 220 is nothing

Maybe you should get some good oil in the trans engine and ptu and the temps may not even get that high