Ok. Ps.... the soapy bubble thing isn't gonna work because it's sucking in the throttle body from the intake. So it would just suck it into the motor. That only works for air pushing out. Which it isn't gonna do unless your engine is under load and making boost. Just FYI. Where are you located??
Vacuum/Boost Leak - Need HELP!
- Thread starter derfdog15
- Start date
Sooo I had a similar issue, but it was when my vacuum line popped off charge pipe right next to where the front BOV is.
I would boost for a second, then it would just drop off...
SOUNDS like there is a vacuum line off somewhere... if it was a leak I would think your WGDC would be maxed out trying to achieve boost...
I would check all the vacuum lines, and yes, when the vacuum line pops off it sounds like air rushing out.
I would boost for a second, then it would just drop off...
SOUNDS like there is a vacuum line off somewhere... if it was a leak I would think your WGDC would be maxed out trying to achieve boost...
I would check all the vacuum lines, and yes, when the vacuum line pops off it sounds like air rushing out.
I can't find any lines that are off, i've checked a whole lot of times :/
Good to know on the soap, but yeah atleast it'll be clean
I ran at the same track before without issues. DA was like 600? Very mild change in elevation but not much.
I'm currently in the midwest, Columbus, IN
Also the issue happened at the track and is persisting. So not just a track condition type of thing.
Good to know on the soap, but yeah atleast it'll be clean
I ran at the same track before without issues. DA was like 600? Very mild change in elevation but not much.
I'm currently in the midwest, Columbus, IN
Also the issue happened at the track and is persisting. So not just a track condition type of thing.
I re-read the post, didn't realize AJP noted your wastegate duty cycle was 90% and you were making 5psi.....
IIRC, with the wastegate on the charge pipe, if the springs fail for some reason, it can get stuck open.
Ideally, if you have someone to check with you, you could hold the brakes down hard and put a small load on the engine. This might provide you with enough boost leak noise to assist in pin pointing.
I would think with that much pressure loss you are looking at either the wastegate failure, or one of the charge pipes came loose from its coupler. It may not be visually obvious as when the car is off there is no pressure, so you may need to use the Braille method to feel for loose clamps or pipes on the back side of the engine.
ALSO, they do sell boost leak kits, you plug up the charge pipe and it has a schrader vale on one side... you add pressure with a pump until you hear the leak and locate it.
http://turboboostleaktesters.com
Keep us posted!!
IIRC, with the wastegate on the charge pipe, if the springs fail for some reason, it can get stuck open.
Ideally, if you have someone to check with you, you could hold the brakes down hard and put a small load on the engine. This might provide you with enough boost leak noise to assist in pin pointing.
I would think with that much pressure loss you are looking at either the wastegate failure, or one of the charge pipes came loose from its coupler. It may not be visually obvious as when the car is off there is no pressure, so you may need to use the Braille method to feel for loose clamps or pipes on the back side of the engine.
ALSO, they do sell boost leak kits, you plug up the charge pipe and it has a schrader vale on one side... you add pressure with a pump until you hear the leak and locate it.
http://turboboostleaktesters.com
Keep us posted!!
Check to see if the TTurbocharger (Boost Solenoid)actuator is faulty,sticking or if the connector came loose. Z 9K378
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=StSqmNhGp52eEoz9txJjsg%3d%3d&id=410445064&m=2&search=true&year=2013&make=Ford&model=Taurus
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=StSqmNhGp52eEoz9txJjsg%3d%3d&id=410445064&m=2&search=true&year=2013&make=Ford&model=Taurus
I'm bankin on a loose chargepipe near the rear turbo. Sabtaj1 is kind enough to be sending out a homemade boost leak checking device. I checked all the lines in the area Z circled and didn't see any issues. Brad was also kind enough to send me an E20 tune for my mods but stock bov and no boost regulator so if I can't find anything I'll go to stock charge pipes and load that up and see.
Found a temp solution for you if one of the charge pipes has failed...
In all honesty, any luck?
In all honesty, any luck?
StealBlueSho said:Found a temp solution for you if one of the charge pipes has failed...
In all honesty, any luck?
LOL! We swapped the noisemaker pipe, and stock BOV pipes back on yesterday. Brad sent me a revision to the tune to turn stock BOVs back on, and using throttle to control boost again. Loaded that up, and it still isn't making full boost.
When we installed the hotpipes, the intake side connection on the rear turbo was extremely loose, which was weird since I had never messed around in that area. I am wondering if that connection, or the intake side front turbo connection is loose. The only part of the EPP hotpipes still on the car, right now, is the silicone coupler from intercooler to front turbo. I will check that piece as well. I left the stock BOV's VTA but didnt seem to have issue. I can say the noise level for stock BOV VTA is MUCH MUCH quieter than the TiAL.
At this point, if there are no loose connections at the turbos, then it may still be a vacuum line issue. I am going to clean up/delete my additions to the vacuum routing up top to rule that out. I'll double check the reference lines on the turbo wastegates as well, as that could be a likely culprit.
I feel as if the boost solenoid had failed, there would be a code, but there are none. This makes me think it is a loose/missing connection somewhere, rather than a faulty solenoid/sensor. Especially at 15K miles on the car. Hoping we can get it sorted out this afternoon, but we shall see.
The wastegate solenoid seem to be working, they were trying their damnedest to achieve commanded boost and eventually shut it down when the underboost timer was hit
Are you sure if you have someones head in the engine and someone brake boosting you cant hear the air?.
I dont think a 1/4" vac line will bleed the boost you are losing.
Again I wouldn't waste your time looking at turbo inlet piping, you can run without those pipes completely and it wont affect boost
Split charge piping? Cracked intercooler or bad coupling from compressor outlet to intake manifold
Are you sure if you have someones head in the engine and someone brake boosting you cant hear the air?.
I dont think a 1/4" vac line will bleed the boost you are losing.
Again I wouldn't waste your time looking at turbo inlet piping, you can run without those pipes completely and it wont affect boost
Split charge piping? Cracked intercooler or bad coupling from compressor outlet to intake manifold
AJP turbo said:
I will re-try brake boosting and have my dad listen in the engine bay. The front turbo connection I mention that was not changed, is between turbo and intercooler. As for the vacuum lines, I agree that it shouldn't cause this much of a loss of boost, but have seen cars do weird things due to small vacuum leaks. The lines I am mainly concerned of are the reference to the actual turbo wastegates. If that is disconnected, I could see one/both turbos trying to work on spring pressure.
hawkeye93 said:
You get that blasphemy out of here, I'm already scared as hell why its doing this, don't need a $500 dollar OE turbo to be the issue. There was a small amount of oil on the coupler from the rear turbo but I assume its normal, since it didn't seem like much.
Frozen Blue
New member
derfdog15 said:
With an IWG if you were leaking from the EBC to the wastegates you would overboost. There wouldn't be any boost to open the wastegates. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
If all of your lines are hooked up properly from the manifold to the EBC to the turbos, see if there is anyone local you can borrow an EBC from for a quick test. If you build boost after you swap it in there's your answer. I assume all Ecoboosts share the same 3-port. Maybe someone else can confirm?
derfdog15 said:
I also have oil residue on the rear turbo inlet.
Silly question, under load when it's trying to build boost... it doesn't sound like a super charger does it? High pitch whine?
Frozen Blue said:
It doesnt matter if the wastegate is internal or external but rather if the boost solenoid is "normally open" or " normally closed"
There are 2 main types of solenoids...normally open and normally closed
Ours are normally open type...thats why you overboost if that line to the solenoid pops off
At 0% duty all the air is going through the solenoid because its open type and that opens the gate to keep boost low
If you have FORSCAN you can Definitely monitor for codes and certainly more reliable than Torque or any other gadgets. Z
I'm still Banking on the Solenoid-Wastegate as mentioned on my previous post above especially if your seeing only 5-psi of Boost,best of luck to ya. Z
http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/bl3z9k378a/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/fuel-system-cat/turbo-charger-scat/?part_name=solenoid
I'm still Banking on the Solenoid-Wastegate as mentioned on my previous post above especially if your seeing only 5-psi of Boost,best of luck to ya. Z
http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/bl3z9k378a/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/fuel-system-cat/turbo-charger-scat/?part_name=solenoid
StealBlueSho said:
No whine that I can notice.Sounds normal in the car under load, just doesn't have the power. I don't think the intercooler is the issue as there is no noise from that area either.
Hopefully I can figure something out tonight, who knows...
ZSHO said:If you have FORSCAN you can Definitely monitor for codes and certainly more reliable than Torque or any other gadgets. Z
I'm still Banking on the Solenoid as mentioned on my previous post above especially if your seeing 5-psi of Boost,best of luck to ya. Z
http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/bl3z9k378a/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/fuel-system-cat/turbo-charger-scat/?part_name=solenoid
I would think my X4 is as reliable or better than FORSCAN (since its a direct connection to the OBDII port, no bluetooth OBDII dongles or anything like that). And as AJP said, car makes up to 10-11 PSI, and tapers off. As such, doesn't seem like the solenoid, along with the lack of codes, but I could be wrong.
Anyway I can diagnost the solenoid without codes, like pulling one of the lines off to see if I make boost or something like that?
Frozen Blue
New member
I would definitely not do that. These little turbos spool to fast to try and control boost with your foot.