Wastegate control solenoid operation

J

jbeez

New member
I believe this uses a 2pin AMP ev1 style connector and its PWM controlled. Does anyone know the voltage range on it? Does the ecu basically vary the +voltage lead?

Ie full 12-14v would tell it to send all the boosted input air to the wastegates forcing them full open to dump the boost?

Im trying to figure out a meth failsafe, but i dont think i can safely feed this module 12v without it backfeeding to the ecu, and I wouldnt want to put a diode in the path and cause a voltage drop.

Option two so far is plumbing a boost solenoid parallel to the oem unit, hell i could probably buy a second factory unit

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Thanks Z, that's .... a ton of information in that whole document. But pertaining to pg162 around the solenoid, the wording is a little confusing.

"A high pressure on the wastegate actuator's diaphragm tends to open the wastegate.
The solenoid valve normally connects compressor out pressure (boost) to the wastegate actuator's diaphragm, resulting in the regulation of maximum boost pressure (to a constant value). Using the wastegate vent solenoid to partially vent (reduce) that control pressure increases the regulated maximum boost. "

This sounds like, if I route boost to the input of the wastegate, it opens the wastegate.  Is that true?

Also it seems like that pierburg unit just either gets turned on or off, not like partial voltages.

the left side of the wastegate solenoid has a single hose coming into it, and its from the hot pipe right next to it, so obviously pressurized/boosted air entering there.  The right side has two hoses. Is each hose going directly to a wastegate?

Is that right side of the pierburg solenoid just pass through between the two wastegates 100% of the time? Like does it just act like an open tee all the time or will those ever be separated?  Trying to figure out how I would plumb a second solenoid in parallel that I can control as a failsafe for a meth system. Basically a fault in the meth system would open the second solenoid fully to dump all the boosts.

Does anyone have a spare solenoid they can test functionality with? IE apply 12v see if it allows full blowthrough from the left to the ports on the right and if those two right ports are always pass through energized or not?

Found this page in German too, its a little rough... http://www.ruddies-berlin.de/si0044.htm  can page search for 1287013003 and it will bring you right to the solenoid.  Anyone have something like this in english?
 
If anyone was interested, found a product catalog, https://mam.rheinmetall-automotive.com/mc/epaper?guid=15133ebf8038f22c

The old Pierburg P/N is 7.02087.03 and the new P/N is 7.02087.05.0
 
OK, here's my theory in a horrible picture chop up. There may be 2 ways to do what I want, #1 may be to just ground out the oem solenoid in the event of a meth failsafe situation. #2 is in the attached picture, you leave the oem solenoid untouched.

Parts, you need a small section of vacuum hose to link port 3 of oem solenoid with port 1 of the second solenoid. You need a pigtail to wire it for power. You need a vacuum tee to tee the boost reference input to go to both solenoids, and a second solenoid.

basically adding another pierburg solenoid without powering it will just act as a passthrough and do nothing, but as soon as you energize it, it will take the boost fed into port "2" and pass it along to port3 the wastegates instead of passing whatever the first solenoid is doing through to the wastegates.

So you'd probably ground switch this with a relay and trigger off of.... low tank level?  Maybe something else? I'd imagine more can go wrong besides just having a low tank level. But the neat thing is you can pickup additional failsafe items, like flow modules or whatever you want and just wire them to have a trigger short this second solenoid to ground and it should dump boost.
 
I think i can accomplish the same using a relay that interrupts the 12v, simulating a blown fuse. It appears the factory engineered solution fails in a safe manner, ie if this module loses power that it operates at low/no boost state until you fix it, probably a better option than all the extra plumbing

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