Don't know the answer for sure but I'm going to take a shot at saying that the "dirty oil" results from the oil breaking down. The bad stuff the engine produces is broken down oil so if it comes out clean it isn't breaking down.mjhpadi said:Now that would really bother me...if an oil still looks clean after 5K miles, it would put up a red flag for me that it's not doing a good job of absorbing the bad stuff produced by the engine. I know all the oils I have used over the past 15 years look really dirty after 3K miles...which, by my thinking indicates that they are removing the nasty stuff from the engine. Maybe if someone explains why an oil would still look clean after 5K miles, I would be more comfortable with it.Tomc612 said:I use amsoil 5w30 every 5k. Still very clean when I drain. ^-^
IHeartGroceries said:It contributes heavily to viscosity losses. Really, shearing may not be the correct terminology. Shearing occurs from VI modifiers breaking down over time, through regular use. Fuel dilution is exactly as it sounds - oil diluted with gasoline. It's the same effect, but slightly different causes.
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crash712us said:Royal purple, motorcraft oil filter.
This seems to be the case for me. At every startup I would get a very faint and quick "chatter ", now that I switched to fram ultra I have not heard it. And yes, I do listen for it on every startup.SHOdded said:MC filters are among the best for performance/price. One of the few exceptions is in glock-coma's case, where (I think) he finds a Fram filter to run better than the MC.
That magnetic drain plug just went on the short list. Sounds like a good thing to be able to monitor.ZSHO said:For me its the MC-FL500S all the way with a magnetic oil drain plug to collect any metal shavings or particles thats being distributed.
breeves002 said:I use semi-synthetic Motorcraft 5w-20 (what Ford puts in) and a motorcraft filter (FL400S for my motor, FL500S for 2010+) every 6k miles or 6 months. I think its important to use the right weight oil so the VCT doesn't get messed up. Also important to change the oil and filter enough to keep the cam phasers from getting clogged.
In my 2000 Sable I used Mobil 1 High Milage 5w-30 and a FL820S Filter. That car had 140k on it when I sold it though.
I'm using pennzoil Plat not sure what weight whatever says in my manual. Should I be using 30? It performs the same or better then mobil1 in the cold start department so far. I did just receive my test kit in mail will my ford dealer fill the bottle for me ?thatsmrgimp2u said:Anyone using pennzoil platinum? A lot of the euro guys have been using that and amsoil for their DI cars with great results. Mobil-1 is awesome in many cars but it sheers a lot in my current DI car, so most avoid it. I would be very curious to see an oil analysis for mobil-1 on the eco motors. If all is well with 5w-30 penz platinum is a great bang for your buck oil. I used to buy amsoil but its hard to come by around here and expensive by comparison.
I couldn't Agree more.BiGMaC said:Interesting Vid...
I'm a fan of Amsoil Signature synthetic engine oil (5W20)... All synthetics seen to lubricate and flow well. All are pretty good. My choice was base on the three areas where Amsoil simply eclipse the others in testing: (1) extremely low NOACK volatility rating, which is very important in GDI with turbo, (2) the off the scale resistance to high temp shear, and (3) the Amsoil synthetic also has the lowest cold cranking viscosity despite best high temp lubrication, so it circulates well very early. Yep I do pay more...my car is worth it to me and I change oil and filter every 4-5K miles despite Amsoil's claim that it can go as much as 20K.
FPO said:I couldn't Agree more.BiGMaC said:Interesting Vid...
I'm a fan of Amsoil Signature synthetic engine oil (5W20)... All synthetics seen to lubricate and flow well. All are pretty good. My choice was base on the three areas where Amsoil simply eclipse the others in testing: (1) extremely low NOACK volatility rating, which is very important in GDI with turbo, (2) the off the scale resistance to high temp shear, and (3) the Amsoil synthetic also has the lowest cold cranking viscosity despite best high temp lubrication, so it circulates well very early. Yep I do pay more...my car is worth it to me and I change oil and filter every 4-5K miles despite Amsoil's claim that it can go as much as 20K.
I know no matter what oil I use I will not get the 1 year 20,000 mile oil change interval that I get on my Mustang Gt, but I still want to use premium oils in the Explorer.
I am going to do some oil analysis to see Exactly how many miles I need to change the oil. There is not a lot that can be done, Besides choosing oils that Resist the effects of fuel dilution.
I may use this oil next go round
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-10w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=176&zo=1667299
It has a 5.3 NOACK Volatility,
FPO said:Does the SHO call for a 20 weight oil?
My explorer calls for a 30
BiGMaC said:I would never recommend using other than the recommended oil weight called for by the manufacturer... but the Amsoil Signature synthetic 5W20 has a 2.7 NOACK volatility and the 5W30 has a 3.1
FPO said:BiGMaC said:I would never recommend using other than the recommended oil weight called for by the manufacturer... but the Amsoil Signature synthetic 5W20 has a 2.7 NOACK volatility and the 5W30 has a 3.1
you mean 6.3 -----> http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-20-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=10049&&zo=1667299
and
7.5 ? -----> http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-5w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?GroupID=174&zo=1667299