Wheel options (other than TSW?)

Staggered works (at least on the Flex).  My 22x9 and 22x10 setup uses 265/35-22's all around.  The extra width in the rear compensates for the approximately 15mm wider fenders back there compared with the front, based off my measurements before I had my wheels made.  Mine are +37 all around btw.

For those talking about TSW 20x8.5 wheels, I am almost 100% certain it isn't +45, it is +40 instead.  That 5mm is the difference between scraping against the strut, and not.  :)  At least for the calculations I did for Flexi Flexes uh the Flex, my math made a 20x8.5 +40 SO close to the strut that variances in sidewall design such as a slightly oversized tire could possibly strike the strut.



 
I just saw a Honda Minivan with my wheels LOL.

Sent from a mobile, I think.

 
My ASA wheels inside fit very close to the brake calipers.  TireRack told me I might need a 3mm spacer, but it turned out to not be necessary, even when I went to new pads/rotors.

Struts and mounting brackets for them can also pose issues. On my G8's I thought it would be a cheap idea to use one of my 17" GTO take off wheel/tire for a spare.  Both had the same stock offset of 48.  However the rim of the GTO wheel hit the strut mount.  Then I tested a 17" aftermarket 40 offset wheel and it cleared just fine.  So one can have issues for various reasons.

As for TSW Nurburgrings,  I just checked the website for Ford bp wheels.

All 8.5" wide wheels are 40 or 20 offset.  Latter not workable.
All 9.0" wide wheels are 32 offset
All 9.5" wide wheels are 41 offset
20 x 10" - 40 offset
20 x 10.5" -45 offset
All 21"  45 offset
NO 22" shown as available in Nurburgring

Other TSW wheels may have different offsets for specific diameter and width. Check TSW site to be sure.  All RF (RotoForged) TSW wheels also show weight per size.
 
Yeah, judging by some off-the-cuff math, you'd be 1/2" (12mm) wider than my 22x10 +37 with a 20x8.5 +20.  That would definitely be pushing the envelope, but I bet it would look cool as heck if you clear.  Camber could be played with a tiny bit to get it perfect if things got tricky though.

So, to redrill wheels, all that is done is they take the existing hole and drill it out, then install an insert.  This insert is then the appropriate bolt pattern.  Probably wouldn't' work on wheels with tiny "tuner style" lug nut requirements.

Another option is the wobble nut, which is known as the PCD variation lugnut.  Some brands have even passed TUV cert, and are considered "safe".  It is another option as long as you use good centric rings. 


edit:  I lifted this off the G35 guys

112-114_3-boltpattern.jpg
  the magenta is 112, and blue is 114.3.  Helps visualize a bit.
 
I looked at my Flex rear wheels.  The top of the rim is about 1/2" inside the top of the outside fender lip.  So 20 offset in 8.5" would work on back.. 
 
Wanted to add to this, now that I've got my alignment done and the rears cambered properly, the wheel I've chosen in the rear 22x10 +37 is lip flush to the wheel well at least at the front of the wheel wells.  Since the Flex narrows from rear to front, it is hard to judge and therefore flush up because the wheel and the wheel well are not parallel.  The wheel is more or less straight but the wheel well is angled in a tiny bit.  Makes the rear of the wheel wells sink the wheel in, and the front poke them out.  I think my +37 is a compromise between the two, with the front and rear showing a tiny bit of lip at the front of the wheel wells, and tucking a bit at the rear of them.

Given that, I think a +20 8.5" setup might poke a tiny bit, but only on the tire.  I was using 255/45-20's there but that's a normal size for both the SHO and the Flex.  Just looking at this link,

http://www.willtheyfit.com/ 

You can see it better.  I think it would work.  It appears a 20x10 +40 (rear fitment for TSW Nur for a couple folks here) is basically identical in poke compared to a 20x8.5 +20.  Very interesting how that works out!
 
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