Wrapping the OEM intake
- Thread starter TopherSho
- Start date
FearlessAZ
New member
AJP turbo said:
You saw some logs from when my scoop was screwed up vs when it got replaced. That inlet makes a huge difference.
FearlessAZ said:
Are you saying the side port you installed yielded better than OEM results? I removed the from weather strip in front of the snorkel, but left the other for better idle breathing. but was thinking like you of maybe putting a port on the right side (facing the front of the car) and then stuffing that tube down behind the lights into that cranny may be better.
FearlessAZ
New member
TopherSho said:
Negative. When I had that really warped intake inlet scoop from mdesign. IAT was pretty high. Got it replaced from MDesign and it dropped the temps considerably.
Because the scoop was cracked and warped, it wasn't pulling in all the fresh air. Probably was even letting some of it out while pulling in hot engine air.
dubcitySHO
New member
AJP turbo said:
Consider me the first in line for an AJP sticker, if TopherSHO is having a friend make him one.
Agentlongwood
New member
So about heat shielding the stock intake... Was there ever any feedback on this? From reading around on here it seems like the stock airbox flows plenty of air. Enough that people don't typically see gains when swapping to aftermarket intakes. Would adding some sort of heat shielding to the outside of the airbox and tubing help? Maybe use Mylar or something similar?
Agentlongwood said:
I'd say not much to do...You could wrap the intake and exhaust all day...But the speed the turbos have to spin to compress the air to give 15 psi and 40lbs per minute of air will make all other efforts futile because the intercooler sucks
Enter Meth injection and Ethanol blends....The Meth gives the cooling and octane and the Ethanol gives more octane.
Heat in and of itself is not bad. But it requires lower spark advance to avoid pre-ignition. It's the low spark that kills power.....Meth injection lowers intake air temps which will give spark back and gives more octane which allows you to disregard the heat and still run more advance....Ethanol blends give more octane which allows you to disregard the heat and run more spark advance which gives power back.
Agentlongwood
New member
Ah ok, so regardless of air temp at the airbox, the turbos themselves would heat the intake air before it gets to the motor. I do see a lot of posts where people look for ways to lower intake air temp... does it really not make much difference? Either way I really appreciate the info, and having a community where folks answer questions with legit info and data. This forum is so much better than the Lexus one I came from with my previous car.
jbrown9999
New member
So, I know everyone keeps saying "No, not worth it" and "Don't bother" but Ford seems to think it works when it counts.TopherSho said:
boosted4SHO
New member
What types of IAT's are you guys seeing? I'm seeing 3-5 degrees over ambient temp with a K&N FIPK style intake with a green filter. This was today in 94 degree Atlanta weather with major humidity. Granted the intake is powdercoated wrinkle black with heat resistant tape on the filter side of the heat shield. The only time my IAT's rise considerably is when idling.I saw 124* at idle. As soon as I'm back on the throttle for roughly an 1/8th of a mile the IAT's settle back to the 3-5 degrees over ambient temp I mentioned earlier. I can see how on the dyno, a typical cold air intake for these cars would yield less than favorable results. In the real world I don't see them to be a problem. My data is from the Torque app with a bluetooth OBD2 reader. I never logged my stock intake to compare; but what are you folks seeing with stock intakes? IAT wise? At idle and while cruising.
always about 10f above ambient here in Oregon, on colder days that drops. but right now i'm 20f above ambient for 130f driving down the street at 40mph.
At the PIR dragstrip i see 160-170f AIT's all day long.. and it MURDERs my 0-60 and 60 foots thus kills my 1/4 mile
At woodburn where lineups are quicker i still see 140-150f temps at start..
Lamrith pointed out that with this DI engine the throttle is closed at idle or near idle. So any time you stop even if you wrap, the air does not flow through the intact all that much at all and it will still climb in temps, just slower. So for a drag strip and or x-cross your first run might be good, but going back to the line up you will see higher and higher idle temps waiting to launch until it is like you did not wrap at all.
For street driving it might help a bit.. but street racing is not my thing so it is no use to me..
At the PIR dragstrip i see 160-170f AIT's all day long.. and it MURDERs my 0-60 and 60 foots thus kills my 1/4 mile
At woodburn where lineups are quicker i still see 140-150f temps at start..
Lamrith pointed out that with this DI engine the throttle is closed at idle or near idle. So any time you stop even if you wrap, the air does not flow through the intact all that much at all and it will still climb in temps, just slower. So for a drag strip and or x-cross your first run might be good, but going back to the line up you will see higher and higher idle temps waiting to launch until it is like you did not wrap at all.
For street driving it might help a bit.. but street racing is not my thing so it is no use to me..
boosted4SHO
New member
I see... Ever thought about icing your intake pipe between runs at the track?
boosted4SHO said:
Yup.. if you wait 30 minutes with the ice i dropped from 150-120.. but by the time i lined back up i was back at 140. and i hate waiting between runs that long. for 30$ i want to run 20+ times.
in the end i went meth.. and eventually i will go e30 AFTER the meth is dialed in /looks at AJP/ ..
pretty much you'd need a chiller killer for 900$ to get the results that would be ideal (sub 100 IAT)