Wtf Did I do to my sho? New exhaust makes my car sound like a rice burner

I'm OK with a little rice. My rasp is horrible.

I did exhaust and downpipes for performance and not sound... though now that I have a sound I absolutely despise...

Now that I have WOT performance issues... I'm leaning towards less performance more reliability.
 
Did you think because it was a Ford, it would sound like a Mustang?  What kind of sound are you expecting, exactly?
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I had downpipes and a custom exhaust installed and it did not make a real marked change. So without the soundtrack to go along with the performance, it was not the right car for me.

There are plenty of pleasurable sounding, turbo V6 engines out there that have a much better sound than the Ecoboost. I have not heard an Ecoboost yet that sounds very pleasing to my ears.
 
SRT82ECOBOOST said:
Did you think because it was a Ford, it would sound like a Mustang?  What kind of sound are you expecting, exactly?
I had downpipes and a custom exhaust installed and it did not make a real marked change. So without the soundtrack to go along with the performance, it was not the right car for me.

There are plenty of pleasurable sounding, turbo V6 engines out there that have a much better sound than the Ecoboost. I have not heard an Ecoboost yet that sounds very pleasing to my ears.
[/quote]
Except the Ford GT!
 
You should return the tune to stock, that will help rule out a bad 02 sensor. You may get a CEL but no big deal. I can't remember if you have catted downpipes or not. In the stock tune 1.0 lambda is set for 14.069 AFR. So if you were logging and reading from the stock 02 sensor the 14 ish you were seeing in just fine.

You really need to have a full compliment of PID's on a WOT log to properly diagnose anything you suspect with the car.

There are so many torque limiters, airflow limiters, wastegate limiters, fuel limiters in the tune. It will be nothing like the Subaru. Your tuner guy was probably just trying to put it in terms that made sense to you. I had a WRX that I did open source tuning on and it was fairly easy to adjust wastegate duty cycle. The SHO uses a torque based approach and is wildly different than a mustang which uses a similar ECU and processor.

You should also be logging actual throttle angle in your WOT logs. Often times when your boost gets a little too high the throttle will close slightly to maintain a certain torque level, you can usually see it in a boost gauge. But when the throttle closes to maintain the torque level it could feel like a miss or hesitation, I could see that

With the stock tune the car actually uses the throttle angle to control the torque. Rarely is the throttle open completely when you floor it.

And btw if you do log actual throttle angle the max angle will be 82
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
ajpturbo said:
Also, I highly doubt you are running rich at idle...that's where logging is the only answer rathe than speculating...the only way u would be running rich would be if u were in open loop and only a complete moron would force open loop at idle for this application....actually these cars run closed loop in a way even at wot but I won't really get into that now .....

Tease...

Sorry lol......Well normally when you go WOT, determined usually by throttle position or load, you would be in open loop. Meaning there is no feedback from any of the 02 sensors and fueling will be dictated by the tables and scalars in the tune. Either speed density or MAF curve tables and such.

In closed loop, those talbes are still referenced but the feedback from the 02 sensors fine tune fueling.

It was always open OR closed loop operation. I think this was because old 02 sensor were narrow band and not wideband so they couldn't be used to make the adjustments at WOT because then couldn't read much below 13.0 AFR and at WOT even on an N/A car you would be running 12's

If you log stft's at WOT normally you would see 0 that's because there is no feedback when in open loop.

WIth the SHO and coyote mustang the ECU will still make corrections at WOT. Which is really nice because if you have a less than perfect tune and your fuel tables need work the ECU will still attempt to target and make the corrections to achieve the desired LAMBDA at WOT when in open loop....So you basically set the desired AFR and the ECU will do the work along with the fuel tables and 02 sensors..
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
Ajp, I swear that the obdII manual I sent you stated that lambda was set at 14.7......

I can't remember....I thought there were some graphs that maybe had some stuff as examples but I don't recall....In my stock tune file it's set at 14.069

I think that's the stoic point for E10 gas..

You rember what page you may have saw that on FOMO?
 
Stock tune = I need to remove my map sensor.

So if I don't get sputter with stock it could be either tune or map or both. If I do get sputter it would be O2 or Spark?

Do I need to give the engine some time to adjust before I give it the beans? (or just a warm engine)
 
ajpturbo said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
Ajp, I swear that the obdII manual I sent you stated that lambda was set at 14.7......

I can't remember....I thought there were some graphs that maybe had some stuff as examples but I don't recall....In my stock tune file it's set at 14.069

I think that's the stoic point for E10 gas..

You rember what page you may have saw that on FOMO?
No and I'm not home to look. I wonder if the deductive fueling logic adjusts stoich once it calculates.....hmmmm
 
FoMoCoSHO said:
ajpturbo said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
Ajp, I swear that the obdII manual I sent you stated that lambda was set at 14.7......

I can't remember....I thought there were some graphs that maybe had some stuff as examples but I don't recall....In my stock tune file it's set at 14.069

I think that's the stoic point for E10 gas..

You rember what page you may have saw that on FOMO?
No and I'm not home to look. I wonder if the deductive fueling logic adjusts stoich once it calculates.....hmmmm

I don't think it can...or need to...that's why reading lambda is beneficial...running .80 lambda would be good for almost any fuel ...fomo I'd say the higher E fuel u run u would see larger stft reading but lambda would remain.

I'm not really even sure why the stoic scalar is in the tune...other than maybe if u changed the fuel u were running such as higher E u could change that value and the fuel tables should scale them selves accordingly..such as an e85 tune if we could support that
 
14SHOCAR said:
Stock tune = I need to remove my map sensor.

So if I don't get sputter with stock it could be either tune or map or both. If I do get sputter it would be O2 or Spark?

Do I need to give the engine some time to adjust before I give it the beans? (or just a warm engine)
Yes. I think its well worth the 20 min. to swap it and test. No need for time to adjust, just make sure youre at normal op temp. And make sure you log it. If you still get a sputter, I think you have a bad o2 which could be from damage while swapping the DP's. It could be something as simple as crimping a wire or shorting it out on the metal.
Now get to it and let us know what happens! Its making ME crazy trying to figure this out! Lol. I couldn't imagine what youre going through....
 
ajpturbo said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
ajpturbo said:
FoMoCoSHO said:
Ajp, I swear that the obdII manual I sent you stated that lambda was set at 14.7......

I can't remember....I thought there were some graphs that maybe had some stuff as examples but I don't recall....In my stock tune file it's set at 14.069

I think that's the stoic point for E10 gas..

You rember what page you may have saw that on FOMO?
No and I'm not home to look. I wonder if the deductive fueling logic adjusts stoich once it calculates.....hmmmm

I don't think it can...or need to...that's why reading lambda is beneficial...running .80 lambda would be good for almost any fuel ...fomo I'd say the higher E fuel u run u would see larger stft reading but lambda would remain.

I'm not really even sure why the stoic scalar is in the tune...other than maybe if u changed the fuel u were running such as higher E u could change that value and the fuel tables should scale them selves accordingly..such as an e85 tune if we could support that
Short terms are pretty well dialed in, LT's are at about 5.5 while cruising and 7 when I punch it......way lower than on the 2013 at that E level.

From what I can tell our cars use the deductive fueling as well, it is just limited by trims at +- 25% most likely because of the pump. I exceeded those levels on the 13 and never got a cel or a dtc. I haven't seen any loss of rail pressure yet but I am also on the stock tune.
 
Update for everyone.

I spoke with LMS for about 30 minutes on Friday asking about the V8 3 bar tune. They said there are a lot of cars running this tune with my strategy and the problems I am having at wide open throttle must be due to something with my car or gas I am running. To test the O2 sensor / Map sensor / spark plugs I returned my car back to stock to see if I still got sputter.

When I tried to revert my car "back to stock" (with a 2 bar installed). The tune failed and I thought I blew up my ECU with the LMS tuner. I had to try to revert back to factory 3 times before the factory tune took.
Last night I tried to tune my car to the 93 2Bar DP tune. It is running really good right now. I have NO sputter and no problems with the tune itself.  I also notice the volume of soot coming out of the rear pipes is significantly less.

I think its a much more stable tune, and I'd rather have stability over the crap I've been dealing with.

I'm SOOOOOOOOOO fed up with the tuner and the issues that I've been having with my car since I put on the cats + exhaust. I am going to put the factory cats back on the car and keep the Corsa Exhaust. If I don't like the sound I am returning the exhaust complete back to factory. I suspect my Broken in Corsa Exhaust will sound great after I get the factory downpipes on.

So there we have it. After a crap ton of $$ and a ton of time, I'm going back to a more stable build on the SHO.
 
Check your 3bar sensor, maybe it just needs a little cleanup.  Or it may be bad.  Since the 2 bar tune works for you, the sensor is what I'd look to replace and test.
 
SHOdded said:
Check your 3bar sensor, maybe it just needs a little cleanup.  Or it may be bad.  Since the 2 bar tune works for you, the sensor is what I'd look to replace and test.

An easy way to check if the 3bar sensor is bad. Swap out your spare 3bar with the 3bar sensor before the TB. No need to change tune files. If it starts acting up then the sensor is bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
14SHOCAR said:
I don't have a spare 3 bar. The SHO, from my understanding only comes with a 2 bar...

The 3bar you were using for your 3bar tune, swap that one with the 3bar sensor pre throttle body.
956a7c2a1319ba7fd0ff1707fe48bd3d.jpg



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Wow are you serious?...that really does suck man. I simply would not be able to deal with a company that refused to look at a single data log...or tell me that there are tons of tunes out there.seems kinda rude in a way
 
14SHOCAR said:
Update for everyone.

I spoke with LMS for about 30 minutes on Friday asking about the V8 3 bar tune. They said there are a lot of cars running this tune with my strategy and the problems I am having at wide open throttle must be due to something with my car or gas I am running. To test the O2 sensor / Map sensor / spark plugs I returned my car back to stock to see if I still got sputter.

When I tried to revert my car "back to stock" (with a 2 bar installed). The tune failed and I thought I blew up my ECU with the LMS tuner. I had to try to revert back to factory 3 times before the factory tune took.
Last night I tried to tune my car to the 93 2Bar DP tune. It is running really good right now. I have NO sputter and no problems with the tune itself.  I also notice the volume of soot coming out of the rear pipes is significantly less.

I think its a much more stable tune, and I'd rather have stability over the crap I've been dealing with.

I'm SOOOOOOOOOO fed up with the tuner and the issues that I've been having with my car since I put on the cats + exhaust. I am going to put the factory cats back on the car and keep the Corsa Exhaust. If I don't like the sound I am returning the exhaust complete back to factory. I suspect my Broken in Corsa Exhaust will sound great after I get the factory downpipes on.

So there we have it. After a crap ton of $$ and a ton of time, I'm going back to a more stable build on the SHO.
So what happened when you went back to stock? Did you drive it at all? Curious to know what happened.  Who is the 93 2 bar DP tune from? Good idea to check the 3bar sensor....
 
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