17 DTC'S dead battery @ 125k miles....???

6

68_GT

New member
My SHO PP has a valvetrain tick and has for about 50-60k miles. Changed my oil recently as always with Mobile 1 FS and the tick seemed to get louder (thinner oil?). I've had some trusted mechanics tell me it's a lifter, or rocker arm. I can still beat on the car and it was running plenty strong on my LMS V10 tune. I just flashed back to stock (and put in the stock 2 bar) because I was getting some hesitation in the higher rpms I believe is attributed to cold weather blend of 93. Now at stock no hesitation just down on power. I'm frustrated with LMS since I asked for a tune update and was now told I need to submit tons of car info again that I gave them long ago so I haven't had time to mess with that again. So randomly I've had a dead battery 2-3 times in the last few weeks. Had the battery / alternator tested at the auto parts stores and was told I had a bad battery (it's a 6 month old Optima Red Top), and today told my alternator was bad and it was putting out zero amps (per the printout) after a load test with the engine running. Went right over to another auto parts shop and was told everything checked out well. I had charged my battery up to 100% and when I got home it was at 80%. I may pull the Optima out of my 68 Mustang and put it in the SHO to see if that can rule out the battery. My guess is my alternator is on its way out and sometime charges and sometime doesn't. By looking at the alternator looks like a PITA to change. Has anyone done it ?

so here are my questions ... can anyone identify the DTC's ?? my MIL (engine light) has never come on and no other dash indicators that anything is wrong but when I went to flash the car back to stock I got these...

U0100
U0121
U0131
U0151
U0154
U0159
U0424
U0533
U0534
C1001
B1215
U0151
U3003
U0100
U3003
B1310
PO230  Some are repeated ???

The engine tick is kinda loud now and sounds crappy, Any idea what it takes to fix it ?? Could it be the HPFP ??

I need to flush my transmission, coolant, and PTU. Should I have the dealer do all this at once ?? What is a fair price for those services ?? Will dealer do PTU flush ? I'm on all stock fluid except regular oil changes.

I also think I have some bushings out in the front end somewhere, and possibly sway bar end links. I hear rattles and light clunks at slow speeds in parking lots, over bumps and turns.

The car still has good power but obviously needs some love. I want to get all this fixed right with out getting raped by the dealer.
 
I just changed out all my spark plugs a week ago with new Motorcraft plugs gapped at about 28-30. Prior to that I was getting spark blow out that at times had out the car in limp mode. That was 95% better after new plugs but still had some tune hesitation. Now flashed back to stock it drives like new.

both driver side door locks randomly stop working, and I saw some sort of warning light about a rear sensor not working but it appeared to go away.
 
Sounds like you have a lot going on. How do you know you have spark blow out? The one thing I don't like about LMS is the inability to log with their device, vs the X4 for example. Hard to tell whats going on without logs. From what I have come across, a thicker oil will help with the valve train clicking, but that is more of a bandaid than a fix. I think there are even oil additives to help with valve train noise. It sounds like you have your answer on the alternator, if you have the same issue with your other battery its time to replace it. I am sure that will fix many of your issues. With the charging system being screwed up I am sure it is causing other issues, possibly the issues with your LMS tune. If you could log, you would be able to see voltage over the run, a dip in the charging system voltage would cause spark issues, limp mode etc. Hopefully someone can chime in on the codes and give you some guidance, good luck and keep us updated.

Scott
 
It sounds like you neglected to stay on top of your vehicles maintenance aspect especially with higher mileage you mentioned above.
Have you had all the recalls performed? or up to date? especially the FDM Recall?
Have you had the door locks/latches recall done?
The PO230 is related to the fuel system and would not worry about those other random U&B body codes which AFAIK are related your your battery.
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0230
 
Seems like a lot of communications errors, could very well be an electrical issue caused by the alternator/battery.  You can monitor the "generator" pids using Forscan to tell you what it is doing while you are driving.  Normally, it should keep voltage rock steady around 14.5V, and the optima battery when fully charged (including surface charge) will be around 12.88V with everything shut off (including engine).

Any aftermarket accessories of note?  Do you have something plugged into the powerpoints while driving?  How much power does it/do they draw?

Is the tick rhythmic or random?  Does it speed up/slow down with engine rpms?

Best to use a mechanic's stethescope to see if the sound can be localized.  Can you hear it even with the cover on, or do you have to "run nekked" to hear it?  VCT solenoids do give out on these engines, but rarely do they not throw a code.  So that won't be the source of the tick.  The oil pump does occasionally give out, so I would check idle and 2000 rpm oil pressure with a gauge at the oil pressure switch.
 
car is stock less a K&N filter and LMS tune, but now stock. I could tell before I was getting spark blow out because of a lot of hesitation. I pulled my plugs and they were worn at 40-50 :(

My SHO was at the dealer last September when they replaced timing chain guides, timing chain, and chain tensioner at like $3k.
they did something with the door lock recall. I think they just replaced some IDK.... I did have a fuel pump recall fixed at one point due to fuel smell in the car. I drive a lot, and I work 2 jobs with 2 kiddos I am super busy so yeah the car maybe somewhat neglected, but like I said it still seems to run good. I out ran a 2016 GT Stang on the highway just a week ago lol it had at least exhaust I could hear it nice and loud behind me as he got a little smaller from 60-110. I love the car and want to maintain it. The body and interior and wheels are all still in great shape so it looks great and still gets lot of looks and compliments.

The tick is rhythmic. It's slow at idle and speed up with engine rpm. I took off my spark plug wires one by one and the sound never changed which I believe is supposed to be that way for top end ticks, I believe bottom end ticks / knocks lessen when you pull the plug on the damaged cylinder by taking the load off of it. I think that is right but I can still beat on it and it hasn't blown up. Like I said also a reputable friend and local race engine builder / tuner agreed its a lifter or something. I never noticed any metal in the oil when draining.

Do you guys think I should have the dealer address all of this at once, or do PTU, coolant, trans fluid changes elsewhere ??

I only want the dealer to mess with the engine tick and I need the car reliable so I guess I'll have them look at the alternator, it looks like a pain to change where it is.

suggestions ??
thanks in advance guys..... hoping this isn't a huge repair :(
 
Try switching oils, I recommend Amsoil because many people have reported the engine running quieter and smoother after the change.  Are you using the Motorcraft oil filter or something else?

If you suspect the battery, thoroughly check the case for cracking.  Acid spillout from a cracked case has been known to damage wiring harnesses, leading to all sorts of error codes.  Check, clean, grease and reconnect connectors at the PCM and the BCM.

Is your SHO eligible for the Fuel Pump Delivery Module recall?  Check with the VIN at https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/maintenance/recalls/results.html

Your dealer may/may not do PTU/RDU changes.  All other fluids they should be willing to service.  If they are hesitant about the PTU/RDU fluids, try to talk to the trans tech directly, and if that fails take it to a reputable transmission shop.

The alternator is probably the same process as on the 3.5L on the Edge as shown here, EXCEPT, the AC Compressor also has to be removed ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_CjQH3rROM
 
I would have to agree that your SHO is long over due for some extra love(TLC).
I have great relations with my dealer and had the PTU,RDU,TRANS,Coolant,Brake system flush performed with roughly 30k on the clock.

I would say try to see if the dealer would work out some kind of package deal and have everything performed in one day and save a few trips especially with your busy schedule & limited time since you already spend a significant amount of $$$$ there already.

I would also see if the dealer would accommodate you bringing your own fluids especially the PTU Fluid.
Since you have a PP SHO the PTU Flush which is a bit cost effective and time consuming out of the list below since the passenger DP needs to be removed and all and needs to be flushed out twice.

This is a rough estimate which i gathered up from my personal experience and may vary depending on the dealer,and best of luck to ya.  Z

1)PTU Flush. 250.00-300.00
2)RDU Flush.80.00
TRANS Flush 80.00
4)Coolant Flush. 80.00
5)Brake Flush. 80.00

I know you changed the spark plugs but would also install some new (COP)Boots based on the mileage you currently have. 3.90 ea x6 needed.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,ignition,spark+plug+(coil-on-plug)+boot,10150

PCV Valve 4.39
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2013,taurus,3.5l+v6+turbocharged,1503823,ignition,spark+plug+(coil-on-plug)+boot,10150
5% Discount Code: 1A0ACE283964FE
Expires: March 20, 2017

I hope the outlined prices above helps someone out and gives them a true feel on what to expect prior to visiting your local friendly Ford dealer.  Z  :)
 
Forgot to ask, are all these DTCs ones that have come on AFTER you cleared codes, or have you never cleared codes?  Sometimes flashing the PCM can set weird codes, so if you have done it multiple times (stock to tune, tune to stock, ...) they could just have accumulated and not really mean anything is wrong.  Clear all codes/KAM reset your SHO, then see if the codes come back.
 
all those codes were there that I had to clear before I flashed it back to stock.
Car gets to the dealer now all the DTC's are cleared ?? probably didn't help. I'm going to give them all the codes now, I didn't before because I thought surely they could diagnose a charging issue. They're blaming my 6 month old Optima red tip battery ?? They say it bad and give it back to me to warranty with Advance Auto who says it tests good! UGH !!!!!!!!!!

they want to replace my motor over the ticking noise claiming they can't replace one part and be concerned if that will cause something else to go wrong in the engine. I really believe its a tapping lifter and / or rocker after researching all over the internet for tapping lifter the fix seems easy. I might have to tackle it myself !??!?!??
 
I'm having the dealer flush my coolant and service my transmission while it's there. But they wanted to charge me over $900 to replace my front strut mounts and sway bar end links. Price sounds excessive to me so I declined that. Seems like something I can do my self if it costs that dang much ?!??!??
 
68_GT said:
I'm having the dealer flush my coolant and service my transmission while it's there. But they wanted to charge me over $900 to replace my front strut mounts and sway bar end links. Price sounds excessive to me so I declined that. Seems like something I can do my self if it costs that dang much ?!??!??
Click to expand...

That's insane.  You'll need to remove the struts from the vehicle and compress the springs to replace the mounts.  Each mount runs for about $50-$100, i believe.  You can probably rent the tool at an auto parts store.  Really not that big of a deal, but you need to be very careful when doing it.  The end links took me about an hour to do.  I could probably do it again in about 30 minutes.  Fairly simple job.  Each end link cost me about $10.
 
pmezo33 said:
68_GT said:
I'm having the dealer flush my coolant and service my transmission while it's there. But they wanted to charge me over $900 to replace my front strut mounts and sway bar end links. Price sounds excessive to me so I declined that. Seems like something I can do my self if it costs that dang much ?!??!??
Click to expand...

That's insane.  You'll need to remove the struts from the vehicle and compress the springs to replace the mounts.  Each mount runs for about $50-$100, i believe.  You can probably rent the tool at an auto parts store.  Really not that big of a deal, but you need to be very careful when doing it.  The end links took me about an hour to do.  I could probably do it again in about 30 minutes.  Fairly simple job.  Each end link cost me about $10.
Click to expand...
I knew it...

I'll pull the strut assembly out and get new mounts and take them to a trustworthy mechanic and pay them to compress the spring and put them in. Any info about the sway bar links install ?
 
68_GT said:
pmezo33 said:
68_GT said:
I'm having the dealer flush my coolant and service my transmission while it's there. But they wanted to charge me over $900 to replace my front strut mounts and sway bar end links. Price sounds excessive to me so I declined that. Seems like something I can do my self if it costs that dang much ?!??!??
Click to expand...

That's insane.  You'll need to remove the struts from the vehicle and compress the springs to replace the mounts.  Each mount runs for about $50-$100, i believe.  You can probably rent the tool at an auto parts store.  Really not that big of a deal, but you need to be very careful when doing it.  The end links took me about an hour to do.  I could probably do it again in about 30 minutes.  Fairly simple job.  Each end link cost me about $10.
Click to expand...
I knew it...

I'll pull the strut assembly out and get new mounts and take them to a trustworthy mechanic and pay them to compress the spring and put them in. Any info about the sway bar links install ?
Click to expand...

Just did it a couple days ago.  Wrote up a step for step how to do it.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7466.msg113494.html#msg113494
 
got my SHO back with only a transmission service and coolant flush.

I'm not paying $900 for strut mounts and end links, or $300 for a new door latch, and they wouldn't fix my engine tick claiming I need a new engine. They claim if they make one repair to stop the tapping noise it would cause other problems somewhere else opening a can of worms. I have researched this to death now and I'm convinced I have a bad lifter (lash adjuster) which may have also damaged the finger rocker arm roller tip.

I believe the ticking lifter is coming from the back side of the engine on the passenger side which is good and bad. Bad because it's harder to reach good because I wont have to remove the upper intake to get the valve cover off. I think I'm going to tackle this myself by pulling the valve cover an getting the lifter removal tool to compress the valve spring to pull the rocker and lifter out for replacement.

Has anyone had any experience with this on our cars ? My SHO runs great but now sounds like caca. I'm guessing something got into the lifter causing it to get stuck and therefore is no longer adjusting the lash causing the tick.
 
Looks like you will have to remove the engine from the SHO to get access to do the work, because you have to first remove the camshafts and valve tappets to get to the Valve Spring, Retainer and Seal.

BTW, there aren't any roller rockers in this system.
The valve train uses Direct Acting Mechanical Buckets (DAMB). The camshaft lobes are positioned directly above mechanical buckets which are positioned on top of the valves.
Click to expand...

Valve Clearance Check
Remove the valve covers. For additional information, refer to Valve Cover — LH and Valve Cover — RH in this section.
NOTE: Engine must be at room temperature before measuring. The valve clearance must be measured with the camshaft at base circle. The engine will have to be rotated with the crankshaft pulley bolt to bring each valve to base circle.

Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance of each valve and record its location. A midrange clearance is the most desirable:
Intake: 0.15-0.25 mm (0.006-0.01 in)
Exhaust: 0.360-0.460 mm (0.0142-0.0181 in)

NOTE: The number on the valve tappet reflects the thickness of the valve tappet. For example, a tappet with the number 3.310 has the thickness of 3.31 mm (0.13 in).

If any of the valve clearances are out of specification, select new tappets using this formula: tappet thickness = measured clearance + the base tappet thickness - most desirable thickness.
Select the tappets and mark the installation location.
If required, install the new selected valve tappets in the marked locations. For additional information, refer to Valve Tappets in this section.

 
from what I can tell the overhead cams sit on a little rocker that pushes down on a lifter. There a tool that presses on the spring to pull the rocker out then the lifter comes out.
 
Basically, the camshaft sits directly above the valves with different thickness pucks (or shims) for adjustment.  I believe this is very similar to the valvetrain in the Yamaha SHOs.
 
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