17 DTC'S dead battery @ 125k miles....???

the high flow fuel pump is the silver thing on the front top of the engine right ? has the foam noise dampner on it ?
 
considering worst case scenario here if I needed an engine here what would you guys do ?
thinking to get a used complete engine out of a wrecked car or get a deal on a new Ford engine assembly ? maybe an upgrade engine with Ford racing ?? sheez.... My dealer wanted $5k for a long block and $10k for a whole new engine.
 
68_GT said:
considering worst case scenario here if I needed an engine here what would you guys do ?
thinking to get a used complete engine out of a wrecked car or get a deal on a new Ford engine assembly ? maybe an upgrade engine with Ford racing ?? sheez.... My dealer wanted $5k for a long block and $10k for a whole new engine.
Click to expand...

If you end up needing a new engine, I would go with either a SuperSix Motorsports or Livernois shortblock (or longblock if available). May cost a little more than a stock short/longblock, but will make more power, and be able to handle said increased power.

The cheaper option would be a used unit out of a car that was in a rear end collision, etc. but you never know how that was cared for.
 
Correct that is the HPFP.  Hopefully that is making the racket.

I believe RandR10 is looking for a replacement engine for his Flex and says that 13+ engines are easily sourced on eBay.    New engines will be more difficult, Ford seems to have a backlog.  And yeah, they are expensive to find and install.
 
I just talked to Tousley Ford and they say a new engine is $4600 discounted to $3,700 for the good guy discount. New engine is basically a long block. Apparently they don't have a fully dressed SHO replacement engine. Do those come from Ford Racing ? Maybe only for a F150. Would that work just need to use our upper intake ??

here is  a demo of the HFPF I think ??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdYDRXsG6Qc

I guess if I had to get a new engine I'd consider getting a Livernois built engine, but how much power does just the longblock add and at what point does the higher power start really breaking other things ? trans etc...
 
68_GT said:
I just talked to Tousley Ford and they say a new engine is $4600 discounted to $3,700 for the good guy discount. New engine is basically a long block. Apparently they don't have a fully dressed SHO replacement engine. Do those come from Ford Racing ? Maybe only for a F150. Would that work just need to use our upper intake ??

here is  a demo of the HFPF I think ??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdYDRXsG6Qc
Click to expand...

F150 engine has a few differences, it is mounted longitudinal to start. F150 stock has 3 bar for both map sensors. F150 has a different HPFP as well. Intake system is different, different turbos, different intercooler.

10-12 SHO/Flex/XSport vs. 13+ have minimal differences that can be accounted for, but I do not think an F150 engine swap would be financially prudent.
 
Sounds decent for a long block price.  A short block is about 1400$ or so.  And the "knocking" sound isn't from the HPFP looks like, and indeed from the rear valve cover (middle) area.  Does the sound vary directly with RPM, and does it make a difference if the cover is on or not?  If the cover mutes it substantially, it is very likely top end noise in which case we are back to the lifter and possibly camshaft scenario.

As we know from bpd's build, a built block is good for at least 600 AWHP (with meth kit), well past daily driver levels for the trans. 500 AWHP or so is about the limit for the stock trans for DD duty.
 
I still have my oil in the recycle container from my last oil change. I can't see any metal flakes in it. Wouldn't it look like it had glitter in it if it was a bad rod bearing ? I listened to other videos of rod knock and mine doesn't seem to have the same hollow knock sound ?
 
Very loud under car also.  Rod knock does not necessarily  leave traces in the oill.  Bearings may simply wear away over time.
 
That video at post #33 sounds exactly like this. And that video is labeled ecoboost rod knock
https://youtu.be/1F5Kl9DVN7I
 
To quote a comment from that link:

"Aaron Martin forgive me i don't remember which cylinder it was but it destroyed a piston and rod, new short block was installed under warranty ( truck only had 6000 miles on it), apparently through some internet research they had issues with injectors leaking and causing the problem although they did not replace any injectors with my repair."

Even though it is from an F150, the same principles apply.  Speculative mind you, how many times do we get to see the actual damage?  Too consumed with the bottom line.
 
DO you have any form of tuner/datalogging software? I want to know what your KR is at idle, etc. as that would indicate if stock knock sensors are picking up the knock that we hear in the videos.
 
I remember in shop class to find the cylinder that's knocking you remove the plug wires one at a time and listen. If the knock gets quieter when the wire is removed that's your bad cylinder. Removing the wire  stops the combustion pressure on that cylinder.
Not sure if you can still troubleshoot a di motor like that.
 
glock-coma said:
I remember in shop class to find the cylinder that's knocking you remove the plug wires one at a time and listen. If the knock gets quieter when the wire is removed that's your bad cylinder. Removing the wire  stops the combustion pressure on that cylinder.
Not sure if you can still troubleshoot a di motor like that.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that cause the injector to continue to spray while not getting any spark?  Not sure I'd want to take that risk.  Might cause fuel damage to the cats.
 
pmezo33 said:
glock-coma said:
I remember in shop class to find the cylinder that's knocking you remove the plug wires one at a time and listen. If the knock gets quieter when the wire is removed that's your bad cylinder. Removing the wire  stops the combustion pressure on that cylinder.
Not sure if you can still troubleshoot a di motor like that.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't that cause the injector to continue to spray while not getting any spark?  Not sure I'd want to take that risk.  Might cause fuel damage to the cats.
Click to expand...
Plug wire is only disconnected for a few seconds.
 
I did that on every cylinder and the sound didn't change. Knock sound was the same without combustion.
 
Took my SHO to a mechanic who swears up and down it's not a rod knocking. He says it sounds like a collapsed lifter. So are these lifter solid or do they pump with oil pressure? Thinking it's either that or needs a shim somewhere ??
 
dang engine just blew.

official time of death 132,311.70 miles.

Engine fragments took out one of my bran new rear tires..... ugh

looks like a new longblock and upgraded turbos are in my near future, unless they'll blow up another stock longblock ???
 
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