17 DTC'S dead battery @ 125k miles....???

wow,,,, so is my local Ford dealer incapable of doing that or unwilling to because they want me to buy an engine ?

who does this kind of work ???

maybe its not that bad ???
 
It is a tedious list of steps, but any competent mechanic should be able to get it done.  IF I went that far down the rabbit hole, though, I would look at everything while the engine was out, including the bottom end.  Seems like you have mechanics you can work with?  Might make financial sense then.  As to parts availability, I can't say 4 sure, as we haven't had anyone do this work yet (and post about it).

8 BL3Z-6571-A Valve Seals $2.84 $2.00
9 AA5Z-6513-A Valve Springs TAURUS; W/TURBO $4.25 $2.74
10 7T4Z-6514-AA Valve Spring Retainers TAURUS $5.45 $3.51
11 1S7Z-6518-AA Valve Keeper TAURUS $4.75 $3.05
12 AT4Z-6500-AAA Valve Lifters TAURUS $11.93 $7.68
 
in that link it didn't say why that whole job was necessary,,,,, I would guess once I removed my valve cover it might be obvious which shim might need to be replaced upon a visual inspection ??

It might not be too bad if it's just one or 2. Doing the entire engine might be a real nuisance.
 
think I'll pull valve cover and have a look my self. Is it OK to remove these quick connect hoses to move them out of the way ?
i3RsJuzh.jpg
 
68_GT said:
think I'll pull valve cover and have a look my self. Is it OK to remove these quick connect hoses to move them out of the way ?
i3RsJuzh.jpg
Click to expand...
Yes but be careful with the fuel vapor hose,red clip.
BTW fixed the pic for ya.  Z
 
The 2 with the white clip are vacuum lines, those are fine to remove.
The red clip one is fuel. Not sure if it's pressurized or a return to the tank.
EXERCISE CAUTION IF YOU REMOVE IT.
 
Yeah I think only the white clip hoses will have to be removed to get it off. What is the module attached to the valve cover there ?

Should I assume the valve cover gasket will not be reusable ? I just want to peek under the cover for now. A shop wanted $350 to look at it.

Oh and thanks for helping with the pic adjustment !
 
glock-coma said:
The 2 with the white clip are vacuum lines, those are fine to remove.
The red clip one is fuel. Not sure if it's pressurized or a return to the tank.
EXERCISE CAUTION IF YOU REMOVE IT.
Click to expand...

Especially since the clip has been known to be brittle and break upon removal, from what I have seen other members post.
 
IMHO would not remove the rear valve cover on a temporary basis because there is a silicone/sealant holding it together so essentially you will have to remove the old sealant carefully and install new silicone/sealant and let it cure for a while and also need to torque down the bolts properly to oem specs.  Z
 
ZSHO said:
IMHO would not remove the rear valve cover on a temporary basis because there is a silicone/sealant holding it together so essentially you will have to remove the old sealant carefully and install new silicone/sealant and let it cure for a while and also need to torque down the bolts properly to oem specs.  Z
Click to expand...

You mean RTV?...nothing special its quite common...you realize dealer level mechanics slap it on and go and torque wrenches are rarely used....its a valve cover, clean the mating services and thoroughly degrease when applying rtv and dont over tighten the bolts since they are going into aluminum easy peasy...
 
That doesn't sound good at all.  Sounds like metal on metal contact to me.  Possibly a rod knock.

What does your oil changes look like?  Metal shavings?  I'd cracked open an oil filter and see if it's catching anything.
 
its coming from the top end I'm pretty sure. The car runs fine and the way I drive I think I would have blown it up by now if it was a rod. To my knowledge engines don't last long with knocking rods.

I just had a mechanic use a mechanics stethoscope and he agreed it seems to be coming from a lifter. oil is fresh and clean.
 
I'm just basing this off what i hear in that clip.  Lifter noise is more of a tick.  The sound your car seems to be making is more of a knock.

Definitely no metal shavings anywhere in that oil or oil filter?
 
SHOdded said:
Sounds like a bad HPFP or rod knock.  That is NOT ticking.
Click to expand...

Exactly what i'm hearing too.  Sounds like every other rod knock that i've ever heard.  This sounds nothing like a tick that you'd get from a lifter.
 
As long as a low oil pressure light does not come on, the rod knock won't do damage, generally.  If it does come on, no more driving.
 
AJP turbo said:
ZSHO said:
IMHO would not remove the rear valve cover on a temporary basis because there is a silicone/sealant holding it together so essentially you will have to remove the old sealant carefully and install new silicone/sealant and let it cure for a while and also need to torque down the bolts properly to oem specs.  Z
Click to expand...

You mean RTV?...nothing special its quite common...you realize dealer level mechanics slap it on and go and torque wrenches are rarely used....its a valve cover, clean the mating services and thoroughly degrease when applying rtv and dont over tighten the bolts since they are going into aluminum easy peasy...
Click to expand...
Correct RTV/Sealant same crap different smell.lol.  Z
Motorcraft #TA357 SEALANT - SILICONE (TA357)
Pics below.
KF2TRgSh.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-TA357-SEALANT-SILICONE/dp/B0065T1N8I/ref=sr_1_1/165-7563507-2835908?ie=UTF8&qid=1488478838&sr=8-1&keywords=ford%2Fmotorcraft+TA+357+SEALANT
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
my 2017 SHO w/PP
2 3 4
Replies
65
Views
27K
SHOdded
S
X
Livernois Race Intercooler SHO
Replies
1
Views
4K
SHOdded
S
C
Headligh tcoming on by itself, car is off
Replies
8
Views
7K
Ta2dResqr
T
E
It's been a long time...social medias are back up...
Replies
2
Views
4K
Ecoboost_xsport
E
F
That's the Brakes
Replies
9
Views
12K
SHOdded
S
Back
Top