2010 SHO. Detonation... maybe

[RagingPenguin]

Well, I feel like a real heel. It's looking like detonation still.

Got my OBD2 scanner and downloaded torque.
Input PID parameters for KR.

Car is under normal conditions -2.2/0.0
3/4 throttle was 5-6 degrees
WOT was 7 degrees.


Going to check both knock sensors and test them also.

Is there any chance my exhaust and cold air could cause this on a untuned car?

Have also heard that if the oil is a bit old it can cause issues, oil life still shows 37% on car. On dipstick it still looks ok, changing it tomorrow regardless.

 

[SHOdded]

Putting in fresh oil/filter is a good idea.  Then monitor consumption.  May need to Seafoam or AutoRX to free up piston rings.

Some good tips in this post.  Stock turbo seals have been known to leak in the absence of sufficient backpressure, such as when installing freeflowing downpipes/catbacks.  Sometimes even when all stock/OEM.  In an extreme case, the bearings may be starting to fail.

Does the coolant/coolant level look OK?  It can be tested for the existence of combustion gases.

Now that you have the equipment, you should do a log of basic parameters including RPM, throttle position, vacuum, timing advance, FRP, AFR, and KR.  Does Oil Pressure or Oil Temperature show up on the list of available PIDs?  That would be good too.  The possible drawback being that Torque's fastest sampling is 0.1 seconds, while a tuner device can log much, much faster than that.  Post your results as a spreadsheet/CSV (minus any identifying data of course).

If you can go one step further and get a USB boroscope to look down the plug wells at the cylinder walls/pistons, that would be a good idea.  Or have a mechanic do that for you.  No scoring/pitting/etc.

Still not comfortable with not knowing the PCM status.  If it is tuned, that could open up a whole new can of worms.  Table the thought for now, but keep it in mind.

 

[RagingPenguin]

Still working on data log, drove car with to grab breakfast this am and noticed 16psi on vac gauge at wot. Is that normal, I always though 12 was normal

 

[SHOdded]

16 lbs of boost?  That is beyond the reach of the 2 bar MAP (14.7), so unlikely to be accurate.    Could certainly be over boosting trying to compensate for a boost leak from loose/split piping for example.

 

[RagingPenguin]

Should I consider changing the MAP? It showed 14-16 psi a few times.

 

[SHOdded]

Car would not be happy at all without a tune for the 3 bar.  It would be better time invested checking the piping, IMHO.

 

[RagingPenguin]

I meant with another 2 bar, I picked up some MAF cleaner and will try cleaning MAP, IAT and TCBP sensors

 

[RagingPenguin]

Will also check all piping also

 

[RagingPenguin]

Piping all seemed fine, cleaned MAP sensors etc, knock sensor wiring was ok.
Noticed a oil collecting at fittings on throttle body gear clamp, however sensors were clean. If I swabbed my finger in pipe before throttle body I could get some oil on my finger. Will do a data log and am going to try another dealer to look at car.
At this point its beyond my ability and what I have access to as far as equipment.

 

[SHOnUup]

Torque is known to register higher boost #'s than actual.

 

[SHOnUup]

Almost sounds similar to heat shield incident that someone just went though.

 

[RagingPenguin]

Will agree with that, data log numbers and gauge numbers weren't the same

Data log is attached in CSV file.

 

[SHOdded]

Looks like the KR is very replicatable.  6.5, wow, with just a short trip into WOT territory.  As SHOnUup said, worth a look undercar to make sure everything's secured properly.  Could be false knock caused by resonance from a loose heatshield.

Seeing wide variances between AFR commanded vs measured (AFRc vs AFRm), up to almost 16.x, more often up to 4.  Assuming AFRm is accurate, the engine looks like it is running lean when the high KR values are obtained.  AFRm drops out during sudden WOT acceleration, but that could be a torque/BT thing also, or even normal for the ECU.  Can you datalog with the engine warmed up and idling?  Also set the Torque data collection intervals to 0.1 second (if you have a highspeed BT adapter).

So I am inclined to believe that there is unmetered air entering the system, meaning loose piping somewhere.  Could be a bad MAP or MAP wiring/connection, easy to check with the cover off.  Also reset the plug gap to 0.035 and datalog again.

HTH.

 

[RagingPenguin]

Have a grocery shopping trip today. Will datalog drive after car is warm.

Snapped a pic of a plug also,

Coolant was ok as well, clean and green.

Will toss the SHO on jack stands and get underneath to get a better look at piping, heat shields etc.

 

[ZSHO]

Have a grocery shopping trip today. Will datalog drive after car is warm.

Snapped a pic of a plug also,

Coolant was ok as well, clean and green.

Will toss the SHO on jack stands and get underneath to get a better look at piping, heat shields etc.

Those plugs look good,as long as the tips are not black and how many miles on the plugs?

 

[RagingPenguin]

Maybe 700 miles

Car also threw codes for O2 sensors. No cel but was able to pull up in torque. This was a few nights ago. 

 

[SHOdded]

What were the codes?  Upstream/downstream?  Upstream voltages should be higher than downstream.

 

[RagingPenguin]

http://www.dtcsearch.com/P0150/?from=Torque

Only searched one code. Can't remember second one. Should of documented it.
Noticed car makes a very pronounced tick sound at idle. Would describe it as injectors.

I know my 5.4 F150 idles very loud with loud injectors, so Im assuming it's normal for the SHO.

 

[SHOdded]

Some describe the sound almost like a diesel, but yes, that would be characteristic of GDI engines.  Listen to any number of YouTube review videos and decide for yourself.  If it sounds out of place, we can look into it further.

 

[RagingPenguin]

Here is trip to store.  right from car being started cold. Light driving, no WOT and about a minute of idling at the end.