2013 XSport Tuning

10-4. Would you recommend re-loading the .cef file Torrie sent me onto the X4, or does reflashing with the file already loaded generally cure the glitch/bad flash?

Thanks again for the guidance!
 
MiWiAu said:
10-4. Would you recommend re-loading the .cef file Torrie sent me onto the X4, or does reflashing with the file already loaded generally cure the glitch/bad flash?

Thanks again for the guidance!
In my experience, just the reflash was needed.

My issues were annoying, yours are a bit more serious so you might want to redo the entire process, just to be sure you covered all the bases.

Has Torrie sent you a retune yet?
 
Ha, yeah. Tomorrow morning I'll reflash to stock, make sure the SCT is totally updated and upload the new tune that I just received from Torrie. He wants a short WOT run with the new file and said something is totally screwed up. I think his reply set a new word count record at 12! :)

Do you guys always reset your KAM after every new flash, and if so, do I need to wait for a bit before running WOT? As suggested, I'll definitely keep an eye on my lambse and age numbers.
 
With a KAM reset, the emissions monitors also get reset IIRC.  If that is the case, use Torque Pro to your advantage, as it has a PID/graph for just that purpose.  Once the monitors go all green, you may resume the normally scheduled WOTting ...
 
So this morning, I reflashed the OE tune to the XPL0DR. I then updated the X4 with device updater, performed a factory reset to clear all existing information, re-confirmed update, loaded the new tune from Torrie, and flashed it to the truck.

A short 0-60 WOT data log is attached. Lambse and AFR values seem much more reasonable than before (to my untrained eye), so one of the things above seems to have gotten me back on the right track.

On a side note, the vehicle quirks when a tune is being flashed kind of weird me out. I always wait until all the displays and interior lights turn off before starting the flash process. When I first loaded the original 87 tune from Torrie, the airbag light and the BLIS lights on the mirrors were illuminated. When I reflashed to OE this morning, the airbag light and my interior color accent lights came on. When I loaded the newest tune from Torrie, only the airbag light was on - nothing else. Bizarre.

Thanks again for the help in getting me straightened out!
 
Yeah, you have power enrichment now so that's all good.

They all seem to have their own patterns of quirks when being flashed and when the behavior changes, that is a sign the flash may not have been perfect.

Mine always turns on the blower fan and the windshield wipers activate.

A couple of times, that hasn't happened and the result was less than ideal.
 
I flashed another updated tune from Torrie when I left work, and I now feel that I'm approaching "scalded dog" territory. Crazy the improvements over my first quirky tune after only two flashes.
 
MiWiAu said:
I flashed another updated tune from Torrie when I left work, and I now feel that I'm approaching "scalded dog" territory. Crazy the improvements over my first quirky tune after only two flashes.

Torrie advised rolling back to the prior tune due to higher knock rate. Looks like one and done on the 87 performance tune.
 
Boy, oh boy...

Since we got the 87 Performance tune sorted, I loaded the initial 87 Tow tune for the first time this AM. Data log attached.
 
Can someone explain to me what "good" vs "bad" knock retard readings would look like? I'm doing some e-tuning with Torrie, and one of the tunes he told me to roll back because "KR" was too high.

When looking at the two data logs in question, I was at +5 KR @ 60MPH on the 0-60 (87P) file and at the equivalent speed on the 0-100 file (87P1), I was at +2.75 KR.

It was recommended to roll back to the 0-60 (87P) tune, and I'm trying to understand why (since this appears to have higher KR than the other tune). Can someone please school me on KR? :)

EDIT: Removed 0-100MPH 87P1 data log and replaced with 0-60 87P1 log for more apples-to-apples comparison.
 
When you see positive knock numbers it is pulling timing because it is sensing incipient knock..

When you see negative knock numbers it is adding timing until it senses incipient knock...

The knock sensor just searches for the beginning or the start of knock... It adds or removes timing accordingly..

Negative knock reading  = good
Positive knock reading = bad
 
SHOdded said:
Fuel pump percentage > 100???  Weird ...  Load is also weird ...

Ha, yeah, can't answer the question on the fuel pump percentage. It has been consistently reading over 100 ever since I started data logging with the SCT. I thought that was strange, too.

Is one load particularly weird over another? For the 0-100 pull I was on a stretch of road that wasn't very flat. I'm thinking that variation might be the uphill/downhill. I've since started running just 0-60 on a flatter road section for improved consistency. I can re-run the 87P1 tune 0-60 on a flat stretch, if that will help.


StealBlueSho said:
When you see positive knock numbers it is pulling timing because it is sensing incipient knock..

When you see negative knock numbers it is adding timing until it senses incipient knock...

The knock sensor just searches for the beginning or the start of knock... It adds or removes timing accordingly..

Negative knock reading  = good
Positive knock reading = bad

This was my impression based on the reading I had done, which is why I was confused that it was recommended to run the 87P tune over the 87P1 tune, since the 87P1 has much less KR at 60 mph.

Is there something else I'm missing on the 87P tune that would make it preferred over the 87P1? Thanks for the feedback, guys!
 
Lots of knock in both tunes... Like through the entire run..I wouldn't be happy with either tune...how are your plugs?
 
StealBlueSho said:
Lots of knock in both tunes... Like through the entire run..I wouldn't be happy with either tune...how are your plugs?

I just went out and re-ran the 87P1 tune from 0-60 on a flat section of road (removed the 0-100 87P1 datalog). Under WOT, I peaked at +2.5.

Plugs are brand spanking new NGK (1 step cooler) that I received from Torrie. gapped at 0.030" per his recommendations.
 
It's a bit normal to have some knock readings... At least on the stock tune.... Dunno.. you guys already on winter blended gas? Might be some of it...
 
StealBlueSho said:
It's a bit normal to have some knock readings... At least on the stock tune.... Dunno.. you guys already on winter blended gas? Might be some of it...

Hmm, good question. I'm not sure. It's about that time of year.
 
Does 87P mean you are tuning for 87 octane?  I don't think there's been much success tuning with 87.  The car from the factory is pretty close to on the edge for cheap fuel.

If 93, what brand?  There are significant differences between top tier and no-name.
 
sholxgt said:
Does 87P mean you are tuning for 87 octane?  I don't think there's been much success tuning with 87.  The car from the factory is pretty close to on the edge for cheap fuel.

If 93, what brand?  There are significant differences between top tier and no-name.

Yeah, the 87P is an 87 octane "performance" tune. I'm also working with Torrie on an 87T "tow" tune. I have a 93P "performance" tune on deck once I finish up with the 87 tunes.

I primarily buy my fuel at Costco (87 and 93 top tier, high volume) or BP.
 
StealBlueSho said:
It's a bit normal to have some knock readings... At least on the stock tune.... Dunno.. you guys already on winter blended gas? Might be some of it...

It looks like September 15 was the eligible sale date for winter blend fuels in 2016, and being in Wisconsin, I'm guessing that's what's been in my tank for some time.

I went back and looked at a 4th gear WOT pull on my OE tune with 87 octane and I went from +7.5 KR down to +5.0 over the course of the pull. Yikes. The stock plugs looked pretty good when I pulled them out @ ~32000 miles. No signs of peppering.

I'm going to pump in some 93 and see if that eliminates the knock, so I can try to get confirmation that fuel is the culprit.
 
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