Another 2013+ leaking valve cover...

ecoboostsho said:
Well that's more than I would have thought...
Thats a rough estimate,cause the parts alone are well over 200.00 based on fordparts.com which is retail.. Z
 
I have had my rear center cylinder spark plug well seal replaced twice now under warranty.  Can't wait for it to slide out of place and leak again.  I suggested that they change the valve cover, etc but of course what do I know.
 
Just to clear something up the back cylinder bank plugs are 1,2,3 and NOT 4,5,6.  I mistakenly referenced the #6 plug to my dealer as the one that was leaking - well he called me up and said it was dry. A brief and embarrassing discussion ensued as I described which plug was actually leaking (rear bank - driver side) The number 6 plug is on the FRONT bank of the car...the rear drivers side plug is actually #3!!  I've seen it referenced multiple times incorrectly on this site which is why I said #6 myself.  So now my dealer is going to look at it again...Oops.  Hope this helps someone in the future.
 
Since 2010-12's also have leaks, are they in the same spot?  I have seen #6 referenced before for the Gen 4.1 ...
 
Good question.  I just got a call back from the dealer and they did indeed find the leak where I described (the #3 cylinder!) so they are going to replace the gasket, valve cover and the do the PVC oil TSB at the same time.  Unfortunately they need to keep it overnight to get parts but that wasn't a surprise given the earlier discussion in this thread so I should be good to go.

I was able to find a thread from a long time ago detailing out the correct firing order/cylinder orientation that indicated the 1,2,3 cylinders are in the back bank but I closed the window and I literally can't find it again in my search...it's driving me crazy!
 
ecoboostsho said:
Good question.  I just got a call back from the dealer and they did indeed find the leak where I described (the #3 cylinder!) so they are going to replace the gasket, valve cover and the do the PVC oil TSB at the same time.  Unfortunately they need to keep it overnight to get parts but that wasn't a surprise given the earlier discussion in this thread so I should be good to go.

I was able to find a thread from a long time ago detailing out the correct firing order/cylinder orientation that indicated the 1,2,3 cylinders are in the back bank but I closed the window and I literally can't find it again in my search...it's driving me crazy!
I guess the PVC should also be corrected to PCV.LOL.  Z
 
Just got my car back after two days of inspection-also had a few recalls performed but no oil on my plugs and no leaks were found. Now time to clean all the technician grime and smudges!
 
anthonylee337 said:
Just got my car back after two days of inspection-also had a few recalls performed but no oil on my plugs and no leaks were found. Now time to clean all the technician grime and smudges!
I'm a bit confused,did you notice any leaks or any issues making you want to take it to the dealer. Z
 
Turned out to be nothing but some engine grime but definitely not oil-I have several friends that work at the dealership so they read up on the TSB and wanted to inspect my car for at least a day. All plugs were checked and the entire car from engine to underbelly was checked for leaks. They also know about my tune so service was reluctant to perform the power steering recall because they won't hook up anything to my computer so that was inspected and passed all tests. I am relieved that nothing had to be changed or repaired so it looks like I got lucky for once.
 
These cars have an oil seperator with a baffle mounted on the rear valve cover and its held down by two 8m bolts,you can always check to see how much oil buildup in inside and clean it out,its similiar to an oil catch can which needs emptying,BTW there is only two 8mm bolts,there is no rear bolt by the firewall,its only a clip. Z
 
After running my still stock car for a few days after getting it back from having the leak fixed I noticed it felt slower...not slow but not like it should. I checked the LOR thinking maybe they reset the computer but that was fine at -1. I then looked at my other Torque gauges and realized the Max boost the car had seen over the last two days was about 5 psi.  I immediately thought that was odd because I know I had floored it earlier. I scanned it with torque and it said no DTCs but the PID that reads how many DTCs said one was set. I fired up FORSCAN and it immediately pulled a P0299 which is an underboost condition. Great... I thought. I checked all the piping and clamps but couldn't really find anything. I reset it and took it for a drive but same behavior and the code came right back. Popped the hood again and noticed the nut holding the top charge pipe was missing but whole annoying didn't see how that could be my problem. I started checking for loose connectors and then I saw a small connector hanging down and it was pretty clear it was unplugged. I honestly don't know now what this sensor is called but I think it compares boost levels from the intake and the manifold or maybe does something to the wastegate ultimately?? (Anyone know for sure) its the one in this pic with all the small hoses and clamps coming out of it right up front. (Not the MAP sensor you swap out for a tune).
2119eb373dbf7126252129c537c10152.jpg


Once I plugged it in and cleared the codes it ran great and all my boost is back! I've had great service from this dealer in the past so maybe I just got a bad tech...yikes.

Somewhere out there there is a stock Dodge Charger R/T that thinks his car is way faster than my SHO (happened earlier in the day which is what got me wondering if something was wrong).  I want a rematch! :)
 
So many connections to take care of nowadays!  Got a part number by any chance, EBay or dealer sites would make it easy to look up.
 
The wategate hoses have quite a few mechanisms that operate it,1)solenoid valve,there is a coil on the valve,3)actuator itself,if there is a over boost condition detected the ECU will kind of cut power to the car and store a dtc,BTW the dealer owe's you a 10mm nut,can try to get the part # for you later. Z
 
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