Disappointing Power
- Thread starter POPSTAGE2
- Start date
BiGMaC said:Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
The HotPipe Kit several members have and use here come with T-bolt clamps for all connection points . No problems with there use and no one else had any that I am aware of .
SwampRat said:BiGMaC said:Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
The HotPipe Kit several members have and use here come with T-bolt clamps for all connection points . No problems with there use and no one else had any that I am aware of .
Likely not long enough... Like the article on the radiator connections says...
BiGMaC said:SwampRat said:BiGMaC said:Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
The HotPipe Kit several members have and use here come with T-bolt clamps for all connection points . No problems with there use and no one else had any that I am aware of .
Likely not long enough... Like the article on the radiator connections says...
Highly doubting this is an issue on the IC port connections and I
TRUST Mike's judgement on the inclusion of T bolt clamps in the kit .
OEM clamps for the entire plumbing of OEM CAC system are screw type worm gear , except BOV clamps ... FYI
SwampRat said:BiGMaC said:SwampRat said:BiGMaC said:Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
The HotPipe Kit several members have and use here come with T-bolt clamps for all connection points . No problems with there use and no one else had any that I am aware of .
Likely not long enough... Like the article on the radiator connections says...
Highly doubting this is an issue on the IC port connections and I
TRUST Mike's judgement on the inclusion of T bolt clamps in the kit .
OEM clamps for the entire plumbing of OEM CAC system are screw type worm gear , except BOV clamps ... FYI
"Piping", of course, it technically not the radiator hose... subject of the article referenced... It is not a worm clamp.
Of course most of those CAC connections are not the topic of my post, nor are they like the connections to thick rigid plastic nipples like the radiator has but, instead are thin semi-rigid plastic pipe to semi-rigid plastic hose or to rubber hose....
I trust Mike's product too... never even implied otherwise...You'll remember I helped in the fitment of this product (hotpipes) for the SHO
I think the hotpipe IC connections likely will be fine.....
However ONLY passage of time will tell with certainty... as continued EB owners cars age, regardless of our discussion or opinions.
RealityCheck
New member
Brucelinc said:
My 2011 PP SHO had major torque steer stock. It was even more noticeable after I installed an LMS 93 octane stage 4 tune.
My 2013 EB Flex had major torque steer stock. It's even more noticeable after I installed a 93 octane Unleashed tune.
My 2014 PP SHO had major torque steer stock. It's even more noticeable after I installed a 93 octane Unleashed tune.
Several magazine tests have noted significant torque steer in AWD 3.5 Ecoboost vehicles.
Conclusion:
There are several possibilities. Folks who aren't experiencing torque steer are either:
1) Not fully utilizing the loud pedal, or
2) Don't know what torque steer is, or
3) Have serious engine problems, manifested by lack of power and minimal or non-existent torque steer
Try this. From a complete stop, take your hands off the steering wheel and stomp the gas pedal to the floor. If your car doesn't immediately shoot off the side of the road, something is wrong with your engine.
The OP said:
"when you nailed it at 55-60 mph the torque steer was incredible"
Different scenario than this:
"From a complete stop, take your hands off the steering wheel and stomp the gas pedal to the floor."
I guess everyone could have a different definition of "incredible." I wouldn't call the torque steer at 55-60 under WOT "incredible" in an MKS or SHO. Others have indicated that the Explorer Sport is worse in that regard.
By the way, we have a FWD Taurus SEL with the naturally aspirated 3.5 as well as the tuned MKS eco. The Taurus does 0-60 in about 7 seconds while the MKS does it in 4.2. Which one would you expect to have the most torque steer from a dig?
"when you nailed it at 55-60 mph the torque steer was incredible"
Different scenario than this:
"From a complete stop, take your hands off the steering wheel and stomp the gas pedal to the floor."
I guess everyone could have a different definition of "incredible." I wouldn't call the torque steer at 55-60 under WOT "incredible" in an MKS or SHO. Others have indicated that the Explorer Sport is worse in that regard.
By the way, we have a FWD Taurus SEL with the naturally aspirated 3.5 as well as the tuned MKS eco. The Taurus does 0-60 in about 7 seconds while the MKS does it in 4.2. Which one would you expect to have the most torque steer from a dig?
IHeartGroceries
New member
The torque steer SUCKS. It drives me nuts.
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IHeartGroceries
New member
Lol! So, torque steer is the nature of the beast now, is it?
Funny...seems to be a non issue on real sporty cars.
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Funny...seems to be a non issue on real sporty cars.
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black99lightning
New member
IHeartGroceries said:
I don't understand why you'd take your hand off the wheel on WOT acceleration, sounds dangerous to me.
IHeartGroceries
New member
Don't know why it's news to everyone that torque steer is an undesirable side effect is a sports car.
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panther427
New member
black99lightning said:
Aww come on and live I little. '
Also a fun past time is doing this at a rail road crossing and race to train..
Disclaimer bad idea.
Hmmm I'm not sure what is the issue. My 13 isn't really that bad at all. I prefer a bit of torque steer to breaking the tires free at 60mph. My 71 used to do that a lot, which I got used to. Still not fun when she would catch a rut in the road and try to come around on me. More powa means you need to adjust your driving style.
Especially when racing a train apparently
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Especially when racing a train apparently
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JimiJak said:POPSTAGE2 said:Ok JimiJak, had some time to take pics.
First pic is showing the oil that is always there everytime I take the RX breather off...anyone else have this issue?
http://[url=http://I]http://I[/url] have noticed that the base of my CSS is a bit oily at times, but nothing accumulating like yours is.
When I was in there re-routing the CSS to the airbox, I took some pics of the coalescing material, and the oil remaining in the bottom of the separator...what I didn't share was what I found when I took the coalescing material out:
[img width=400 height=265]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n6PPxck9sQU/U1ApxyfgbCI/AAAAAAAADdo/0fhN3KgHtm0/w782-h520-no/DSC_0186.JPG
There's an o-ring that helps to seal the bottom of the CSS. Mine was broke. The only reason I didn't post this at the time was because I talked to Tracy and he said that was the very first one of these he's seen broken.
Since it's a $0.99 O-ring...and everyone gets a bad part once in a while...I didn't feel it necessary to make people skeptical of his materials.
But, if you unscrew the top off your OCC, remove the coalescing material, and find the same thing...then maybe he ended up with a faulty batch of O-Rings, as it seems to be the appropriate size.
A new one is easily findable...got mine at AutoValue. They actually had it right up by the register.
*Edit:
when installing the new O-ring, make sure not to pull on the threaded base against the top. If you decide to remove the grommet from the bottom of the CSS, push the grommet out of the CSS from the top.
Bingo on the broken o-ring! Thanks JimiJak!
Just got back last night and had a chance to look at the cap before work this morning.
Will not have time to do anything else till later this week or weekend.
Lots of talk about torque steer! I stand by what I said and was just using that as a way of comparing the difference of power between the two. (and thats coming from an experienced drag racer)
[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/user/POPSTAGE2/media/PVCCAP003_zps0f2e022a.jpg.html]
Funny about the torque steer, I drove our 11 Explorer Limited on the weekend. It's been a while since I have, paying attention to the torque steer on it, it is more pronounced than my SHO. Which I found really weird, for 2 reasons. One is that the front end on the 2 are pretty similar. Mine being a Limited is a NA engine. So I would imagine that it would be even more pronounced on the Sport. Weird?
ShoBoat said:
Several posters have mentioned more torque steer in the Explorer. Our FWD Taurus SEL has more far more noticeable torque steer than my MKS ecoboost. Sending some power to the rear helps reduce the tendency to torque steer even in a FWD biased system like ours.
When people say they have horrible torque steer in a SHO, it makes me wonder if some cars send power to the rear sooner than others under WOT. Or, it could also be just a matter of not being used to a FWD biased system or maybe never driven a powerful FWD car. What is minor to some could be major to others.
