Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.![]()
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.![]()
BiGMaC said:Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.![]()
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
SwampRat said:BiGMaC said:Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.![]()
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
The HotPipe Kit several members have and use here come with T-bolt clamps for all connection points . No problems with there use and no one else had any that I am aware of .
BiGMaC said:SwampRat said:BiGMaC said:Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.![]()
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
The HotPipe Kit several members have and use here come with T-bolt clamps for all connection points . No problems with there use and no one else had any that I am aware of .
Likely not long enough... Like the article on the radiator connections says...
SwampRat said:BiGMaC said:SwampRat said:BiGMaC said:Needmoreboost said:I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.![]()
I agree!
This is the one exception. Plastic tubing connections nipples are engineered for the factory clamps.
The HotPipe Kit several members have and use here come with T-bolt clamps for all connection points . No problems with there use and no one else had any that I am aware of .
Likely not long enough... Like the article on the radiator connections says...
Highly doubting this is an issue on the IC port connections and I
TRUST Mike's judgement on the inclusion of T bolt clamps in the kit .
OEM clamps for the entire plumbing of OEM CAC system are screw type worm gear , except BOV clamps ... FYI
Brucelinc said:It will likely get better with more miles - with only 500 miles, everything is still pretty tight. As for torque steer, I am surprised that you found the 2013 to have "scary" torque steer. That makes me wonder if there was something wrong with it. You shouldn't experience much torque steer.
RealityCheck said:If your car doesn't immediately shoot off the side of the road, something is wrong with your engine.
IHeartGroceries said:Lol! So, torque steer is the nature of the beast now, is it?
Funny...seems to be a non issue on real sporty cars.
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black99lightning said:IHeartGroceries said:Lol! So, torque steer is the nature of the beast now, is it?
Funny...seems to be a non issue on real sporty cars.
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I don't understand why you'd take your hand off the wheel on WOT acceleration, sounds dangerous to me.
JimiJak said:POPSTAGE2 said:Ok JimiJak, had some time to take pics.
First pic is showing the oil that is always there everytime I take the RX breather off...anyone else have this issue?
http://[url=http://I]http://I[/url] have noticed that the base of my CSS is a bit oily at times, but nothing accumulating like yours is.
When I was in there re-routing the CSS to the airbox, I took some pics of the coalescing material, and the oil remaining in the bottom of the separator...what I didn't share was what I found when I took the coalescing material out:
[img width=400 height=265]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n6PPxck9sQU/U1ApxyfgbCI/AAAAAAAADdo/0fhN3KgHtm0/w782-h520-no/DSC_0186.JPG
There's an o-ring that helps to seal the bottom of the CSS. Mine was broke. The only reason I didn't post this at the time was because I talked to Tracy and he said that was the very first one of these he's seen broken.
Since it's a $0.99 O-ring...and everyone gets a bad part once in a while...I didn't feel it necessary to make people skeptical of his materials.
But, if you unscrew the top off your OCC, remove the coalescing material, and find the same thing...then maybe he ended up with a faulty batch of O-Rings, as it seems to be the appropriate size.
A new one is easily findable...got mine at AutoValue. They actually had it right up by the register.
*Edit:
when installing the new O-ring, make sure not to pull on the threaded base against the top. If you decide to remove the grommet from the bottom of the CSS, push the grommet out of the CSS from the top.
Bingo on the broken o-ring! Thanks JimiJak!
Just got back last night and had a chance to look at the cap before work this morning.
Will not have time to do anything else till later this week or weekend.
Lots of talk about torque steer! I stand by what I said and was just using that as a way of comparing the difference of power between the two. (and thats coming from an experienced drag racer)
[URL=http://s231.photobucket.com/user/POPSTAGE2/media/PVCCAP003_zps0f2e022a.jpg.html]
![]()
ShoBoat said:Funny about the torque steer, I drove our 11 Explorer Limited on the weekend. It's been a while since I have, paying attention to the torque steer on it, it is more pronounced than my SHO. Which I found really weird, for 2 reasons. One is that the front end on the 2 are pretty similar. Mine being a Limited is a NA engine. So I would imagine that it would be even more pronounced on the Sport. Weird?