Hey SBS! I am thinking of meth for intake cooling.. need your suggestions

lamrith said:
TopherSho said:
lamrith said:
TopherSho said:
Where is everyone mounting their tanks and pumps?  I crawled under mine last night and i can see space to install it if it tear half my front end off.. but the pump and cabling need space as well and i am not sure where i'd plant it all.
Click to expand...
Yeah it seems daunting, but from youtube and threads here removing the bumper cover is not that difficult from what I can tell...

Lot of guys seem to use the windshield washer tank as their meth tank.  Some share duty with WW, some retask the meth kit tank as the WW tank.  Lot depends on %meth and personal preference.  Over 50% I think can be harmful to paint/wipers??

I would think if planning use the WW tank as meth and not running 100% then maybe using a pair of hoses to link the two tanks together would be a way to increase overall volume on a budget.  Make the Sow tank a piggyback tank as it were.  Mount the Snow tank so that the bottom of it is above bottom of the stock tank.  Run a line from bottom of SNOW tank to near bottom of the stock tank using a grommet in stock tank.  Then run a line from top half of snow tank to top of the stock tank.  Maybe even have the connection on the stock tank higher than the snow tank to help purge air.  This way when you fill the main tank, the fluid will also fill over into the snow tank, increasing total capacity...

Crappy picture attached of what I tried to esplain...
Click to expand...

How do you plan on filling it in the fender? Are you going to neck it?
Click to expand...
Linking like I put in picture, I would not need to fill it in fender.

In terms of running separate systems I am still working out how I want to do it.  I am scouring the net looking at other tank options that might be adaptable.  Remote fill necks, OEM tanks that might fit, etc, etc...  Will advise once I figure something out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/192129527431?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Click to expand...

I know there is TONS of room in front of the AC H.E. but it would make the juice hot.  my thought is to remote mount in a cooler space..  colder juice,  slightly better cooling properties on evap.

 
TopherSho said:
lamrith said:
TopherSho said:
lamrith said:
TopherSho said:
Where is everyone mounting their tanks and pumps?  I crawled under mine last night and i can see space to install it if it tear half my front end off.. but the pump and cabling need space as well and i am not sure where i'd plant it all.
Click to expand...
Yeah it seems daunting, but from youtube and threads here removing the bumper cover is not that difficult from what I can tell...

Lot of guys seem to use the windshield washer tank as their meth tank.  Some share duty with WW, some retask the meth kit tank as the WW tank.  Lot depends on %meth and personal preference.  Over 50% I think can be harmful to paint/wipers??

I would think if planning use the WW tank as meth and not running 100% then maybe using a pair of hoses to link the two tanks together would be a way to increase overall volume on a budget.  Make the Sow tank a piggyback tank as it were.  Mount the Snow tank so that the bottom of it is above bottom of the stock tank.  Run a line from bottom of SNOW tank to near bottom of the stock tank using a grommet in stock tank.  Then run a line from top half of snow tank to top of the stock tank.  Maybe even have the connection on the stock tank higher than the snow tank to help purge air.  This way when you fill the main tank, the fluid will also fill over into the snow tank, increasing total capacity...

Crappy picture attached of what I tried to esplain...
Click to expand...

How do you plan on filling it in the fender? Are you going to neck it?
Click to expand...
Linking like I put in picture, I would not need to fill it in fender.

In terms of running separate systems I am still working out how I want to do it.  I am scouring the net looking at other tank options that might be adaptable.  Remote fill necks, OEM tanks that might fit, etc, etc...  Will advise once I figure something out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/192129527431?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Click to expand...

I know there is TONS of room in front of the AC H.E. but it would make the juice hot.  my thought is to remote mount in a cooler space..  colder juice,  slightly better cooling properties on evap.
Click to expand...
 

... in fact if remote install can be in the trunk I might toy with quick disconnects and a second tank (wait for it) ... in a small sytrofoam ice cooler with salted ice.  Crazy!?
 
TopherSho said:
I know there is TONS of room in front of the AC H.E. but it would make the juice hot.  my thought is to remote mount in a cooler space..  colder juice,  slightly better cooling properties on evap.
Click to expand...
My goal is to put on drivers side in front of wheel, just like the stock is on the passenger side.  maybe move the horns inboard where they mount to make more room.  Pump would go there too depending on tank setup.
 
lamrith said:
TopherSho said:
I know there is TONS of room in front of the AC H.E. but it would make the juice hot.  my thought is to remote mount in a cooler space..  colder juice,  slightly better cooling properties on evap.
Click to expand...
My goal is to put on drivers side in front of wheel, just like the stock is on the passenger side.  maybe move the horns inboard where they mount to make more room.  Pump would go there too depending on tank setup.
Click to expand...

My only fear of this is serviceability.  if I need to service the tank, i have to unpin the front of the car :(.  not exactly a roadside fixable.
 
@-TopherSho it seems that your primary goal is to lower under-hood temps which can easily be ascertained by installing a lower temp Stat such as a Reische 170-Stat for starter's and proceed from there!!. Z
 
ZSHO said:
@-TopherSho it seems that your primary goal is to lower under-hood temps which can easily be ascertained by installing a lower temp Stat such as a Reische 170-Stat for starter's and proceed from there!!. Z
Click to expand...

Did that about w weeks ago :).  However it does not help keep the IAT2 under 160.  If i'm idle in my drive way or in the lanes before lineup it creeps right back up.

It did however help with return lane temps,  and the lowered fan-temp does keep it cooler than the 170F i was seeing.

 
You probably don't even need meth, water would do. Mixed opinions on using blue washer fluid but again for cooling alone, it's really not rocket science.
 
TopherSho said:
ZSHO said:
@-TopherSho it seems that your primary goal is to lower under-hood temps which can easily be ascertained by installing a lower temp Stat such as a Reische 170-Stat for starter's and proceed from there!!. Z
Click to expand...

Did that about w weeks ago :).  However it does not help keep the IAT2 under 160.  If i'm idle in my drive way or in the lanes before lineup it creeps right back up.

It did however help with return lane temps,  and the lowered fan-temp does keep it cooler than the 170F i was seeing.
Click to expand...
Due update your signature . FYI 250.00 an hr from a local Speed shop is absolute B.S.(Highway Robbery)
I think 80.00-100.00 an hour is the average going rate IMO. Z
 
ZSHO said:
TopherSho said:
ZSHO said:
@-TopherSho it seems that your primary goal is to lower under-hood temps which can easily be ascertained by installing a lower temp Stat such as a Reische 170-Stat for starter's and proceed from there!!. Z
Click to expand...

Did that about w weeks ago :).  However it does not help keep the IAT2 under 160.  If i'm idle in my drive way or in the lanes before lineup it creeps right back up.

It did however help with return lane temps,  and the lowered fan-temp does keep it cooler than the 170F i was seeing.
Click to expand...
Due update your signature . FYI 250.00 an hr is absolute B.S.
I think 80.00-100.00 an hour is the average going rate IMO. Z
Click to expand...

Crap,  I swore I put the t-stat in there.  fixing ...
 
Think a plan is coming together now. 

I don't need the tank, I think i will re-use the existing washer bottle.  My thought is to t-off the outgoing line from the wash bottle,  and feed that second line to the pump.  The only issue will be that it is not gravity feed as listed on the site.. but i cant see it being a huge issue.  That solves where to store the goo.  Then i'll top off the washer filler with a locking cap of some sort so the dealership does not top it off with regular fluid.

I will replace the outgoing line from the tank to the t-junction with something better and stiffer that will not collapse if warm when under suction. 

From there the pump can be almost anywhere on the left hand side, which is ideal since the injection point will be in the collar right before the blade,  or grommet (despite my dislike of the rubber hose mounting) the rubber hose i will replace later. 

After that its all routing wires and deciding on how to tap the ?boost boost source? which is not very clear in the diagram.  How are people plugging into the boost to trigger the pressure switch?  or did everyone go with the 499$ kit and tap the IAT2/MAP 5v wire?

 
TopherSho said:
lamrith said:
TopherSho said:
I know there is TONS of room in front of the AC H.E. but it would make the juice hot.  my thought is to remote mount in a cooler space..  colder juice,  slightly better cooling properties on evap.
Click to expand...
My goal is to put on drivers side in front of wheel, just like the stock is on the passenger side.  maybe move the horns inboard where they mount to make more room.  Pump would go there too depending on tank setup.
Click to expand...

My only fear of this is serviceability.  if I need to service the tank, i have to unpin the front of the car :(.  not exactly a roadside fixable.
Click to expand...
Def something to at least think about, but it is not something I would personally put a ton of time or effort in designing an install around.  If tank breaks, leaks, pump dies, hose breaks, etc, those are not something you can fix on side of the road anyway even if they are easy to access.  If we were able to fix it, how many people will carry a jerry can of meth around all the time to refill the system in case after it is fixed?

Here is my contingency plan for system failures.  I plan to have a on/off switch someplace to just cut all power to the system and disable it completely.  I plan this for potential problems as well as to detune should someone else be driving the car.  I always have my SCT with me since I have livewire (I had X4 running guages 100% of time too) so if I do need to shut down or have system failure I flash a non meth tune in and continue on my way.  I think that is the best option to account for roadside issues, it is an add on optional system not needed for proper or safe operation, so just shut it off.  You can disable the Meth system and reflash a tune faster than you could probably figure out what was wrong with the system on the roadside.  Least that is my thoughts and plan for roadside fixes of the Meth kit...

I have a wife and kids that will drive the car sometimes, so I am even considering installing a lockable box in the engine bay to cover the on/off switch and/orn the meth fill port.  That way someone does not fill meth tank with WW fluid, or be curious about a switch and turn the system off wondering what it does.  Just not found a suitable donor box to do that with yet.  Meth tank fill is one I am most worried about.  I have keyed switches I can use for the power and mount about anyplace.
 
Yup a simple 2 poll switch on the 12v will do that for a shut off.  As to break fixing I think well see more issues with leaks than hardware failures.  So the ability to pop the hood and tighten lines would be ideal.   

If the pump dies well it solves itself ;) and just stops working.

 
I got interested in this too. I'm at $112 (snow performance) in parts and still looking at pumps. Since we have plastic piping, is a meth nozzle adapter required? or is there enough plastic to thread in the nozzle?

 
TopherSho said:
Think a plan is coming together now. 

I don't need the tank, I think i will re-use the existing washer bottle.  My thought is to t-off the outgoing line from the wash bottle,  and feed that second line to the pump.  The only issue will be that it is not gravity feed as listed on the site.. but i cant see it being a huge issue.  That solves where to store the goo.  Then i'll top off the washer filler with a locking cap of some sort so the dealership does not top it off with regular fluid.

I will replace the outgoing line from the tank to the t-junction with something better and stiffer that will not collapse if warm when under suction. 

From there the pump can be almost anywhere on the left hand side, which is ideal since the injection point will be in the collar right before the blade,  or grommet (despite my dislike of the rubber hose mounting) the rubber hose i will replace later. 

After that its all routing wires and deciding on how to tap the ?boost boost source? which is not very clear in the diagram.  How are people plugging into the boost to trigger the pressure switch?  or did everyone go with the 499$ kit and tap the IAT2/MAP 5v wire?
Click to expand...
Lots of people use the stock washer tank for both so you are good to go there.  Not sure about the T off the stock setup.  I would want a dedicated feed line from tank to pump.  You will still want to install a low level warning sensor as well or do you plan to just let the dash idiot lite do that?
You can probably mount the pump on the right side next to the washer tank since you are using the OEM washer tank.  The pump is big but not that big.  I can get you rough dimensions tonight since mine is in the box under my desk.  Then you do not have to run hoses back and forth.

I can't help on the reference point since I went MAP and have not even installed it yet.

TopherSho said:
Yup a simple 2 poll switch on the 12v will do that for a shut off.  As to break fixing I think well see more issues with leaks than hardware failures.  So the ability to pop the hood and tighten lines would be ideal.   

If the pump dies well it solves itself ;) and just stops working.
Click to expand...
Yeah I am just thinking of using keyed switches I have from another project.  No extra $ spent and keeps people from fiddling with things they shouldn't! :bangin:

Yea dead pump not much you can do.  Still need to make sure to retune the car though, and since I always have tuner I just plan on not even fiddling with meth system on side of road regardless of what is wrong with it.  But that's just me, I am usually on a schedule when I am driving around and no time to tinker. 
 
polskifacet said:
I got interested in this too. I'm at $112 (snow performance) in parts and still looking at pumps. Since we have plastic piping, is a meth nozzle adapter required? or is there enough plastic to thread in the nozzle?
Click to expand...
From what I have read recently the plastic in the stock piping by the TB is not thick enough to hold the nozzle.  I thought that is what everyone did, but a recent thread the nozzle immediately pulled out of the plastic.  I am thinking I will use the SNOW grommet they make for silicon tubing just to be safe.
 
    Ok..... here is another set of my opinions....

I used my current WW tank for meth fluid, and used the supplied tank in the kit for WW fluid.. yes, I moved the WW pump to the new tank...

If I had to do it again... I would mount the pump and tank in the trunk... yes it's further away... yes it costs a bit more in fuel lines... HOWEVER... it stay s much cooler back there. If something leaks, it's not right in the hot engine bay... also I wouldn't need to take the front clip off to service the pump... and I could use a bigger meth tank vs the ww reservoir...

Also, the stock plastic charge pipe is fine, at least with the Alky Control Kit... I can't speak for the other kits nozzles...

If he pipe can hold that dumbass noise maker, it can hold a nozzle... you  just need to be precise when making the hole. I had to the thread the nozzle into the plastic hole I drilled, then it has a washer on both sides for support. No issues yet... and with the tuning I have been doing.. if it was gonna let loose it would have done so.

Look at BPDs how too, it is very good. Also, tap into the wiring on the stock MAP harness on the intake manifold for boost reference. It's THE best way to do it. BPDs instructions are solid on what to do for that...

Anyway... good luck!!
 
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