*HOW-TO* 2013+ Brakes on a 2010-2012...THEY WORK!!
- Thread starter timbo
- Start date
Bosscav said:
Not so worried about the mess. Since I am alone and don't have help to bleed the brakes, I will likely take to a friends shop and let him do the work that requires opening brake lines.
So I will probably buy all parts including calipers then have him install at once. Long as everything is a straight bolt in he will only charge me maybe $100 labor
The master and booster will cost less than $250. The front brake setup I put together cost about $475. It is not the PP brakes, but you can get a lot of different pads, so the PP are not necessary for "performance" oriented drivers. I ended up with the Raybestos Hybrid pads (EHT) and they seem to work very well with Raybestos Advanced Tech rotors. I have the rear brakes too that I will be putting on in a week or so, when I get some time. I'm also looking at putting some braided lines together, but that's for later.
Got the rear done and posted in the original post.
Impressions: I was not expecting the rears to be doing as much work as they really did. I had the stock metallic PP ones on the rear with the upgraded rotors, and they really didn't do much. I put the 2013+ rears with the EHT pads and holy crap do my rear brakes actually work. I find myself braking much later and I surprise myself when I hit the brakes. They are far more responsive and much better with the heat. I recommend this to anyone with the earlier brakes. Next upgrade will be some DOT teflon/SS braided hoses, but that will be next year.
Impressions: I was not expecting the rears to be doing as much work as they really did. I had the stock metallic PP ones on the rear with the upgraded rotors, and they really didn't do much. I put the 2013+ rears with the EHT pads and holy crap do my rear brakes actually work. I find myself braking much later and I surprise myself when I hit the brakes. They are far more responsive and much better with the heat. I recommend this to anyone with the earlier brakes. Next upgrade will be some DOT teflon/SS braided hoses, but that will be next year.
timbo said:
Have to draw the line somewhere....need to stay south of 50 grand....its a small niche market...i would say the members of this forum dont represent the norm owner of this car...i see alot of old fuddy duds in these sho's that couldnt care less if there were brembos on it
Hey now! Lincoln's for young whippersnappers too! As far as Ford not providing the upmarket brakes, they obviously didn't think that the economics are there for them to get into that area. They want to do what they do best, and RFP out the rest. Works for me! I mean if we as consumers are just given all the solutions, where would we, as enthusiasts, get to showcase our ideas & skills with DIY? 
Caliper piston areas are the same between the 2 setups, so the feel would be identical. Should work fine, but I recommend forking over for the upgraded master cylinder/booster.Blackhawk said:
2010-2012 Master cylinder bore is 1-1/16" (1.062)
2013+ has differential bore at 1.537 Front and 1.125 rear. That is how it has so much better feel and how it's much more responsive.
One might also consider changing the rotor for a '13+ style. That would give you the whole package... Which amounts to 60% more swept area at a larger radius which should increase braking. That might need the master cylinder swap.FoMoCoSHO said:
The OEM brakes on my '13 are adequate and do have some bite, but a high speed quick stop is still nerve wracking in a 4400lb car from 80+ mph... I will be upgrading as soon as it's time for pads.
Sorry BigMac, I thought he was referring to the whole package.BiGMaC said:
I'm not sure adequate is a fair adjective for gen 4.2. 60-0 is 106 ft.
http://www.motortrend.com/news/2013-ford-taurus-sho-performance-package-first-test/
Now to put this in perspective...
http://www.motortrend.com/news/22-cars-that-stop-from-mph-in-less-than-100-feet/
And this...
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2012/02/2012-annual-auto-issue-best-cars-for-braking/index.htm
And this...
http://www.motortrend.com/news/20-best-60-to-0-distances-recorded/
Personally I think the brakes perform pretty darn well. 5 ft more than a 2013 GT500? I'm good with that. Beyond a possible pad swap and some stickier tires to enhance performance its very hard for me to justify the outlay for a BBK setup. I'm skeptical about non OEM rotors as well. I don't want another expensive lesson where the Ford engineers made the best tool for the job (CAI)
I think the 4.1-4.2 full upgrade represents an awesome value for the level of performance you end up with. Going past that the law of diminishing returns may rear its ugly head. I'd love to see some instrumented testing of the uber expensive Wilwood setup.