How-to optimize drag results

pejohnson said:
Should I take the under belly shield off?  I know at high speeds people have experienced hood vibration. Not sure if would happen or not at the strip. Thought by removing it might help with engine temps.


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Good question. Maybe extra drag would be created by removing this. Some have removed the plastic strip along the back of the hood where it meets the windshield. Might be a better option to avoid extra drag and the possible hood shake.

Rich

 
I would back Rich's comment about the plastic strip.  Getting rid of heat effectively will probably be a better approach for the drag strip.
 
SHOnUup said:
pejohnson said:
Should I take the under belly shield off?  I know at high speeds people have experienced hood vibration. Not sure if would happen or not at the strip. Thought by removing it might help with engine temps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good question. Maybe extra drag would be created by removing this. Some have removed the plastic strip along the back of the hood where it meets the windshield. Might be a better option to avoid extra drag and the possible hood shake.

Rich

Removal of the rubber seal at the back of the hood/firewall has been a good experience for me. No noticeable water intrusion at all and coupled with the engine cover removal, I have achieved a real measurable IAT2 temp drop. 
 
Would like to defer the above mentioned credit to Larry, (thx though) as I'm pretty sure he was the one with this clever idea.

Rich

 
So newby to the SHO and AWD launching here, hoping to get a little clarification on the boost brake launch.

As soon as you go green and let off brake do you plant the throttle or roll into it at same time you let off brake?

I know when I have been trying to datalog if I just mat it, it tends to spin allot more than rolling into it.  That is usually colder road vs prepped track though.
 
lamrith said:
So newby to the SHO and AWD launching here, hoping to get a little clarification on the boost brake launch.

As soon as you go green and let off brake do you plant the throttle or roll into it at same time you let off brake?

I know when I have been trying to datalog if I just mat it, it tends to spin allot more than rolling into it.  That is usually colder road vs prepped track though.

I got better results by putting it to the floor when launching, I would brake boost between 2000-2200 RPM, and on the 3rd yellow, let out of the brake and simultaneously floor it. This got pretty good reaction times, and nice 60' times with all season tires (1.7-1.9).
 
lamrith said:
So newby to the SHO and AWD launching here, hoping to get a little clarification on the boost brake launch.

As soon as you go green and let off brake do you plant the throttle or roll into it at same time you let off brake?

I know when I have been trying to datalog if I just mat it, it tends to spin allot more than rolling into it.  That is usually colder road vs prepped track though.

--avoid gravel, dirt, water at all costs.
--slowly drive into the box, and super creep to get the second stage light lit without rolling any further into it.
--brake hard
--push the gas so the rpm is 1900-2000 (for me).  keep it STEADY at that rpm.  The SOONER you can start this the better as you are low speed spooling the compressor.  With the compressor already spinning you have taken some of the inertia penalty away from the launch.
--wait for light number 3 on the full tree to light up.. this is 500ms between each light.  so,  yellow, yellow, yellow and go! BEFORE green.  100% stab\murder the gas pedal while releasing the brake.  do this simultaneously and as lightning fast as you can.
--hang on

** LANE ETIQUETTE!  *remember* 
-Know where the exit is... this is critical to not getting thrown off the track.  If the exit is on your LEFT,  and you are in the RIGHT lane. DO NOT CROSS THE LANES until the left car has exited FULLY.  And if the exit is on the RIGHT, and you are in the left lane do not cross the right lane until the right lane has fully exited.
-make eye contact with the lightman when lining up. its polite. and you will be able to communicate more.
-bring pants.
-bring shoes, no sandles
-bring a HELMET,  SNELL SA2010 or better (and yes there expensive-ish), Not a SNEL M2010 helmet although some tracks do not inspect that close, but if they do a M rated helmet is not the same as a SA rated helmet. 

 
TopherSho said:
lamrith said:
So newby to the SHO and AWD launching here, hoping to get a little clarification on the boost brake launch.

As soon as you go green and let off brake do you plant the throttle or roll into it at same time you let off brake?

I know when I have been trying to datalog if I just mat it, it tends to spin allot more than rolling into it.  That is usually colder road vs prepped track though.

--avoid gravel, dirt, water at all costs.
--slowly drive into the box, and super creep to get the second stage light lit without rolling any further into it.
--brake hard
--push the gas so the rpm is 1900-2000 (for me).  keep it STEADY at that rpm.  The SOONER you can start this the better as you are low speed spooling the compressor.  With the compressor already spinning you have taken some of the inertia penalty away from the launch.
--wait for light number 3 on the full tree to light up.. this is 500ms between each light.  so,  yellow, yellow, yellow and go! BEFORE green.  100% stab\murder the gas pedal while releasing the brake.  do this simultaneously and as lightning fast as you can.
--hang on

** LANE ETIQUETTE!  *remember* 
-Know where the exit is... this is critical to not getting thrown off the track.  If the exit is on your LEFT,  and you are in the RIGHT lane. DO NOT CROSS THE LANES until the left car has exited FULLY.  And if the exit is on the RIGHT, and you are in the left lane do not cross the right lane until the right lane has fully exited.
-make eye contact with the lightman when lining up. its polite. and you will be able to communicate more.
-bring pants.
-bring shoes, no sandles
-bring a HELMET,  SNELL SA2010 or better (and yes there expensive-ish), Not a SNEL M2010 helmet although some tracks do not inspect that close, but if they do a M rated helmet is not the same as a SA rated helmet.

Awesome stuff. Great to know.
 
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