"How-To" PTU Fluid Exchange - glock-coma

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SHOdded

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Originally posted by glock-coma

Changed PTU fluid
#1
04-23-2013, 02:23 PM
I changed my PTU fluid this past weekend.

26,000 miles, It looked pretty bad. Replaced it with redline 75-w140.

Here's some pics.

I accessed the fill plug through the passenger side wheel well.
index.php

index.php

I used an impact driver with some 3/8" extension bars connected together
To remove/install the plug
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PTU fluid at 26,000 miles. I was only able to remove about 13oz via oil extractor.
The cover plate must be pretty close to the gears. There was very little room to maneuver the siphon hose.
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When I do this again, I'll do it from underneath the car. Seems to be enough access.
You can see the plug with the red thread sealant.
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Here's a pic of the PTU part number.
index.php


04-23-2013, 10:00 PM
Originally posted by interceptor View Post
What does Ford recommend for a change interval? 100k? Hard to believe if it looks that bad after 26k.
Click to expand...
According to ford it's a "lifetime fluid". I would guess that means factory warranty + 1 mile.

The fords repair manual it says it only needs to be changed if contaminated.

04-26-2013, 06:45 AM
I found this over @fordflex.net

"By the way fresh Motorcraft synthetic 75W-140 fluid is clear and it pours easily even when cold."

http://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9334

04-27-2013, 12:40 PM
Here's the product data sheet.

It's $31.76 per quart from amazon.......it better be good
index.php

Last edited by glock-coma; 04-27-2013, 12:44 PM.
 
Some additional info:

04-03-2013, 03:15 PM by racerx78
The PTU fluid is a 75w-140 GL5.

04-03-2013, 03:37 PM by Crash712us
Mighty mini vac with brake bleed kit is what I did.

04-03-2013, 03:46 PM by 83racecrew
It (Mityvac) puts a reservoir in front of the vac so you don't suck the fluid into the vac.

Like this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_22973737-P_x_x
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/mityvac-automotive-brake-bleeding-kit-mitmv8020/22973737-P

The fluid ends up in that little reservoir, before it would enter into the vacuum pump.

04-03-2013, 03:55 PM by Crash712us
Thank you racecrew. Here is a link of what you need.

Check this out on AMZN: OEM 25136 Vacuum Pump http://amzn.com/B000CMDPBM

04-03-2013, 06:26 PM by pacoflyer
What is the best method to get at the fill plug on the PTU? I hear removing RF wheel and inner fender? Is this correct?

04-03-2013, 06:32 PM by Crash712us
Paco either one will work brake bleeder kit isn't need for these pumps to suck out PTU. But the problem I do see with these is they are large, and you already said you don't have a lift or jack stands. The car will need to be level so not to over fill PTU, I did mine with the small hand pump as in the amazon link above. I had to empty the cup a couple times in my oil drain pan as it only holds about 8oz. I also had the car level on 4 jack stands. As for tool I don't remember the size of hex plug in PTU but use a couple 3/8" 9" extensions and ratchet and that gave me plenty of room to wrench the plug as my ratchet was just inside the passenger front wheel.

04-06-2013, 08:15 AM by Crash712us
Originally posted by bpd1151 View Post
What you guys are forgetting, is that the purchase of your pump, or vacuum contraption, or what have you......

That item alone is a one time cost.

Fluid ran me like $16 for the Royal Purple.

So your initial costs may be higher than desired, however, the long term benefit will be that you can perform this fluid swap whenever you chose to, from that point forward, and really only be out let's say $20 for fluid on the high end.

crash712us did his in his garage, so although having a lift would make it obviously a helluva lot easier, it's certainly not necessary.
Click to expand...
Yes a lift would have made much easier, in fact not having a lift was the hardest part of the job. Having to squeeze my big under there and twist and contort my arms to do. Will be doing on my buddies lift from now on, will turn this hour long job into a 15min job.

04-12-2013, 03:04 AM by bpd1151
Originally posted by shomeda$ View Post
Does the rear end use the same fluid????
Click to expand...
Differential gets 75w-90

PTU gets 75w-140
 
I had mine done by my dealer who also did the B&G service to the PTU...said the fluid didn't look great and that it was a good idea to have it changed.  My car had roughly 25,150 miles when the service was done in late November.
 
Do you have an invoice or something that provides details of the B&G service for the PTU?  I'd be interested seeing as how that SHOULD get all the gunk out (with the usual caveat when NOT to "flush" something :) ).  TIA!
 
2013 Service manual instructions kindly put up by a member on here:
308-07B Transfer Case — Power Transfer Unit (PTU)
 
^Wow, that's fantastic. Thanks to whoever shared that and thanks for linking it. I figured that is what'd it'd come to, with the cooler equipped cars (removing cat and temp sensor). Has anybody with a cooler attempted this service, using this guide from the shop manual?

I'll be doing once it warms a tad. Thinking March or so. I'll still be under 20K miles by then. And you can bet ill be sending a sample off for UOA. Should be pretty interesting.
 
SHOdded said:
2013 Service manual instructions kindly put up by a member on here:
308-07B Transfer Case — Power Transfer Unit (PTU)
Click to expand...

Could I use the same info on my 2011 or are the instructions different?

Thanks,
Z
 
AFAIK, you should be able to directly use the instructions in this HOW TO.  The cooling & temp sensor were added to the 2013+ models.
 
Ive never used b&g services before, ive found some volkswagen dealers and a fountain tire listed on the locate a dealer but are all these places like fountain tire any good at stuff like this?
 
Has anyone sent in samples for a UOA at Blackstone to check on the condition of the oil at say, 20k-30k miles? I've changed out rear differentials where the oil came out pitch black with lots of metal wear, but that was considered normal due to the nature of the environment so we can't really go by the Mk 1 eyeball...

Serious question: Even if we are running more power than stock, how would that put more stress on the PTU unless you are somehow WOT while turning (like on a road racing course or SCCA)? It looks basically like a mini open differential... But the Mitsubishi Evo guys have a similar situation with their PTU and they run either Mitsubishi oil or 75W-90 (their specs are a bit different), and they seem to agree with the shorter change intervals as well.
 
I think you should attempt to prove how good the ford factory fill is....its a lifetime fluid in the ptu no need to change....just like non synthetic is fine with a fram filter as is 87 octane....it would help the community if you could debunk the myth that a ptu oil change is required
 
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