panther427
New member
ya you gotta let the car cool to check the fluid level. takes a while to do.
Took car for ride yesterday and under very light (if any throttle) the temp would rise quickly. Coolant temp was hitting 200* so I got worried and shut it down. Heat was warm at the time. Let it cool down and started the idle process with heat on and cap off with no luck of coolant being ingested, bubbles, or warm heat.
Tried again today and still nothing. I thought these aftermarket tstat' s had a fail safe if they didn't work properly they would revert to open?
Tried again today and still nothing. I thought these aftermarket tstat' s had a fail safe if they didn't work properly they would revert to open?
Bubbles will be named if they appear, lol, like rare, about damn time, and wtf. I tried squeezing hoses (while capped) with no luck. Gonna wait until it cools off later tonight and pull tstat and check it's activity in boiling water.
Could losing to much coolant during the re-orrientation of tstat leave it unable to open as the air may be holding the coolant back (wild guess)from getting to it?
Could losing to much coolant during the re-orrientation of tstat leave it unable to open as the air may be holding the coolant back (wild guess)from getting to it?
Quote:
AIR POCKET DAMAGE
One of the most common causes of localized hot spots is air in the cooling system. Air pockets can form when the cooling system is being refilled after a coolant change or when other engine repairs are being made (valve job, replacing a water pump, thermostat, etc.). As coolant is being poured into the radiator, the thermostat often blocks the venting of air from the engine leaving air trapped in the upper portion of the block and/or heads. Some thermostats have a small bleed hole or jiggle pin to prevent this from happening, but many do not. Some engines also have special bleeder valves on the thermostat housing or elsewhere to help vent trapped air from the system.
If the trapped air isn’t removed, it may cause localized hot spots to form when the engine is started. The trapped air may also prevent the thermostat from opening and cause the engine to overheat. That, in turn, may lead to additional damage such as head cracking or warping. Another symptom of air trapped in the cooling system would be little or no heat output from the heater when the engine is warm.
Try squeezing the hoses with the radiator cap removed after the car has cooled down to ambient.
AIR POCKET DAMAGE
One of the most common causes of localized hot spots is air in the cooling system. Air pockets can form when the cooling system is being refilled after a coolant change or when other engine repairs are being made (valve job, replacing a water pump, thermostat, etc.). As coolant is being poured into the radiator, the thermostat often blocks the venting of air from the engine leaving air trapped in the upper portion of the block and/or heads. Some thermostats have a small bleed hole or jiggle pin to prevent this from happening, but many do not. Some engines also have special bleeder valves on the thermostat housing or elsewhere to help vent trapped air from the system.
If the trapped air isn’t removed, it may cause localized hot spots to form when the engine is started. The trapped air may also prevent the thermostat from opening and cause the engine to overheat. That, in turn, may lead to additional damage such as head cracking or warping. Another symptom of air trapped in the cooling system would be little or no heat output from the heater when the engine is warm.
Try squeezing the hoses with the radiator cap removed after the car has cooled down to ambient.
Much appreciated tips. Being very cautious with this and not letting the temps get over 200. I was squeezing the hoses(capped, via ford site, and uncapped prior) while it was warmed up, so as it cools down tonight will try it cooled down.
The easy seeming straight forward jobs have a problem with me for some reason. When first installed, no problem. Stupid curiosity about the jiggle pin has proved to be a PIA.
The easy seeming straight forward jobs have a problem with me for some reason. When first installed, no problem. Stupid curiosity about the jiggle pin has proved to be a PIA.
I had the same thing with the 160 TS I tried. The intake hose prior to TS was ice cold but engine temps would go over 200 at idle. It would eventually open and cool down in the 160's but eventually repeat it self. Other's have not had problems though.
I went back to 170 TS and it runs consistently 178-184 In the summer, sometimes a little cooler. I was told it was air, which in your case it may be, but I re-installed stock, 170 and 160 a couple times over and never had an issue with stock or 170.
Just my 2 cents
I went back to 170 TS and it runs consistently 178-184 In the summer, sometimes a little cooler. I was told it was air, which in your case it may be, but I re-installed stock, 170 and 160 a couple times over and never had an issue with stock or 170.
Just my 2 cents
Thx for the input. Any info is helpful in easing the stress. What's weird is my temps would hover at the 190* range with this 160 tstat. That i thought was high for a mediocre temp summer in Michigan. So I investigated the jiggle valve position...oops, now it's worse. Almost cool enough to pull out I think.JMR76 said:
