"How to" T Stat Install-DJE624

  • Thread starter Thread starter DJE624
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SHOdded said:
Quite likely it is OK, but if you don't mind running the experiment again, we can establish the temp at which it actually starts opening :)
Have it back in car. As it warms up I'm pumping cold air out of defrost that doesn't warm until I give it some rpm's. As I give it throttle (nothing over 2250 rpms) the heat warms and coolant temps drop. Looks like it sucked in a little coolant but not much. Just turned off to let cool and try cycle again.
 
When you do that (cooled off), have the radiator cap off and the right side higher than the left (curb/jack/etc).  Make the overflow bottle the highest point in the system to allow trapped air to escape.  I don't think it's stuck in your heater core (should hear gurgling from behind the dash).

From the free Chilton's Manual:

2.Fill the degas bottle to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the COLD FILL line.
3.Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard.
4.Turn the climate control system off.
5.Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
6.Turn the engine off for and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.
7.
WARNING 

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.


Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
8.Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
9.Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
10.Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
11.Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
12.Repeat steps 9 through 11 a total of 5 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.
13.

WARNING 

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.


Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
14.Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard.
 
SHOnUup said:
As I'm repeating steps 9-11 my coolant temps go down while on throttle and rise during idle
How much of a difference are you seeing between idle & 3500 rpm?  Fans coming on?  Wonder if there is coolant pump involvement?  If engine reaches operating temperature, and heater hose is not hot, this is a possibility.
 
Hot heat, cold a/c, previous temps hovered at 190-194, never saw over 194 on coolant temps. Now it will sit and idle to over that until I throttle up. Instant drop in temps all the way below fan kick on temps.
 
Would temps drop like that with higher rpm's causing a pressurized flow?

The help is much appreciated and the reason I donated to the site.
 
Another topic discussed earlier in this forum, was that the 160 TS may be made for a hot sided application and the stock is a cold sided application. 

I had every symptom you've described so far when I used the 160.
 
I'm not an expert exactly what the difference is.  Reicshe Thermostats have a good explain and diagram on the difference.

Yes I just stayed with 170 with no problems.  Running LMS v8 3bar tune.  I had them custom my fan settings a few times to get them where I wanted since their lower fan settings ran the fans all the time, even in the winter.
 
JMR76 said:
I'm not an expert exactly what the difference is.  Reicshe Thermostats have a good explain and diagram on the difference.

Yes I just stayed with 170 with no problems.  Running LMS v8 3bar tune.  I had them custom my fan settings a few times to get them where I wanted since their lower fan settings ran the fans all the time, even in the winter.
Roger that. Livernois mentioned they'd rather the fan run than kick on and off. What temp you have yours set to kick on and how's it working? Thx again
 
They wouldn't tell me exactly.  Mine ran too much, even making the fans squeak.  It's in between what they had me at 170 TS and stock.  it took a few tries, but they finally got it right. 
 
If I'm reading my earlier emails, with the stock (180 TS) settings I think the fans come on around 190 degrees.  With LMS custom for a 170 TS, they original had them come on at 180 and go off lower than that. 

With a 170 TS the car likes to run 182-186 degrees on high end dipping to 178 and sometimes cooler.  So I had them adjust the fans again to come on around 184 or so and go off 178 or 180. 

I tried the 160 TS before this to see if that would help, but ended up where your at now and went back to a 170. 
 
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