Is it really AWD?

  • Thread starter Thread starter geswek
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geswek said:
After reading that thread--it seems like "some" power will go to rear to the point it will cut out as my launching?

Well it has to have some protection...the theoretical limit for FWD is about 300HP due to the unequal length drive shafts on it, which will spin at different speeds due to the length. From what I understand, the tune on it will remove some of the overly nanny features that the stock one has, but won't let you grenade the drive train.

 
Here I am about to slam 400hp at the wheels on it.

Lot of us have, lets see if holds up.
 
So this inspires more interesting questions.  Its looks like this car is at best a 65/35 split between the front and rear drive assuming a 150 lb torque capacity on the rear. 
1.) Is the car always sending some power to the rear?  At 80 mph light load cruising?
2.) Is there a way to reduce rear wheel power after say 50-60 mph and run full power to the front?  After your hooked and going why waste the power to the rear wheels.  Its called reducing driveline loss.
My opinion is the car would actually run better up top if it could push the power only through the front drive after say a certain speed.  For every corresponding foot of driveline there is a percentage loss.  With this car maybe best of both worlds is possible.  Thoughts?
 
Needmoreboost said:
So this inspires more interesting questions.  Its looks like this car is at best a 65/35 split between the front and rear drive assuming a 150 lb torque capacity on the rear. 
1.) Is the car always sending some power to the rear?  At 80 mph light load cruising?
2.) Is there a way to reduce rear wheel power after say 50-60 mph and run full power to the front?  After your hooked and going why waste the power to the rear wheels.  Its called reducing driveline loss.
My opinion is the car would actually run better up top if it could push the power only through the front drive after say a certain speed.  For every corresponding foot of driveline there is a percentage loss.  With this car maybe best of both worlds is possible.  Thoughts?
Think of this car as a FWD car all the time UNLESS it loses traction
 
Needmoreboost said:
So this inspires more interesting questions.  Its looks like this car is at best a 65/35 split between the front and rear drive assuming a 150 lb torque capacity on the rear. 

I would say its a 65/35 split, given a say a 20% drive train loss through the transmission, which would put the total torque # under 300 Ft lbs, which would mean a 50/50 transfer
 
Scott13SHO said:
Needmoreboost said:
So this inspires more interesting questions.  Its looks like this car is at best a 65/35 split between the front and rear drive assuming a 150 lb torque capacity on the rear. 

I would say its a 65/35 split, given a say a 20% drive train loss through the transmission, which would put the total torque # under 300 Ft lbs, which would mean a 50/50 transfer

Todays transmissions are not losing 20%.  Especially front drive cars lose even less than traditional rear drive cars.  Front drive is 8-12% usually and rear 15-18%.  Back to back dyno's on the newer bone stock 5.0 mustangs show the standard and auto numbers almost exactly the same.  Actually the auto made more hp while the manual made more torque by a few ponies.  These cars with a tune only are making way more than 300 ft lbs at the front wheels.  As stated the rear wheels appear to be only activated under front slip.  Good stuff to contemplate on.  Some form of PTU controller would be nice to test on a track.
 
Needmoreboost said:
Todays transmissions are not losing 20%.  Especially front drive cars lose even less than traditional rear drive cars.  Front drive is 8-12% usually and rear 15-18%.  Back to back dyno's on the newer bone stock 5.0 mustangs show the standard and auto numbers almost exactly the same.  Actually the auto made more hp while the manual made more torque by a few ponies.

A difference of 5HP or 5 FT lb of Torque is inconsequential when testing car...there is NO way that a FWD transmission is losing 8-12% at the wheels...if anything the HP or TQ are being sandbagged by the manufacture, thus the discrepancy
 
Scott13SHO said:
Needmoreboost said:
Todays transmissions are not losing 20%.  Especially front drive cars lose even less than traditional rear drive cars.  Front drive is 8-12% usually and rear 15-18%.  Back to back dyno's on the newer bone stock 5.0 mustangs show the standard and auto numbers almost exactly the same.  Actually the auto made more hp while the manual made more torque by a few ponies.

A difference of 5HP or 5 FT lb of Torque is inconsequential when testing car...there is NO way that a FWD transmission is losing 8-12% at the wheels...if anything the HP or TQ are being sandbagged by the manufacture, thus the discrepancy

I'm talking from the engine (crank hp) to the wheels.  Not the transmission to the wheels.  I made quite a few dyno pulls (different tunes and setups) on my front drive turbo car and I would agree the lower percentage is more accurate.  But, even with front drive there is transmission and halfshafts etc. that the power still has to travel through to make whp.  Albeit less than rear drive.
 
Subarus lose close to 20% through the full-time all wheel drive train (from crank to the wheels). Granted, that's a different drive system and probably close to the worst case scenario (in terms of power loss), but they're out there.
 
Yeah, but I have to say that Subaru does make a pretty stout AWD system.
 
DJE624 said:
Just wanted to pipe in here that when I did a 2K launch, I could hear the fronts and backs break loose.  I'm pretty sure the fronts did first, and longer.

Fairly confident you heard right...that's what you should expect to hear
 
Anyone have a beefy 2013 yet? Based on the results I'm seeing, the rear clutch engages prior to launch, if power braking.
 
My neighbor likes to lite em up on my asphalt with his '37 so, after I broke in the SHO, I thought I would return the favor on his turf....not even a chirp!!...DEEpressing!!  Couple of days later it rained so I gave it another try on my wet asphalt. If there was any slip I sure did not detect it and it was all launch. If this thing is FWD with the AWD kicking in only when needed, the transition must be taking place in milliseconds.
 
You hit it exactly.  The traction control meters every few milliseconds.  Per Ford, the care is default FWD and AWD when tires slip.  The system works very well. Without a tune to limit the these controls you'll need to disable them to expect any significant burnout unless you brake/rev/release like a drag start.  You can disable traction control and torque vectoring with the menu on the screens if you want to justify new tires sooner to the wife :greedy:
 
You'll never lite em up but if you brake to about 2K then tromp on it, all four will break loose like I stated above. (That's with a good tune and TC off, at the track.) There are so many different surfaces of pavement out there.  Smooth concrete is the best for breaking them loose.  On some of the rougher asphalt it's almost impossible.
 
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