Knock with stock tune at WOT.
- Thread starter curry67
- Start date
FoMoCoSHO said:
This is true...However, Fomo's head is a little more susceptible to explosions because it works overtime lol...
But not only is the ECU good at protecting itself but it also rides the edge of performance for a given fuel. That's the beauty of having knock sensors. You will never see an inactive knock sensor, remember that. I've also seen a lot of people misinterpret data logs when trying to diagnose a problem or even a perceived problem that doesn't even exist.
When you see knock sensor reading it's most likely not knocking but the PID is displaying how much timing was removed to prevent the knock from occurring so you can rest easy.
The benefit of having knock sensors it to keep the cars running consistent over long periods of time to compensate for changes in atmosphere, engine environment, fuel quality, physically degraded engine components
curry67 said:
I've said this before but there will always be new people self diagnosing their own cars....Nothing wrong with that but it can be tough....Not saying this is always true but the average end user that has a tune or is stock can't see the entire situation.
I can make a tune and run 87 octane and make it so the knock sensors are ADDING timing and you can have a tune where you run race fuel and the ECU will pull timing....It's all on how the base tables are set...If I set the tables with 15 degrees less than stock then even with 87 octane the ECU will add timing.
I know that some performance tunes simply add a few degrees of global timing then the result it more power and timing advance to whatever the fuel and situation can tolerate....If it can't tolerate it then you wiil see knock sensor retard
curry67 said:
Maybe....But you really need to have someone verify on a log just to make sure that's really what you have. Then I would want to look for trends....5 and 6 is a little high...If it's an isolated event then no biggie. If it continues then your timing tables need work and are over advanced and you are relying on the knock sensors.
Take your device and under user options retard the spark by 4 or 6 degrees and see if it's better...If it is then your spark tables are over advanced.
I like my knock sensor readings to be like my short term fuel trims.....They should hover around 0. A little above and below is good.
Log please..
Well it could've been isolated...Isolated could even mean a weekend or how long you had some fuel or how long a station had that fuel I dunno....
Seems like some of you folks from canadia land battle fuel troubles now and again eh?....And those cooler temps up there may lead to extra spark advance due to the IAT compensation tables...As IAT's are cooler the ECU will add some timing also
Well it could've been isolated...Isolated could even mean a weekend or how long you had some fuel or how long a station had that fuel I dunno....
Seems like some of you folks from canadia land battle fuel troubles now and again eh?....And those cooler temps up there may lead to extra spark advance due to the IAT compensation tables...As IAT's are cooler the ECU will add some timing also
Your Wot pulls are very short. Good data goes along way when logging....can be tough on the street though...I have my good secret places to log where I live.
Your not really giving the car time to settle into a nice pull. I did see one of the WOT pulls though where there was no knock sensor readings. Even though you had some knock sensor readings your timing did not look overly advanced. I saw spark around 13-16 degrees so that's fine....But you did have more knock sensor activity than I would expect to see on a stock tune. I wouldn't be worried but I would watch for trends and see if it continues.
Try and get a nice long pull if you can. at least 2 or 3 complete gears or 80 mph of acceleration. Give it time to pull and see how it looks and if the entire pull has knock sensor readings.
Some have had to do the knock sensor wire mod. I have my doubts on if that does anything but some say it helped them. These ECU's are so busy and dependent on environmental conditions I can see coincidence and timing of the wire mod playing a factor. I can't see vibration and noise appearing as high knock readings....Why not low? And if the wire is so bad it was grounding out on people then the knock sensor PID would just flatline I would guess. But I have seen what people call false knock or ghost knock as reported from knock sensor due to aftermarket cams that have noisy valve trains or metallic noises from exhausts having an effect.
You should try and flash and pull 6 degrees or some dramatic amount like 10 to see if it's the tune...If it's not then you have a component or sensor failure maybe
That's what I see at this point...Does't look real bad though...Let the sensor do it's job..Or wait for a DTC....If you don't have a dtc it can't be that bad...This car basically has the ability to tell you if your farts contaminated your alcantara in the seats
Your not really giving the car time to settle into a nice pull. I did see one of the WOT pulls though where there was no knock sensor readings. Even though you had some knock sensor readings your timing did not look overly advanced. I saw spark around 13-16 degrees so that's fine....But you did have more knock sensor activity than I would expect to see on a stock tune. I wouldn't be worried but I would watch for trends and see if it continues.
Try and get a nice long pull if you can. at least 2 or 3 complete gears or 80 mph of acceleration. Give it time to pull and see how it looks and if the entire pull has knock sensor readings.
Some have had to do the knock sensor wire mod. I have my doubts on if that does anything but some say it helped them. These ECU's are so busy and dependent on environmental conditions I can see coincidence and timing of the wire mod playing a factor. I can't see vibration and noise appearing as high knock readings....Why not low? And if the wire is so bad it was grounding out on people then the knock sensor PID would just flatline I would guess. But I have seen what people call false knock or ghost knock as reported from knock sensor due to aftermarket cams that have noisy valve trains or metallic noises from exhausts having an effect.
You should try and flash and pull 6 degrees or some dramatic amount like 10 to see if it's the tune...If it's not then you have a component or sensor failure maybe
That's what I see at this point...Does't look real bad though...Let the sensor do it's job..Or wait for a DTC....If you don't have a dtc it can't be that bad...This car basically has the ability to tell you if your farts contaminated your alcantara in the seats