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geswek
Guest
It has to be a 360 degree LED.
The first one I had was just a projector LED, didn't work as it basically pointed at side of walls.
The next LED I got from my friend was fine, just not bright enough.
The third I just ordered has a ton more LED on it so it should work.
Reflector is normal like any other. The issue is that the bulb goes in from side of light and from back like a normal tail lights.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
The first one I had was just a projector LED, didn't work as it basically pointed at side of walls.
The next LED I got from my friend was fine, just not bright enough.
The third I just ordered has a ton more LED on it so it should work.
Reflector is normal like any other. The issue is that the bulb goes in from side of light and from back like a normal tail lights.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
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geswek
Guest
I broke 2 more LED's; so I ordered a bunch! Those damn T10's are HARD to put into brand new sockets LOL.
Here is the vanity mirror--they look AWESOME!
Before
After
Here is the vanity mirror--they look AWESOME!
Before
After
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geswek
Guest
Joleat said:
Thanks Joleat!
I agree -- they're getting there. We have LED brakes now! LOL.
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geswek
Guest
Do not buy this; it does not fit our reverse light socket on 2013. I tried it and it fell out of my damn car LOL.
http://goo.gl/iK204V
http://goo.gl/iK204V
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geswek
Guest
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geswek
Guest
OK -- I got 3 mini-wedges in and broke two of them.
SOB! :bangin: :bangin: :bangin:
I ordered 2 more again. I have ONE map light left to replace.
I do have a problem though!
In the backseat there is light box above your head. It has two maps outer edge and center light. For some reason, anything I put in the driver's side map light doesn't light up fully. I've swapped LED's (how I broke the others) and confirmed it's not the LEDs or bulb; its the socket.
Any idea how to verify? Could I use multimeter? See what the voltage is between the driver side and passenger map light?
SOB! :bangin: :bangin: :bangin:
I ordered 2 more again. I have ONE map light left to replace.
I do have a problem though!
In the backseat there is light box above your head. It has two maps outer edge and center light. For some reason, anything I put in the driver's side map light doesn't light up fully. I've swapped LED's (how I broke the others) and confirmed it's not the LEDs or bulb; its the socket.
Any idea how to verify? Could I use multimeter? See what the voltage is between the driver side and passenger map light?
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geswek
Guest
bpd1151 said:
Hold me Mike!
Sent from a mobile, I think.
geswek said:
I assume you tried turning the led the other way? Unless they have a special circuit they're polarity sensitive.
Using a multi meter measure voltage on each side. If they're different measure resistance between the 2 positive sides and then between the 2 negative sides. If there is a side with lower voltage the resistance check will tell you which polarity is having problems by showing an increased resistance or open circuit. Alternatively you can use a different ground (cig lighter barrel) and measure voltage on each sides + wire. This will take their negative lead out of the equation. Then using that same ground measure resistance to the ground on each side. Lower voltage on + wire means damaged positive connection or wire. High resistance on one ground means damaged negative connection or wire.
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geswek
Guest
dalum said:
Yes; I just picked up a multimeter.
The map light has two wires; red and yellow.
If I put LED in wrong, it doesn't light. If I flip it, it lights. If I take that LED and move it to another socket it's full brightness.
I don't have a bulb in the driver side map light right now (out of LEDs).
I put ground on red wire, positive on yellow; the side that has an LED in map light working came out 12.61V; I did the other side it came out 12.61V as well. So, I'm not sure if I need a bulb in there to determine if it's losing volts but as far as I can tell--the car is sending 12.61V to the actual socket (metal tabs the LED or even normal bulb get their electricity from).
My ignorance showed earlier; I'm not stupid and I know how to measure electricity LOL. I think I'm beyond frustrated with the LEDs that I just said "screw it". This is what happens when I'm tired, hungry, nad cranky from a bad shoulder LOL.
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geswek
Guest
OK, I think the entire assembly is screwed.
I measured driver side map light 12.61V; put in a halogen bulb (factory bulb); registered 0.1V --didn't matter orientation. Move that bulb to center slot and passenger map light--no problem. Stuck an LED from passenger map light into drivers map light and it registered 8.6V.
I'm just going to order an entirely new assembly. It doesn't surprise me at this point that the thing is broken.
I measured driver side map light 12.61V; put in a halogen bulb (factory bulb); registered 0.1V --didn't matter orientation. Move that bulb to center slot and passenger map light--no problem. Stuck an LED from passenger map light into drivers map light and it registered 8.6V.
I'm just going to order an entirely new assembly. It doesn't surprise me at this point that the thing is broken.
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geswek
Guest
Both; door and button.
I already measured without bulbs; it's 12.61V on both sides.
Driver Side;
LED - 8.6V half lit
Halogen - Does not light up; shows 0.1V
Passenger Side;
LED - 12.61V fully lit
Halogen - Fully lit
If I swap these LED/Halogens around they work fine--they just do not work on Drive Side map light.
I already measured without bulbs; it's 12.61V on both sides.
Driver Side;
LED - 8.6V half lit
Halogen - Does not light up; shows 0.1V
Passenger Side;
LED - 12.61V fully lit
Halogen - Fully lit
If I swap these LED/Halogens around they work fine--they just do not work on Drive Side map light.
Storm, be forewarned that with my LED's they never go out completely when the lights of the car are on. They get real dim (like a movie theater) so I kinda like the effect. I have been told that it's because the LED's are very sensitive to any current and that if I wanted them to go out completely I needed to add resistors. But since no one even notices the very dim lights that are on at night, I left them like they are, I kinda like them the way they are. But they are off if the car lighting is off.
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geswek
Guest
I think people are misunderstanding my issue.
It's not a matter of them going out. The drive side map light does not work. It's not giving a full 12v like all the other light sockets in my car. I've gone through 5 different sets of LED.
I'm ordering replacement assembly because now I can't even use a normal bulb. It will not light up the bulb.
Sent from a mobile, I think.
It's not a matter of them going out. The drive side map light does not work. It's not giving a full 12v like all the other light sockets in my car. I've gone through 5 different sets of LED.
I'm ordering replacement assembly because now I can't even use a normal bulb. It will not light up the bulb.
Sent from a mobile, I think.
geswek said:
Since you say you've used opening the door to test i'm ruling out the switch on the light. The doors wire should bypass that. 0.1v across a bulb in circuit is normal. Voltage is the deference in potential from two points. Since the filament completes the circuit the only different across it is the voltage drop from its filaments resistance. If you used a remote ground you should see 12.6v on the positive side and 12.5v on the negative side showing you the 0.1v you measured. If the bulb were burnt you would still show 12.6v because the circuit would still be open. If you have 12.6v on the open socket, 0.1v across the bulb, and no light then something is limiting the current so it's not high enough for the filament to glow.
LEDs are current devices. Once a minimum voltage is reached they work off of current. White LEDs voltage drop is about 3.6v so with that and it's resistor I could see a 4v drop down to the 8.6v you measured. It looks like the led is getting its minimum voltage to turn on but again not enough current (same problem) for it to be bright.
I hope you didn't fry something when you blew that fuse. I can't think of anything "normal" that would limit current to this degree but still have proper voltage. Then again it's 5am and I'm high on sinus meds and have been up all night. Before that bulb you have the battery saver probably feeding switched +12 or zero(after x minutes of car off) to a lighting control unit that does the theater dimming when the lights go off. These could all be in the BCM and you would have to replace the whole thing requiring your dealer to reprogram it (been down that road with turn signals).
I have another test for you to try. We're replacing your multimeter with the led. Since we know both polarities are good on the passenger side we'll use those to test the drivers side. Use some wires with alligator clips on the led and hook to the positive on one side and the negative on the other then swap. Since the drivers side seems to have a problem on one wire this should be bright on one way and dim on the other.
I'd need to know how this is switched to tell you more after you see if its the + or ground wire giving you fault. I'd be very interested in seeing the wiring behind the pod but I couldn't figure out how to get it off the headliner. With the battery saver and the theater dimming there are many different ways this could be wired. Even something as stupid as the buttons controlling the lighting module.
Get me some pics of at least the back of the replacement part before you put it in. If the wires are fine, your socket contacts aren't messed up,and there's no circuitry up there I'd bet the problem is else ware.