Seems to me from the info provided that the circuit needs to see 5 ohms of resistance, aside from the resistance of the LED lighting, to make the lighting work properly. A single 5 ohm resistor should suffice if the circuit is in series (3 of the 5 ohm resistors if the circuit were in parallel and lights were individually controlled). I would try 1 of the 5 ohm resistors first. 15 probably a waste of power.
No, the resistor would go in parallel across the center LED's + and -, simulating a bulb in the socket. Also lower resistors use MORE power; think of it as the lower the resistance the closer you get to a normal wire that is a straight short.
That aside I replaced all 3 rear and both front with led's in mine when i got the car and I don't have any of these problems??? I wonder if they were special canbus compatible or something.
That aside I replaced all 3 rear and both front with led's in mine when i got the car and I don't have any of these problems??? I wonder if they were special canbus compatible or something.
Scott13SHO
Member
Both myself and geswek are having the same exact problem with our 2013s. He even got a new map light assembly and had the same problem.
Where did you get your LED's from?
Where did you get your LED's from?
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geswek
Guest
Yeah, we both have this problem.
I don't know if I can get a resistor in there; be a tight freaking fit LOL.
I don't know if I can get a resistor in there; be a tight freaking fit LOL.
Scott13SHO
Member
I pulled mine apart last week at work...the setup is a cricut board
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geswek
Guest
Yeah; so I'm not sure how to do that.
Would I put the resistor on two leads that go to the center light?
Would I put the resistor on two leads that go to the center light?
You can just shove it in the socket with the led to test it. One wire each side. Well that is if it has a plastic base and its not an open circuit board led. Do NOT put the resistors on the feed wires from the car. It looks like the whole dome unit has a controller in it and those are just power, ground, and inputs to it.
Do the lights stay on with nothing in the middle socket?
Ill look up what led's I used tonight or tomorrow. I think they came from vleds and amazon cause I used different types in the map spots and dome.
The only thing I've noticed with mine is the theater dimming is a stair step to off instead of a smooth dim. They all turn completely off as far as I know. Ill check in the bat cave tonight after the sun goes down.
Do the lights stay on with nothing in the middle socket?
Ill look up what led's I used tonight or tomorrow. I think they came from vleds and amazon cause I used different types in the map spots and dome.
The only thing I've noticed with mine is the theater dimming is a stair step to off instead of a smooth dim. They all turn completely off as far as I know. Ill check in the bat cave tonight after the sun goes down.
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geswek
Guest
If the middle bulb is removed they won't work.
It's like center bulb completes the circuit.
I'll run by radio shack and get a 5ohm resistor this weekend. Couldn't I just do what you said and put one end of resistor on one side and other opposite and just wedge the LED and resistor into socket and leave it? You can't see it with the lens on so nobody would ever know.
It's like center bulb completes the circuit.
I'll run by radio shack and get a 5ohm resistor this weekend. Couldn't I just do what you said and put one end of resistor on one side and other opposite and just wedge the LED and resistor into socket and leave it? You can't see it with the lens on so nobody would ever know.
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geswek
Guest
I got it working; found thread on some CobaltSS forum of someone with same issue and his resolution.
Ran over to Radioshack and grabbed this, and soldering iron (since mine is back in TX).
Threw it on like this to test; wahla--dang thing worked like it should!
The rest are basically how I added the additional resistor and soldered it. I noticed there was some kind of resistor but it was only on "one" lead; not across it like I did.
I was wondering though; could I not just take apart the assembly and put a resistor on each side of wire going to the stocket, or would that generate too much heat?
Ran over to Radioshack and grabbed this, and soldering iron (since mine is back in TX).
Threw it on like this to test; wahla--dang thing worked like it should!
The rest are basically how I added the additional resistor and soldered it. I noticed there was some kind of resistor but it was only on "one" lead; not across it like I did.
I was wondering though; could I not just take apart the assembly and put a resistor on each side of wire going to the stocket, or would that generate too much heat?
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DJE624
Guest
Nice job!
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geswek
Guest
FO sho.
Now to finish trunk and puddle lamps.
Sent from a mobile, I think.
Now to finish trunk and puddle lamps.
Sent from a mobile, I think.
crashnburn
New member
I would solder it in to the socket wiring as this may prevent problems down the road. But that might just be my OCD talking :biggrin:
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geswek
Guest
I'm going to leave it.
It's night here and I had a chance to test it and OMG is the interior awesome with LED's.
It was worth the headaches, money (spent almost $100 on LEDs), and time!
It's night here and I had a chance to test it and OMG is the interior awesome with LED's.
It was worth the headaches, money (spent almost $100 on LEDs), and time!
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geswek
Guest
I won't be able to do that until weekend. The car goes to body shop for next two days.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 4
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 4
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geswek
Guest
Dead post man
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DJE624
Guest
That is crazy sick!
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geswek
Guest
My puddle LED lights show up tomorrow--I'll get some more tomorrow night maybe.