When I painted my calipers I used the lift at a friend's shop but I had alot of trouble figuring out exactly where to lift the car at. I think I'm going to need to lift the car again to redo them at some point soon. This time I plan on buying a floor jack and some jack stands. o exactly where is a good place to lift the car from? Even the lift at the shop was difficult because there was nothing with enough surface area for me to be comfortable lifting from.
Lift Points
- Thread starter sunwolf
- Start date
wasinger3000
New member
They won't bend. It's a pinch weld and that's one of the stones points on the car.
I've seen some old ones bent after a while on other cars, age and corrossion eventually gets to them. I hope I am wrong, but I am even scared to try, let alone leave a jack under one of them. I dont like any out of shape parts on the car. I wonder if anyone had any issues with these?
wasinger3000
New member
Just about every unibody car is made like this. Which is millions. I wouldn't worry, I've had mine up on jack stands many times without an issue.cror1 said:
bpd1151
Active member
I've been lifting the car repeatedly, at the suggested lift points as described by others, since I bought my SHO new, both by hydraulic lift & by using a regular jack, & haven't experienced any negative issues thus far.
It may look flimsy at 1st glance, but the suggested lift points have proven fairly stout.
Feel comfortable using them & lift, lift, lift away.
It may look flimsy at 1st glance, but the suggested lift points have proven fairly stout.
Feel comfortable using them & lift, lift, lift away.
IHeartGroceries
New member
Sorry for the thread revival. But used my floor jacks (yes, JACKS), for the first time with the SHO this afternoon, for a tire roation. Was a bit tricky, using two jacks and pivoting the beast around two stands on the rear points, jacks under the two front. Little aggrivating that there's only four load bearing zones. Makes jacking up and placing on stands tricky. What I didn't look for was a place on the front subframe or if the RDU may be used. Then, it's alot easier to slip the jack stands under the four corners.
polskifacet
New member
Stock jack doesn't lift by the rail itself, there is a cutout where the rail goes and it uses the whole area around the pinch rail. I usually find something more beefy to lift it by, there is a large metal plate with a large bolt a bit deeper in the front, same thing should go for the back. Would have to fab something up as I haven't found anything good.
Here's a thread over on SHOforum that's a great read
http://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/a-new-lift-for-my-sho.131650/
http://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/a-new-lift-for-my-sho.131650/
I have a quickjack too. Will be testing it on the SHO this weekend.BlueSHO said:Revisiting this and making sure it's ok to use a hydraulic floor jack with a 4" pad at the factory pinch welds or would it be better with that type jack at some other location? Or using one of these lifts.
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
Pinchwelds are great for lifting cars. If you're really worried, just get a slotted jack pad like this https://www.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B01MA232WY/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H73K3HBRXJEBMANHE4HB or find an old hockey puck and cut a slot in it.