MKS sub with pictures

[Scott4957]

Finally pulled the trunk apart to see what was in there. Its a 10" sub, dual 2 ohm voice coil free air. The cover makes a bit of an enclosure but is by no means sealed, in fact it has a bunch of holes in it. I measured the opening and it is exactly 10 inches so it should fit just about any 10 inch sub as most are under 10 inches for the hole. The stock sub is dropped in from the top which means I have to figure out how to pull the rear deck apart, that sucks. Once I get that apart I will likely mount the new sub from the bottom so I don't have to deal with that again. Here are some pictures.

 

[sholxgt]

Thanks!  Are my eyes deceiving me or is that the smallest magnet on a 10" sub of all time?

Looks like a really, really well braced deck though.  I bet that thing could handle a more serious subwoofer. 

Can you tell yet if the other speakers are isolated from the trunk?

 

[Scott4957]

Thanks!  Are my eyes deceiving me or is that the smallest magnet on a 10" sub of all time?

Looks like a really, really well braced deck though.  I bet that thing could handle a more serious subwoofer. 

Can you tell yet if the other speakers are isolated from the trunk?

They are, I can't even see them.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[glock-coma]

The sub magnet is probably neodymium, which would explain its small size.
The opening where the seats would fold down looks identical to the SHO.

 

[sholxgt]

Wow!  Looks like if I want to stick with my idea of just replacing the factory speaker to see if I get an improvement, I have very limited speaker options.

Searching for a 2 ohm, DVC, 10" sub that is free air capable I've only found one suitable candidate.  The Kicker CompD 40CWD102. 

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-40CWD102-CompD-inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00BGRMCI4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465766416&sr=1-1&keywords=40CWD102

On the bright side, it would be the cheapest sub I ever bought. LOL

 

[glock-coma]

Are you planning on using the factor amp? If not you can use any combo of ohm/voice coil. 

 

[sholxgt]

Are you planning on using the factor amp? If not you can use any combo of ohm/voice coil.

I am considering the idea of just installing an upgraded speaker and seeing if it meets my needs.  Figure I could add an amplifier later if it didn't.

Being a 2ohm DVC sub though makes that a little harder since it limits the choices.  Plus, if I decided later that I wanted to add an amplifier, I would need one that is 1 ohm stable I think?  Been a while since I've dug into this topic.

 

[glock-coma]

You could go 4 ohm or 1 ohm with dvc 2 ohm sub.

I don't think you'll  notice a huge difference with just a different sub.  Not sure what the sensitivity is on the factory sub but the kicker is 86.2 db.

 

[TX MKS-T]

I had a heck of a time trying to add a sub to the exisitng THX system which ended in me finally scrapping the addition. The factory AMP is a complex piece and trying to use a clean sweep to get a l ine convertor added didnt work either. Outside of replacing all speakers and factory amp I saw no other way of adding some wanted punch to the factory system. Id like to see how the sub replacement turns out since I didnt explore that route, im subing to this thread

 

[Scott4957]

TX, i'm surprised you had so much trouble. Everyone seems to have had good luck using the LC2I to pull a signal off one of the speak outputs. I have placed an order for everything I need, the LC2I will be here tomorrow, and on Wednesday the Rockford R500X1D, Kappa 120.9w "went with the 12in" and a wiring kit. I will start with a free air/IB setup first to answer the question of whether or not it will work well. If I don't like it I'll build a sealed enclosure that will mount to the bottom of the rear deck.

I'm guessing the wiring diagram is different from the Sony that is posted. If anyone knows the best wires to tap for the LC2I please let me know, I assume I will only need one pair running mono. I also assume you need to tap the outputs from the amp to get vol control?

 

[TX MKS-T]

Yeah same hear having wired numerous systems but the THX setup is a whole other beast. I used the same line convertor your going with as well. I ended up pulling signal coming out of the amp but had no volume control off it and no other wires offered signal. Your 13 could be different though, fingers crossed you succeed though !

Oh and I researched for hours to locate wiring diagram for the THX and its like hush hush to find anything on ours.

 

[Scott4957]

Yeah same hear having wired numerous systems but the THX setup is a whole other beast. I used the same line convertor your going with as well. I ended up pulling signal coming out of the amp but had no volume control off it and no other wires offered signal. Your 13 could be different though, fingers crossed you succeed though !

Oh and I researched for hours to locate wiring diagram for the THX and its like hush hush to find anything on ours.

Oh fun, that doesn't give me the warm fuzzys. I would think worst case you could pull from the existing sub leads, not sure what the range is. It is usually avoided so you can get a full range signal and let the LC2I do the work.

 

[glock-coma]

I would try to tap the rear door coaxial signal for the sub. That way you can set the crossover to your liking and not be handcuffed by the facp try rear sub signal.
Obviously you'll have to get a wiring diagram for the factory amp.

 

[Scott4957]

I would try to tap the rear door coaxial signal for the sub. That way you can set the crossover to your liking and not be handcuffed by the facp try rear sub signal.
Obviously you'll have to get a wiring diagram for the factory amp.

Hmmm, maybe Kevin can get that for me. I guess worst case I can pull the rear door panel and look at the wiring. Need to make sure I get the polarity correct as well. My concern with the sub output is bass roll off, though the LC2i can handle that as well. I have no idea what the cross over points are either. Its just super easy to get to so it would be nice if I could use it.

 

[glock-coma]

The lci2 has bass restoration so it will compensate for any factory roll off.
You can try at the sub wiring for the signal, but only use one set of +/-
You might be fine with the factory xover. 

 

[Scott4957]

Yeah, I wish I had the tools to test and see what the output is. I sent Kevin a PM to see if he could pull the information at work. I will share with the other MKS owners if or when I find the best way to go. TX, i am wondering if maybe you had the polarity wrong when you tapped the other wires but did not get a signal. I mean there would have to be a signal there, from what I have read, if you had the polarity reversed the LC2i would not output any signal.

 

[BiGMaC]

Any time I do work on my stereo I use a CD with polarity clicks to check and also one to evaluate phase cancellation. Easy peezy, even though an RTA makes the latter easier to fix.

 

[glock-coma]

Also the signal should come AFTER the factory amp in the trunk. Some people say that a completely flat signal is obtainable it you get the signal out of the head unit. I have not confirmed this either way. But Im pretty sure you loose all sync functions and volume control if you tap before the amp.

 

[Ryan02Stang]

Good luck...I have all the parts I need for the install (sub, amp, wires, line out converter, etc.) but haven't gotten around to the install yet.

Hoping this goes easy for you so I can build up the courage to do mine!

 

[Scott4957]

Good luck...I have all the parts I need for the install (sub, amp, wires, line out converter, etc.) but haven't gotten around to the install yet.

Hoping this goes easy for you so I can build up the courage to do mine!

Excellent. Were you planing on doing a Free Air/IB install or are you using a box? Tell me about your setup.