OBDLink info and how to import/export gauge templates
- Thread starter FoMoCoSHO
- Start date
Updating for new info.
If you want my gauge template for OBDLink download the following file
Change it from .zip to .stg and put the attached file into root/storage/emulated/0
Open OBDLink and go into the settings menu
Once in settings hit the three dot menu button in the top right corner and select Import Settings.
That file has my layout and the extended pids used.
If you want my gauge template for OBDLink download the following file
Open OBDLink and go into the settings menu
Once in settings hit the three dot menu button in the top right corner and select Import Settings.
That file has my layout and the extended pids used.
Unlike Torque, if you want to substitute a gauge you don't have to delete it.
press and hold gauge
select display configuration
Under item, select the new pid you'd like to use
Change the title, min/max, decimals if needed, etc.
To change to redlines...
press and hold gauge
select style
on the left side of the screen hit the dropdown box and select range
scroll to the bottom and change the redline values to whatever you want
press and hold gauge
select display configuration
Under item, select the new pid you'd like to use
Change the title, min/max, decimals if needed, etc.
To change to redlines...
press and hold gauge
select style
on the left side of the screen hit the dropdown box and select range
scroll to the bottom and change the redline values to whatever you want
I've definitely been working on this software using some of the ones you've (FoMoCoSHO) posted as inspiration for sure. I've attached a picture of where I'm at right now. It's on a Galaxy Note 3. Mostly just playing around, still need to tweak a few things. Yes, I know my LTFT's are garbage. Not sure what happened with that. STFT seems spot on, cruising LTFT seems okay, but idle LTFT is crap. Anyway, I should post that in my OTHER post. :/
I'm replying here to inquire if you found a way to get KR to behave where negative is bad vs. good. Every way I modify the equation, if I try to flip the negative by modifying various parts of it, when I test, I get get "Stack empty." or a similar error. :/ If not, maybe we can both go over to ScanTool.net's forums and picket for change!
Oh, and I screwed something up with LPFP actual, as it reads really low. I think I'm converting kPa or something incorrectly. Need to fix that too.
Awesome work. It's this post that really convinced me to get a quality OBD interface vs. the generic ELM327 ones. I even picked up an LX today for the Toyota and planning on putting an Android head unit in it. Having the full 500kbps at my disposal is amazing.
I'm replying here to inquire if you found a way to get KR to behave where negative is bad vs. good. Every way I modify the equation, if I try to flip the negative by modifying various parts of it, when I test, I get get "Stack empty." or a similar error. :/ If not, maybe we can both go over to ScanTool.net's forums and picket for change!
Oh, and I screwed something up with LPFP actual, as it reads really low. I think I'm converting kPa or something incorrectly. Need to fix that too.
Awesome work. It's this post that really convinced me to get a quality OBD interface vs. the generic ELM327 ones. I even picked up an LX today for the Toyota and planning on putting an Android head unit in it. Having the full 500kbps at my disposal is amazing.
ecoboostsho
New member
I can't remember off the top of my head what's it called but there is a multiplier for conversion to Celsius or something. Just make that -1 and it will give you the desired KR behavior. If you modify the equation you will get a stack error every time.
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
I don't remember what station is in this tank. It was a while ago when I filled up and it's the same tank that was in when my injector failed. I will say this, I am switching to 93 100% of the time once this last tank of 87 has gone through. I've only had the car 6 months and have gone back and forth, but after watching real data, it's 93 all the way for me. The fuel that's in there now should be run of the mill Top Tier E10 87. I don't fill up anywhere that isn't, but it'll likely be Chevron 93 E10 for me 100% of the time after this last 1/4 tank.
I didn't try the import yet. I built the one I uploaded the pic of by hand just using your as an example and tweaking it a bit to my liking.
Sweet, thanks! It's labeled "Metric to English Scale Factor" and defaults to 1. I'll try flipping that to -1 and watch it during my morning drive tomorrow.
Pressure is set to inHg, Vapor Pressure is set to inH2O, Fluid Pressure is set to psi. I deleted the custom PID and re-did it and it reads sane numbers now. I find that correcting a messed up equation doesn't always work and deleting the PID and making it fresh seems to resolve any oddities that aren't self-explanatory. I've got LPFP Actual and Ignition Timing working correctly now. Looks like I've got room for one more radial and 3 more digitals in my current setup. Just need to pick what I want.
FoMoCoSHO said:
I didn't try the import yet. I built the one I uploaded the pic of by hand just using your as an example and tweaking it a bit to my liking.
FoMoCoSHO said:
Sweet, thanks! It's labeled "Metric to English Scale Factor" and defaults to 1. I'll try flipping that to -1 and watch it during my morning drive tomorrow.
ecoboostsho said:
Pressure is set to inHg, Vapor Pressure is set to inH2O, Fluid Pressure is set to psi. I deleted the custom PID and re-did it and it reads sane numbers now. I find that correcting a messed up equation doesn't always work and deleting the PID and making it fresh seems to resolve any oddities that aren't self-explanatory. I've got LPFP Actual and Ignition Timing working correctly now. Looks like I've got room for one more radial and 3 more digitals in my current setup. Just need to pick what I want.
FoMoCoSHO said:
Just wanted to confirm this works perfectly. I switched "Metric to English Scale Factor" to -1 in OBDLink and my KR now works as I expected it to (negative numbers mean the car is retarding/pulling timing out.) I switched my gauge label to KC for "Knock Correction" as that's how it represented in the Toyota. Trying to keep the cars the same. LOL.
I've attached my current setup. I was surprised to see -1.00 LOR with this 87 that's in the tank. I'm probably going to rethink how I've got Lambda setup. Probably do two staggered 180 degree left sweep gauges.
I've attached my current setup. I was surprised to see -1.00 LOR with this 87 that's in the tank. I'm probably going to rethink how I've got Lambda setup. Probably do two staggered 180 degree left sweep gauges.
ecoboostsho said:
I guess I could have something wrong with my custom PID as well. Seeing -1.00 on 87 make me thing something's wrong with the PID. This was the first day I've had it on the display. Although if I had it programmed wrong I wouldn't figure it'd show -1.00. I'll double check it later.
FoMoCoSHO said:
I adjusted the layout a bit because I was tired of the needles blocking the readout.
Changed the needles as well, too long and skinny at the ends for my taste.
Removed TQ and Power until I get them figured out.
Load Absolute loosely follows Torque so it's another way to monitor power....Its one way you can tell power is increasing or decreasing after tune or hardware changes.
Added AWD which isn't working yet but since i have control of that pid I just need to figure out what I screwed up.
The needles are not white, they are blue and gray, camera phone fail.
Changed the needles as well, too long and skinny at the ends for my taste.
Removed TQ and Power until I get them figured out.
Load Absolute loosely follows Torque so it's another way to monitor power....Its one way you can tell power is increasing or decreasing after tune or hardware changes.
Added AWD which isn't working yet but since i have control of that pid I just need to figure out what I screwed up.
The needles are not white, they are blue and gray, camera phone fail.
