please help me understand what the crap is going on? (wastegates) : Resolved!!!

[TopherSho]

What I don't understand is why the tune revision is different.

I have no preloaded tunes on my device (or are they still there and locked?)

I deleted all the preinstalled tunes pretty much day 1.. as a tech guy i know these things have little rom/ram space so clearing out preloads makes more room for logging longer periods when only on the hand held

I have no idea what is up with my car tbh.  i just finished driving home on the adaptive reset and new tune.  it feel 'rough' .. im letting it sit for 30 minutes then i will drive it more to start getting the OAR back to .96

 

[FoMoCoSHO]

What I don't understand is why the tune revision is different.

I have no preloaded tunes on my device (or are they still there and locked?)

I deleted all the preinstalled tunes pretty much day 1.. as a tech guy i know these things have little rom/ram space so clearing out preloads makes more room for logging longer periods when only on the hand held

I have no idea what is up with my car tbh.  i just finished driving home on the adaptive reset and new tune.  it feel 'rough' .. im letting it sit for 30 minutes then i will drive it more to start getting the OAR back to .96

You can force OAR by locking in a higher gear and then slowly accelerating till you see -4. Every time you do that you will see OAR increase. I did it in a 5 minute drive off a fresh flash last night. Hit .96 right before I got on highway.

 

[ZSHO]

Agreed with SBS! FWIW you can always find a used PCM on Ebay for fairly cheap which is the (Brain) of the vehicle and just have it programmed @ the Dealer if that's the case!!!
What's your VIN Number?  I'm presume it's an earlier build Job 1 ?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4712.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X.TRS0&_nkw=%09BA5Z-12A650-PD&_sacat=0

Don't mean to thread jack****
Z the cost of the PCM has caught my interest its around $80. Would you know the cost of reprogramming it @ a dealer?

Sorry for the late reply but the Forum appears to be quite slow for some reason! Dunno! But glad FoMoCo came to the rescue!  Z 

 

[StealBlueSHO]

^^^^^I do this every time I flash...

You don’t have to lock the gear... just get upto speed in 6th gear and press the accelerator until you see then KR dropping to -4 without the car downshifting. Then let up once you hit -4...


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[FoMoCoSHO]

^^^^^I do this every time I flash...

You don’t have to lock the gear... just get upto speed in 6th gear and press the accelerator until you see then KR dropping to -4 without the car downshifting. Then let up once you hit -4...


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I lock the gear so it can't downshift.

 

[StealBlueSHO]

Yea... that’s more work... Having to shift to M...hit the rinky dinky paddle... then shift back to D.... ain’t got time for that...


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[ajpturbo]

I looked at the trans log and I don't normally look at most of the items you logged so I'm not sure they are telling us anything...I thought the misfires you mentioned were a big blip in the log which usually indicates a disruption in the data stream while logging and not a big deal.

But your's were steadily recording misfires, that is the first time I  have ever seen that in a log. It's looks legit.

I know you haven't had flywheel or torque converter work. ANd I'm not sure about any driveline work but if something is off in the rotational parts sometimes that can throw off the crank sensor readings...This is a long shot. But using your X4 you can do a "crank relearn procedure" I have never done it with the X4 but that can help with misfires with the ford logic

It's kind of complicated but the crank sensor is expecting to see certain rate of speed depending on conditions and if it doesn't it can record misfires and make the car run rough...You should do the procedure.

 

[StealBlueSHO]

Pull plugs and check then, compression test maybe a good thing as well..


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[TopherSho]

I looked at the trans log and I don't normally look at most of the items you logged so I'm not sure they are telling us anything...I thought the misfires you mentioned were a big blip in the log which usually indicates a disruption in the data stream while logging and not a big deal.

But your's were steadily recording misfires, that is the first time I  have ever seen that in a log. It's looks legit.

I know you haven't had flywheel or torque converter work. ANd I'm not sure about any driveline work but if something is off in the rotational parts sometimes that can throw off the crank sensor readings...This is a long shot. But using your X4 you can do a "crank relearn procedure" I have never done it with the X4 but that can help with misfires with the ford logic

It's kind of complicated but the crank sensor is expecting to see certain rate of speed depending on conditions and if it doesn't it can record misfires and make the car run rough...You should do the procedure.

Update : still sputtering .. stalling after applying new update

Can you think of a reason it would NOT log the misfires on the other two CFG files from you and Torrie?  that's whats making me all itchy atm .. but i will pull the front three plugs after i get replacement boots.

i may make a new CFg file again and just import a few standard things and see if the misfire is a fluke on THAT cfg file i built. make sure this is not a false flag ..

New question HOW dependent is my tune on the gap being .28 ?  I do not expect that my current gap is bad,  but i will need to gap the new plugs myself and i suck at it.

I will also do tghe crank relearn,  no work has been done in the engine, but i may start hitting it with a sledgehammer in a few more days.

today's experiment will be to load the tank with 50$ of 97 octane.  if it get way better the spark plug idea gains a bunch of merrit.

 

[ajpturbo]

No idea why one config would show misfires....Best thing is to validate all items in livelink so it talks to your car.

The plug gap really shouldn't matter as long as it's close to .030" I used stock plug gaps on my SHO...It's my belief that very early on in the tuning with the Ecoboosts their was little knowledge on the tuning and bad tuning going on and the perceived misfires were a result of improper tuning...Throttle closures and knock made the cars feel like power was being cut. People ran with the idea that plugs were necessary and people that sell plugs loved it as well....The ignition systems are strong in these cars....Now cooler plugs are beneficial.

I don't know that the 97 oct in necessary...You Knock retard is fine

 

[StealBlueSHO]

Skip the 97 octane... waste of money... if you are worried about knock turn on your meth injection. That will do just as good as 97 octane.

Make sure you have a feeler gauge as opposed to those crap disc gappers which don’t work well. Motorcraft SP-534 come pre gapped at .030. I have gone through 12 of those plugs and every single one was gapped correctly out of the box.

I would inspect your plugs before buying new ones IMHO...

Also pick up some dielectric grease... you can put a small dab of that inside the boot where spark plug goes inside... that will save you later needing new boots every time you replace the plugs...



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[ZSHO]

Check the Porcelain part of the Spark plugs which are prone to cracking especially on the F-150 platform!
I guess the COP where changed correct?  CAC (intercooler) checked ?  Z

Ecoboost Misfire Issues Latest Information

! No longer available

 

[TopherSho]

No idea why one config would show misfires....Best thing is to validate all items in livelink so it talks to your car.

I don't know that the 97 oct in necessary...You Knock retard is fine

yeah this misfire log is from a config file i created doing just that.  i will create a new one with the regular things and re-validate again.  you saw weirdness in one of my knock logs so i think i need to make sure it is not a fluke.

 

[TopherSho]

Sadly i have no meth.  it would be the same amount of money to buy a can so i will try the 97 gas as a standby.  I may drive the tank almost dry and get a few gallons less.

 

[StealBlueSHO]

Use window washer fluid...


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[polskifacet]

Use window washer fluid...

Splash is my preference. If you add 3 bottles of heet it should be 50%.

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[TopherSho]

Use window washer fluid...


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I thought about that .. but i want a abnormally high octane ratio.  Then if it stutters at all its not the issue for sure.

 

[polskifacet]

Hmm spraying fixes my shitty fuel pressure with 30% so 50% should be ample. you can also use ethanol.

Ethanol: It is not as good as methanol, but it can be used as a 2nd best option if you can’t find methanol. It can also be mixed with water up to 50%

 

[StealBlueSHO]

I doubt octane is your issue. As AJP stated... your logs didn’t have enough knock to cause your problem. It’s your money obviously... just trying to save you some trouble.


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[TopherSho]

So here’s the nutty thing ..  after hammering on it  with 97 octane the issue is there but to a much lesser degree.  This is ethanol free 97.  I need to drive it more to make sure it’s not a fluke

Bought COP boots, and the windshield puller bit.  I will examine the pcm this weekend.

I’m going to make a new configure file to double check the Miss fire counter.  I’m also going to hunt down the ethonal counter.  The lamda/lambse thing looks fine but worth a look

I’m going to pull the front bank of plugs and inspect them .. if there remotely yucky i will pull them all even thought it is such a pain in the ass.

Updates letter ..