please help me understand what the crap is going on? (wastegates) : Resolved!!!

[8nutz8]

i know you may have covered this previously in the thread but did you pull all plugs and inspect? time to re-gap or replace maybe?


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[ajpturbo]

If it was my car I’d be running 5w-30 even though you have a 2010 since oil pressure is a function of viscosity and you are probably getting the oil warm enough to make 5w-30 have a low enough viscosity to yield proper pressure..

I thought you were going to look at the ecu connectors? I’m kind of curious about that...and if you felt like spending money I’d love to see that replaced altogether

 

[StealBlueSHO]

If it was my car I’d be running 5w-30 even though you have a 2010 since oil pressure is a function of viscosity and you are probably getting the oil warm enough to make 5w-30 have a low enough viscosity to yield proper pressure..

I thought you were going to look at the ecu connectors? I’m kind of curious about that...and if you felt like spending money I’d love to see that replaced altogether

Curious if replacing the ECU would yield a new strategy? Admittedly I don’t know enough in how the PCMs play into it.


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[TopherSho]

Not yet, but with 0 misfires,  and the issue not occurring under stock makes me think they are fine.  There less than 10k miles old and less than 5k on meth

I will probably look at the front bank for giggles.. if they are hideously bad I will look at the rear bank

 

[ajpturbo]

If it was my car I’d be running 5w-30 even though you have a 2010 since oil pressure is a function of viscosity and you are probably getting the oil warm enough to make 5w-30 have a low enough viscosity to yield proper pressure..

I thought you were going to look at the ecu connectors? I’m kind of curious about that...and if you felt like spending money I’d love to see that replaced altogether

Curious if replacing the ECU would yield a new strategy? Admittedly I don’t know enough in how the PCMs play into it.


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Well funny thing the ecu that z listed before had the original 4 digit tear sticker that shows in the tune when I open it for his and your old strategies...so I suspect once you install that ecu and the mechanic does the PMI or programmable module installation with ids it automatically updates it and you end up with the current calibrations which both of you run now

The reason I can’t see it being tune related is I’ve looked over his tune compared to stock at least 5 times and have rebuilt it from ground up and I originally think his file was derived from steal blues since they were identical so it’s easy for me to grab the items that I would universally apply and then tweak from that

 

[TopherSho]

If it was my car I’d be running 5w-30 even though you have a 2010 since oil pressure is a function of viscosity and you are probably getting the oil warm enough to make 5w-30 have a low enough viscosity to yield proper pressure..

I thought you were going to look at the ecu connectors? I’m kind of curious about that...and if you felt like spending money I’d love to see that replaced altogether

I will .. just being lazy and not convinced the ecu is the issue.. if it had been just as bad stock as on the full 15 pounds I would yanked it out already

 

[StealBlueSHO]

Ya know... I wonder if your car is doing the same thing in 1st and 2nd but because the gears are shorter you don’t notice it...


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[TopherSho]

Ya know... I wonder if your car is doing the same thing in 1st and 2nd but because the gears are shorter you don’t notice it...


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On the 15 pound tune 2nd gear can be pretty bad.. it’s worse in third since it is there for so long.

What else would act like a misfire.. but not register as a misfire or knock?  EDIT: and not show up as a torque source error

 

[FoMoCoSHO]

Ya know... I wonder if your car is doing the same thing in 1st and 2nd but because the gears are shorter you don’t notice it...


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On the 15 pound tune 2nd gear can be pretty bad.. it’s worse in third since it is there for so long.

What else would act like a misfire.. but not register as a misfire or knock?

T/C and/or ESC intervention

Electrical interference (Maybe log MAP/o2/FRP sensor voltage) Have you logged PCM voltage?

Failing sensor not quite below DTC threshold

Throttle Body (Does your "foot connection" feel the same when its occurring?) Do revs raise and fall as anticipated with foot movement?

Torque converter

 

[8nutz8]

Ya know... I wonder if your car is doing the same thing in 1st and 2nd but because the gears are shorter you don’t notice it...


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On the 15 pound tune 2nd gear can be pretty bad.. it’s worse in third since it is there for so long.

What else would act like a misfire.. but not register as a misfire or knock?  EDIT: and not show up as a torque source error

Exactly. Possibly spark blow-out. It would make sense since you experience the issue a lot more with higher boost levels. I've had spark blowout on previous platforms and had zero misfires register. Granted i'm not exactly sure how the ECU on a SHO would read a blowout occurrence and if it would read as a misfire or not.
What plugs did you install last and at what gap?

It's so quick and easy to check i would scratch it off the list.

 

[TopherSho]

Ya know... I wonder if your car is doing the same thing in 1st and 2nd but because the gears are shorter you don’t notice it...


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On the 15 pound tune 2nd gear can be pretty bad.. it’s worse in third since it is there for so long.

What else would act like a misfire.. but not register as a misfire or knock?  EDIT: and not show up as a torque source error

Exactly. Possibly spark blow-out. It would make sense since you experience the issue a lot more with higher boost levels. I've had spark blowout on previous platforms and had zero misfires register. Granted i'm not exactly sure how the ECU on a SHO would read a blowout occurrence and if it would read as a misfire or not.
What plugs did you install last and at what gap?

It's so quick and easy to check i would scratch it off the list.

NGK .28 gap 10k old,  5k on meth.. they are a pain in the ass for the back three. 

 

[8nutz8]

Front 3 are easy as pie and at least you'll have some idea where the gap stands.
The NGK's do tend to spread the gap pretty quickly and at 10k with a lot of WOT i'd be checking them as routine maintenance.

 

[TopherSho]

Front 3 are easy as pie and at least you'll have some idea where the gap stands.
The NGK's do tend to spread the gap pretty quickly and at 10k with a lot of WOT i'd be checking them as routine maintenance.

In all seriousness.. what would spark blowout read as?  Would not the ingnition on compression read as knock?  And if no detonation occurs would there not be a code or misfire??

 

[8nutz8]

Front 3 are easy as pie and at least you'll have some idea where the gap stands.
The NGK's do tend to spread the gap pretty quickly and at 10k with a lot of WOT i'd be checking them as routine maintenance.

In all seriousness.. what would spark blowout read as?  Would not the ingnition on compression read as knock?  And if no detonation occurs would there not be a code or misfire??

It MIGHT read as a misfire in our application. I just don't know. Maybe Brad can comment on that.

There is no ignition when spark blowout occurs though so it wouldn't read as knock. When cylinder pressure(boost) gets too high the spark isn't strong enough to jump the gap. Irregular fuel(or meth) mixtures can compound the issue as well so you've got all the ingredients for the issue.

Not saying i'm 100% sure this is the issue but i would hate to see you've gone through all this when it could have been fixed by something as simple as changing your plugs.

 

[TopherSho]

I did have bad wastegates and one cracked turbine .. 'dem puppies were were done. 

It is a tough call.  Plugs will be 80$ local .. I hate waiting.. it will take almost a 100$ out of my remaining budget.

What about the coils themselves.  what if one ore more are outputting out weak voltages .. ? what is the lifespan on those little guys ?

Gah ... 75$ each on Rockauto ... thats ... special.

 

[TopherSho]

I did have bad wastegates and one cracked turbine .. 'dem puppies were were done. 

It is a tough call.  Plugs will be 80$ local .. I hate waiting.. it will take almost a 100$ out of my remaining budget.

What about the coils themselves.  what if one ore more are outputting out weak voltages .. ? what is the lifespan on those little guys ?

Gah ... 75$ each on Rockauto ... thats ... special.

OK say I entertain the replacement of plugs.. based on everyone's comments it seems NGK is not a good choice ?   

what brand am i buying after i see the ECU connectors are fine ?

 

[SHOdded]

Coils rarely, rarely fail in Ecoboost applications.  More likely the boot will fail first.  As far as plugs, people routinely run the SP534s at stock gap (0.030) without issue.

 

[8nutz8]

i highly recommend SP542's. same heat range as the NGK's except they're made to run more boost and a smaller gap. they come pre gapped at .030 and are $6ea at oreilly.
they will hold the gap for much longer


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[StealBlueSHO]

I run sp534... never had a plug issue... I have gone through two sets...

I’m am over paranoid with my maintenance so most other people would still be on their first set


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[8nutz8]

^ Thats a good thing SBS! not saying he 534 is a bad option but they're made to run a .044 gap

id rather run a plug that's designed to run a small gap like we need and won't spread out as much over time.

542s also seem to be cheaper and require a lot less adjustment of the gap before installing.


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