I was curious how many of you actually prime start the ignition for a few seconds until you hear the fuel pump activate in the colder weather months! It makes it a lot easier for the oil to circulate to vital components and ultimately protect your engine from potential wear and tear... TIA. Z
PRIME (First Start) Your ECOBOOST!
- Thread starter ZSHO
- Start date
My SHO sometimes sits for as many as 10 days without starting. Before I start it (I call it my dry start protocol), I press the brake and gas to the floor and push and hold the start button. This allows the engine to spin with over without starting. I do this for about 10 seconds and then start my SHO like normal. This allows the oil pressure to build and get oil into the valve train and other areas. I also do this after every oil change.
Black Dream
New member
SM that's a great idea!
Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
How do you prime the ignition?
I have never done so the oil filter if it's doing it's job is supposed to keep oil in the lines and won't see the oil get slow till -10 -20 depending on brand of oil but think we all are typically using something that does well at -20
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
I have never done so the oil filter if it's doing it's job is supposed to keep oil in the lines and won't see the oil get slow till -10 -20 depending on brand of oil but think we all are typically using something that does well at -20
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Using ester based oil is a help in preventing dry starts because the polar nature of the ester molecule helps it cling to metal long after engine shutdown.
There is always a 1-2 second delay after startup (minimum) before oil is fully propagated throughout an engine. Many people have turned to specialized priming systems to prevent dry starts.
An example of a priming system
http://www.varnaproducts.com/EP-4_Pump.php
There is always a 1-2 second delay after startup (minimum) before oil is fully propagated throughout an engine. Many people have turned to specialized priming systems to prevent dry starts.
An example of a priming system
http://www.varnaproducts.com/EP-4_Pump.php
I think location of the oil filter is vital on how quickly the oil pump can generate flow to critical key components...
I guess many of us on the ecoboost platform are fortunate to have the oil filter at the very bottom of the engine when compared to other auto makers which the oil filter is located at the very Top of engine which takes some time for oil to flow especially on a cold morning startup. Z
I guess many of us on the ecoboost platform are fortunate to have the oil filter at the very bottom of the engine when compared to other auto makers which the oil filter is located at the very Top of engine which takes some time for oil to flow especially on a cold morning startup. Z
SilvererSHO
New member
SM105K said:
I guess I don't understand the logic in doing this??? You're still turning your engine over so what's the difference it it starts right away or your crank it over for 10 seconds? I would think you're doing more harm than good actually since oil is at least splashing around after it starts. Not so much when you're cranking at 150-200 rpm.
SilvererSHO said:
Turning over the engine at 150 to 200 rpm for 10 seconds creates less friction then a normal sat for along time dry start up. You will still have oil in main caps and rod bearings ect. I am not worried about the rotating assembly. I am worried about the valve train. These engines have long timing chains, hydraulic tensioners, and nylon chain guides. When I prime the system, I am getting oil to those components. If you don't over prolong use the chains literally eat through guides and start chewing through the tensioners. The chains can also stretch, and then you get the dreaded cold start rattle. I used to see it all the time in 4.6 and 5.4 Ford mod motors. This another reason why I always change my oil at 3K miles regardless what the manufacturers say.
Ask any engine builder and they will tell you, after a prolonged period of non operation they prefer you prime the engine. It is a primary reason why we have the ability to turn the engine over and not start it.
SilvererSHO
New member
SM105K said:
If you're doing it for the sole reason of better lubrication to the timing chains, guides and valvetrain then that's what I was referring to with being better off having oil splashing around than cranking it over at low rpm cranking speed for an extended time.
Ya, but cranking over the engine isn't at all the same as priming it.
SilvererSHO said:
Cranking it over at low rpm is the exact same thing as priming it. That is why Ford gives us the ability to do that. How do you think they prime the engine before first start?
You would be shocked how much oil is moved by the pump even at low rpm.
By all means, do whatever you want to your car. I have first hand knowledge and experience with these and mod motors. There is a difference in a dry start and a primed start.
SilvererSHO
New member
Ummmm....no it's not. By your logic just starting it is the same as priming it then too.
You honestly think FoMoCo does what you're doing as they roll off the assembly line? More likely is that they have a pressurized oil line they blast the engine with before they install a certain plug or fitting.
So? You're cranking it at low rpm for 10 seconds and no oil is splashing around at all and you have full oil pressure after a second or two (slightly more time after an oil change) so why crank it for 10 seconds? The same amount of oil is being delivered per revolution when the engine is running PLUS you have some splash lubrication going on. Don't you think that's doing more good for your timing chain and guides? When I think of priming a freshly built engine I think of the special adapter drive you spin the oil pump with a drill through the distributor hole on a small block chevy for example. When I think of priming an installed engine I think of a pressurized accumulator that you give the engine a pressurized shot of a quart or so of oil. Neither of those involve rotating the engine.
SilvererSHO said:
Tell you what. I have been around mod motors for a long time. Turning over the motor at low speed does prime the oil pump in these motors. Want proof? Hook a mechanical oil gauge to the engine and see for yourself. I know the truth.
I only do my dry start procedure if my car has set for a while (usually more then a week). Over time gravity pulls the oil back down out of the heads, chains, guides, ect.... If you start your car daily numerous times, I wouldn't worry about it. I don't. My SHO gets started maybe 8 times in a 10 day period.
Cranking it at low rpm for an extended period of time allows the oil to get into the chains and the guides. I use the ten second method. Your logic is wrong because it takes a couple of seconds at 1500 rpm to get the oil up and into the chains and guides. Then the flinging lubrication....lol. In those seconds that is where the damage is done. If you don't believe me, tell me about the contributing factors of chain stretch, chain guide wear, oil pressure chain tensioner wear, and most of all cold start rattle.
Cold start rattle can be helped buy turning over the engine and "priming" it in. Even ZSHO said that. If the cold start rattle is reduced, then guess what? Drum roll........There is oil pressure and lubrication on the chains and guides from the "low rpm priming"......novel concept huh?
Tell me one other reason by Ford allows us to crank the motor over for extended periods of time without it starting?
Also you live in Minnesota. The cold climate is why this thread was even started.
As noted, not needed if the car is started and driven daily, but it is good habit nonetheless. Ester oils help in this regard.
Also I believe the engine attempts to start for 10 seconds (at least with keyed ignition) on its own once the START/RUN command is received. You do not have to hold the key in that position. In a way it is priming the oil, but not quite, since injectors are not cut off. For that, the gas pedal MUST be pushed to the floor.
And yes, a true priming system would be a most welcome addition. Short of that, using low rpm cranking is not a bad way to go.
Also I believe the engine attempts to start for 10 seconds (at least with keyed ignition) on its own once the START/RUN command is received. You do not have to hold the key in that position. In a way it is priming the oil, but not quite, since injectors are not cut off. For that, the gas pedal MUST be pushed to the floor.
And yes, a true priming system would be a most welcome addition. Short of that, using low rpm cranking is not a bad way to go.