Rx Catch Can Install on Explorer Sport

avidmotion said:
Ok, nearly done....I used the horn spot in front fender. I didn't want to drill. I didn't want to hack the stock hoses.
The right port goes to rear valve cover with check valve inline. I have the CSS . So hose off front valve cover to charge pipe.  Valve cover capped.
So RX CSS oil filler cap hose has check valve and goes to T on fitting coming out of charge pipe. Other side of T goes to other outside fitting on the can. I used the vacuum from the intake manifold to the middle port on the can. I needed 4 ft of hose and got clamps for the check vales and T....I love have pics and better write up later when my mechanic finishes up and gives me the pics.
Click to expand...

Did you see the schematic in post #135? If I'm interpreting your installation correctly, you have port "C" running to the rear valve cover? The center port "B" should be running to the rear valve cover.

Ports "A" and "C" receive a vacuum (flow away) from the can and pull the "dirty" air in to port B (center port) from the rear valve cover - NO CHECK VALVE REQUIRED on the center port, since this should only be flowing in one direction at all times (into the can). One of these, A or C (doesn't matter which), should pull from the side of the intake manifold. The other should pull off the charge pipe(s). When hooked up properly, the can will always be pulling vacuum into either Port A or C. When under boost, vacuum will come from the charge pipes, when not under boost, the IM.

EDIT: Check out this image: http://www.rxspeedworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/rx-catch-can.jpg

Per an e-mail exchange I had with RXP, under normal operating circumstances, the CSS will pull vacuum (fresh air). Their diagram shows the css being installed in the top (clean) side of the airbox where vacuum is minimal. If memory serves, without reading back through the entire thread, I think JimiJak re-routed his CSS from the charge tube to the airbox. If you want to keep yours installed on the charge tube, make sure the check valve points towards the CSS, otherwise you might pull oil from the valve cover under boost. I vented my CSS to atmosphere with a small push-on filter - I'll try to get pictures posted later tonight. I will only install a check valve if I notice crankcase vapors in my garage.
 
Also on OUR set up the out ports  on the can, one from the passenger valve cover which has the check valve with arrow facing the can so flow WILL go that way. Middle port goes to manifold has no check valve and pulls vacuum out of can to manifold. Last outside port goes to the T of the charge pipe (previous B) and the CSS, with the check valve arrow facing the T, and cut in 4 inches from the CSS, flow leaving the CSS going towards the can. Sound ok
 
Sounds like something is still amiss, but before I comment further, I wanted to confirm I'm reading your setup properly.

If I interpret correctly you have:

OCC Outside Port 1 > Check Valve pointing TOWARDS can > Connects to Rear Valve Cover
OCC Middle Port > Direct connect to Intake Manifold (No Check Valve)
OCC Outside Port 2 > Check valve between OCC Port 2 and "T" (pointing AWAY from can) > T branches to CSS and Charge Pipe

Sorry for giving you the third degree. I'm worried something isn't right here, and I'm just trying to help.

 
MiWiAu said:
avidmotion said:
Ok, nearly done....I used the horn spot in front fender. I didn't want to drill. I didn't want to hack the stock hoses.
The right port goes to rear valve cover with check valve inline. I have the CSS . So hose off front valve cover to charge pipe.  Valve cover capped.
So RX CSS oil filler cap hose has check valve and goes to T on fitting coming out of charge pipe. Other side of T goes to other outside fitting on the can. I used the vacuum from the intake manifold to the middle port on the can. I needed 4 ft of hose and got clamps for the check vales and T....I love have pics and better write up later when my mechanic finishes up and gives me the pics.
Click to expand...

Did you see the schematic in post #135? If I'm interpreting your installation correctly, you have port "C" running to the rear valve cover? The center port "B" should be running to the rear valve cover.

Ports "A" and "C" receive a vacuum (flow away) from the can and pull the "dirty" air in to port B (center port) from the rear valve cover - NO CHECK VALVE REQUIRED on the center port, since this should only be flowing in one direction at all times (into the can). One of these, A or C (doesn't matter which), should pull from the side of the intake manifold. The other should pull off the charge pipe(s). When hooked up properly, the can will always be pulling vacuum into either Port A or C. When under boost, vacuum will come from the charge pipes, when not under boost, the IM.

EDIT: Check out this image: http://www.rxspeedworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/rx-catch-can.jpg

Per an e-mail exchange I had with RXP, under normal operating circumstances, the CSS will pull vacuum (fresh air). Their diagram shows the css being installed in the top (clean) side of the airbox where vacuum is minimal. If memory serves, without reading back through the entire thread, I think JimiJak re-routed his CSS from the charge tube to the airbox. If you want to keep yours installed on the charge tube, make sure the check valve points towards the CSS, otherwise you might pull oil from the valve cover under boost. I vented my CSS to atmosphere with a small push-on filter - I'll try to get pictures posted later tonight. I will only install a check valve if I notice crankcase vapors in my garage.
Click to expand...
Excellent explanation MiWiAu
 
ZSHO said:
Definitely some pic's will be viable in the process.  Z
Click to expand...

Totally! :)

Avidmotion, even if you could upload a napkin sketch of what you have while you're waiting on pictures from your mechanic, it would be helpful to confirm everything is hooked up correctly before everything goes back together.
 
progress on hold, we misunderstood the flow of the can, and direction of flow. In my set up, obviously  fouled, I thought we were to pull the vapor from the valve covers, and the intake manifold pulls vacuum out of can....this is wrong arrows on check valve go away from can, and I got the middle port and "c" ports crossed. And I need to drill the top of airbox and skip the T. Everything at stock to I figure it out tomorrow,  take new pics, document and see if it starts. Thanks for the. Once it all good I makea sticky for the SHO,  a little different then the trucks.
 
avidmotion said:
progress on hold, we misunderstood the flow of the can, and direction of flow. In my set up, obviously  fouled, I thought we were to pull the vapor from the valve covers, and the intake manifold pulls vacuum out of can....this is wrong arrows on check valve go away from can, and I got the middle port and "c" ports crossed. And I need to drill the top of airbox and skip the T. Everything at stock to I figure it out tomorrow,  take new pics, document and see if it starts. Thanks for the. Once it all good I makea sticky for the SHO,  a little different then the trucks.
Click to expand...

Cool, man! Sounds like you're on the right track to getting it worked out. :)

If you want to use the "T", it would be to pull from both the front and rear charge pipes. These would splice together and run to either port A or C to provide vacuum under boost. I did this with mine, but from earlier posts in this thread, it sounds like it is optional to tap both front and rear charge pipes.

I'm new around these parts, but my impression is that the SHO and XSport have fairly similar setups - much more so than either vs the longitudinal F150. The schematic I posted earlier is for the transverse 3.5L EB, so it should still work for you. Hopefully one of the other SHO guys can confirm this for sure.

I just got my XSport about 3 weeks ago so I'm still learning, but the information here and the community has proven invaluable! Keep us posted on your progress. :)
 
Ok, thanks everyone for the help, I got it all worked out, I will write it all up and post when done. Currently had a hose collapsed and waiting on a 90 degree quick disconnect to take the angle off the hose.
 
Resurrection once again!! haha
Just purchased JJ's RX standard can kit and am already busy planning the install. Couple general questions. From reading all the how to threads etc. it looks like the options are- (please correct me if any of the following is false)
Clean side setup:
1.Vent CSS to atmosphere w/breather filter(which tends to get oil soaked and leak vapor in the cabin)
2.Tap into the airbox (which could accumulate oil in the airbox unless a check-valve is used?)
      ^if tapping into the airbox does it need to be pre or post filter?
Can the CSS be removed and factory oil cap replaced while still leaving the dirty OCC side connected without harm to the operation of the system? This would be to avoid red flags on dealer visits.

Vacuum source:
Was it ever determined if both areas of the charge pipe(front side OEM port+rear BOV port) need to be used with the T or is one vacuum source sufficient?
^the answer to this question might determine if it's possible to run the system with the factory oil cap as a the OEM piece from front cam cover to charge pipe source would need to be installed when doing so. . If i'm not mistaken.

Did my best to get up to speed on everything before posting so hopefully the questions are clear.
Thanks to all members for their in-depth documentation of installs and results! Great community here!
 
Colorado-SHOBro said:
Resurrection once again!! haha
Just purchased JJ's RX standard can kit and am already busy planning the install. Couple general questions. From reading all the how to threads etc. it looks like the options are- (please correct me if any of the following is false)
Clean side setup:
1.Vent CSS to atmosphere w/breather filter(which tends to get oil soaked and leak vapor in the cabin)
2.Tap into the airbox (which could accumulate oil in the airbox unless a check-valve is used?)
      ^if tapping into the airbox does it need to be pre or post filter?
Can the CSS be removed and factory oil cap replaced while still leaving the dirty OCC side connected without harm to the operation of the system? This would be to avoid red flags on dealer visits.

Vacuum source:
Was it ever determined if both areas of the charge pipe(front side OEM port+rear BOV port) need to be used with the T or is one vacuum source sufficient?
^the answer to this question might determine if it's possible to run the system with the factory oil cap as a the OEM piece from front cam cover to charge pipe source would need to be installed when doing so. . If i'm not mistaken.

Did my best to get up to speed on everything before posting so hopefully the questions are clear.
Thanks to all members for their in-depth documentation of installs and results! Great community here!
Click to expand...

Hey Nutz, sorry I missed your questions here. A little tardy with my reply, but in case someone else comes along...

Re: CSS
1. This is how I have mine. I have not noticed any offensive vapors or oil on my filter yet.
2. You want to tap the clean/filtered (top) side of the lid, so you are not pulling unfiltered air into the engine.

Re: Vacuum source

On the intake pipes, I recall seeing a post from Tracy (original designer of RX can) that one intake connection is okay, but two is better. Typically, a single connection would be on the fore most pipe where the cleanside quick connect attaches, for ease of install. A second source can help improve efficiency and provide, I imagine, slightly more vacuum and evacuation when under boost. I opted to use two intake sources for maximum evacuation.

Technically, you could leave the cleanside hooked up to the intake pipe and use the factory oil cap, but IMO, this still leaves a potential for oil to get drawn back into the intake piping. If a CSS breather filter is getting oil soaked, why would one expect oil to not migrate to the intake end of the cleanside tube? Once oil is in the intake, there's nothing keeping it from eventually getting to your valves, so on my install, I decided to completely remove that connection. The only way oil will enter my intake now is from turbo blow by. Hopefully I'm a ways off from that... :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
MiWiAu said:
Colorado-SHOBro said:
Resurrection once again!! haha
Just purchased JJ's RX standard can kit and am already busy planning the install. Couple general questions. From reading all the how to threads etc. it looks like the options are- (please correct me if any of the following is false)
Clean side setup:
1.Vent CSS to atmosphere w/breather filter(which tends to get oil soaked and leak vapor in the cabin)
2.Tap into the airbox (which could accumulate oil in the airbox unless a check-valve is used?)
      ^if tapping into the airbox does it need to be pre or post filter?
Can the CSS be removed and factory oil cap replaced while still leaving the dirty OCC side connected without harm to the operation of the system? This would be to avoid red flags on dealer visits.

Vacuum source:
Was it ever determined if both areas of the charge pipe(front side OEM port+rear BOV port) need to be used with the T or is one vacuum source sufficient?
^the answer to this question might determine if it's possible to run the system with the factory oil cap as a the OEM piece from front cam cover to charge pipe source would need to be installed when doing so. . If i'm not mistaken.

Did my best to get up to speed on everything before posting so hopefully the questions are clear.
Thanks to all members for their in-depth documentation of installs and results! Great community here!
Click to expand...

Hey Nutz, sorry I missed your questions here. A little tardy with my reply, but in case someone else comes along...

Re: CSS
1. This is how I have mine. I have not noticed any offensive vapors or oil on my filter yet.
2. You want to tap the clean/filtered (top) side of the lid, so you are not pulling unfiltered air into the engine.

Re: Vacuum source

On the intake pipes, I recall seeing a post from Tracy (original designer of RX can) that one intake connection is okay, but two is better. Typically, a single connection would be on the fore most pipe where the cleanside quick connect attaches, for ease of install. A second source can help improve efficiency and provide, I imagine, slightly more vacuum and evacuation when under boost. I opted to use two intake sources for maximum evacuation.

Technically, you could leave the cleanside hooked up to the intake pipe and use the factory oil cap, but IMO, this still leaves a potential for oil to get drawn back into the intake piping. If a CSS breather filter is getting oil soaked, why would one expect oil to not migrate to the intake end of the cleanside tube? Once oil is in the intake, there's nothing keeping it from eventually getting to your valves, so on my install, I decided to completely remove that connection. The only way oil will enter my intake now is from turbo blow by. Hopefully I'm a ways off from that... :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply Mikey. Yeah i ended up reaching out to Tracey and he answered those questions for me. Everything you stated is accurate.
The can is installed and seems to be working perfectly. I did use both vacuum sources but will disconnect the front charge pipe location to make use of the OEM clean side system for dealer visits and it will only be using one vacuum source in that case.
I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though. If i am mistaken . . what was the cause of the smell in the cabin? or was it ever determined?

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)
 
Colorado-SHOBro said:
I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)
Click to expand...

I recall reading the same thing about fuel/oil vapors with CSS VTA. Lucky for me, this has not been my personal experience.

I'm subbed to your how-to thread, so keep us posted on your clear tubing observations (great idea)!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
MiWiAu said:
Colorado-SHOBro said:
I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)
Click to expand...

I recall reading the same thing about fuel/oil vapors with CSS VTA. Lucky for me, this has not been my personal experience.

I'm subbed to your how-to thread, so keep us posted on your clear tubing observations (great idea)!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
will do and thank you. i'm fighting the urge to empty the can but would rather get at least 500 miles on it first.
just curious - did you notice an increase in gas mileage at all after installing the catch can?
i'm hoping that will be a nice bi-product!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
MiWiAu said:
Colorado-SHOBro said:
I remember reading earlier in this thread that some guys were experiencing oil/gas smells in the cabin and/or oil pooling in the airbox. I thought the cause of the smell in the cabin was from venting the CSS to atmosphere. Correct me if i'm wrong on that though

Right now i'm temporarily using a clear hose for the CSS so i can see if any oil accumulates from the burps transitioning into boost. 175miles on the system now and i haven't seen anything-also no smells in the cabin so smooth sailing :)
Click to expand...

I recall reading the same thing about fuel/oil vapors with CSS VTA. Lucky for me, this has not been my personal experience.

I'm subbed to your how-to thread, so keep us posted on your clear tubing observations (great idea)!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

JLT uses air brake hoses for their separator, and the gas vapors weep right through the air brake hose, especially because Thermoid's air brake hose has pin hole vents to allow moisture from air brake systems to evacuate! I called Thermoid and they advised against using their air brake hose for this type of application and recommended their PCV/EEC/Fuel hose. After 2 weeks, the air brake hoses were coated in a sheen of oil/gas residue and my entire garage smelled like someone poured gasoline all over the ground. JLT claimed they sell thousands of these without any complaints, but another Explorer Sport owner complained about the same issue. The solution was to replace the air brake hoses with PCV/vapor hose.

My guess is that JLT sells thousands of the Mustang kits, which use the pre-formed hard nylon tubes that the OEM typically uses in this application. I've had my JLT 2.0 separator on my Mustang for 2 years without any problems.

In any case, all the JLT caught on my SHO was water and gas vapor residue, no engine oil. I think it is because the SHO's made before NOV 2014 come with an oil separator on the valve cover that works fairly well.
 
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