Seafoam or similar intake cleaning

[jtoddk98]

Does anyone have a write up on how to to a proper seafoam intake cleaning on a SHO? My car has 46k and when I get to 50k I have decided to save the money and not do the bg service. Instead, I want my transmission flushed. Seafoam looks to do a pretty good job of cleaning.


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[BiGMaC]

As long as you go in with eyes open and realize that only manual cleaning will get the intake valves clean.... Even the BG website explains it in their testing with a SHO over 60k miles total... Just the way gas GDI engines are. 

 

[jtoddk98]

As long as you go in with eyes open and realize that only manual cleaning will get the intake valves clean.... Even the BG website explains it in their testing with a SHO over 60k miles total... Just the way gas GDI engines are.

I wonder if a independent euro car shop would walnut blast my calves like they do with the DI BMWs. I really don't baby the car and it has run synthetic oil from new. The buildup shouldn't be that bad. I don't think ford has an approved cleaning process yet. A ford tech in a YouTube video said that the heat or carbon chunks kill the turbos.


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[BiGMaC]

As long as you go in with eyes open and realize that only manual cleaning will get the intake valves clean.... Even the BG website explains it in their testing with a SHO over 60k miles total... Just the way gas GDI engines are.

I wonder if a independent euro car shop would walnut blast my calves like they do with the DI BMWs. I really don't baby the car and it has run synthetic oil from new. The buildup shouldn't be that bad. I don't think ford has an approved cleaning process yet. A ford tech in a YouTube video said that the heat or carbon chunks kill the turbos.


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Maybe the Bimini boys have the tool... Their problem is reported as one of the worst.  From what I read keeping the solids out of the turbos is a key... YouTube has some vids on manual cleaning... Looks like a job I want someone else to do!

 

[SHOdded]

Personally, I'd save FOR a GDI cleaning service BG or Walnut etc (see this discussion), and not a transmission flush.  The transmissions are pretty sturdy, but the PTU is another story.

You can approximate a transmission flush by draining the fluid multiple times through the drain plug.

[list type=decimal]
[*]Before starting this process, get the transmission up to operating temp with a good run 10-20 miles non-city, then park it. 
[*]With your foot on the brake, run through the gears each time before starting the drain process.
[*]Drain the transmission fluid into a graduated pan.
[*]Fill new transmission fluid (same quantity as drained).
[*]Start the engine, let it run for 3 minutes.
[*]Repeat from step 2 until in total you have put in 15 new quarts or more.
[/list]

Once you have equaled or exceeded the stated transmission fluid capacity with the drain & fills, you should be good.  The manual says 10 quarts, but probably does not include the fluid held in the torque converter, not sure on what that amount is.  On the Edge (6F50), a total of 15 new quarts is recommended with this procedure, so I would think the same with the SHO (6F55).

Some people even set up a container of new fluid with tubing that goes into the fill tube (sealed of course) to gravity/vacuum draw new fluid into the transmission as the old fluid drains.  If you haven't done this before, avoid it for now, to be on the safe side.

You can tap into the cooler lines and do a flush yourself that way, but I don't recommend that for folks without significant experience in automotive servicing.

 

[J-Will]

I use SeaFoam in all my vehicles, though I have yet to use it on the SHO (only 3k miles).  When I do it, I will dump it in the fuel take, crankcase via oil fill (just before an oil change) and find the brake booster line to feed a mist into.  I will probably even try to feed a mist of it through the intake/ throttle body though based on BIGMaC's reply this is a waste of product... perhaps preventative? Perhaps it just gives piece of mind. 

I was thinking about waiting for the 10k mark to perform the first SeaFoam treatment, though since I am using the vehicle far less than anticipated, I may do it around the next oil change.

 

[mrpositraction]

I use SeaFoam in all my vehicles, though I have yet to use it on the SHO (only 3k miles).  When I do it, I will dump it in the fuel take, crankcase via oil fill (just before an oil change) and find the brake booster line to feed a mist into.  I will probably even try to feed a mist of it through the intake/ throttle body though based on BIGMaC's reply this is a waste of product... perhaps preventative? Perhaps it just gives piece of mind. 

I was thinking about waiting for the 10k mark to perform the first SeaFoam treatment, though since I am using the vehicle far less than anticipated, I may do it around the next oil change.

Make sure the brake boost line goes to the I take. I did this in my 2011 F150 with no problem. Then on my 2013 F150 that same brake booster line went to the passenger valve cover.

I haven't looked at my 2015 SHO yet to see where this could be done.


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[SHOdded]

Be sure to only MIST the fluid, whatever you use, taking a cue from the methanol injection setups.  The GDI system isn't accounting for fluids through that route, so whatever comes through should be well vaporized.  I don't know if hydrolock could be a problem in an extreme situation, maybe somebody could speak to that.

 

[wasinger3000]

I would just buy the seafoam aerosol can that comes with the induction spray hose. It's made for this and you won't overdo it.

 

[SHOdded]

This one?  http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/

 

[J-Will]

This one?  http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/

Yes, thats for spraying.  I also use the larger can to dump into the fuel tank and crankcase. 

 

[wasinger3000]

This one?  http://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray/

That's the one! I took it a step further and sprayed seafoam's "deep creep" through the intake and let it sit for 12 hours. I had wonderful results. Tops of my pistons became quite "purdy".

 

[SHOdded]

Did you suction out the deep creep after letting it sit, or burn it off?

 

[IHeartGroceries]

Your pistons stand a chance. Deposits are less severe there. If deposits are bad on your pistons, it'd be a good idea to correct the issue, to prevent hot spotting. It's the backs of your intake valves that don't stand a chance. And seafoam will absolutely not cut through that stuff, after so long. If you want to pay, the media blasting is a good service. If you're DIY guy, a manual cleaning IS possible. Use a solvent and a trusty brush. Don't lose bristles. Vacuum out what's left behind.

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[SHOdded]

Bristle brush attached to a power drill, after solvent soak?  Also, do you have to have piston TDC before you do the manual cleaning for that port, or anything like that?

 

[wasinger3000]

Did you suction out the deep creep after letting it sit, or burn it off?

I looked around for oil ontop of the Pistons but did see any puddles so u assume it either "creeped" past the rings. I didn't use a whole can, just enough to wet the surfaces. Either way changing oil is a must do after this.

 

[SHOdded]

Thanks!  Did find a CRC product video on YT here:  CRC Intake Valve Cleaner on Motorhead Garage Industry Update

Newer cars with gasoline direct injected engines get to run a little rough after 5,000-10,000 miles. They build up a lot of carbon particularly on the intake valve because they no longer have the injector and the intake manifold washing that valve. It carbons up and your vehicle loses power, performance and fuel economy.
New CRC GDI IVD™ Intake Valve Cleaner reaches the intake valves at 150X the concentration of premium fuel additives. It’s easy to use - go behind the mass air flow sensor, put the Permastraw into the intake system, spray a 30-second blast with the engine at 2,000 RPMs. CRC Intake Valve Cleaner lifts the carbon off the back side and the face of the intakes valves, helps to clean up the combustion chamber and restores power and performance. Also great for standard PFI gasoline engines! For more info and a $5 rebate, go to http://crcintakevalvecleaner.com

 

[jtoddk98]

Looks like I'll be saving up for the BG service now. So much for a $10 cleaner in a can


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[glock-coma]

Looks like I'll be saving up for the BG service now. So much for a $10 cleaner in a can


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Complete bg service in my area was 100 plus tax and shop fees.

I'll try and get some after pics as I have put about 5k miles since the cleaning was done.

Before pics and videos should be on this site somewhere.
Also posted on YouTube under 2010 taurus sho befor BG intake cleaning.

 

[IHeartGroceries]

Bristle brush attached to a power drill, after solvent soak?  Also, do you have to have piston TDC before you do the manual cleaning for that port, or anything like that?

Yes, precicely. TDC (or close to it, for full valve seat). A long shanked brush by hand, or by drill. B12 is an excellent choice for solvent. Allow to soak, and manually remove.

However, for those with a decent aircompressor, this is totally DIY at home WITH walnut media. You can buy tons of it off of the web for cheap. You'd need a decently high reserve, CFM compressor, a media blaster/hopper (which is like $30 or $40 and $30 worth of media. Solvent, a vacuum cleaner of course...maybe a few other odds and ends and your tool chest. Let the solvent soak, pump it out, blast it, vacuum out media...voila. All.we need is somebody with some spare time, materials and an camera for a how to. I could be that guy, buT I'm up to my eyeballs in other projects ATM.

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