Vacuum/Boost Leak - Need HELP!
- Thread starter derfdog15
- Start date
If you pull off that vac line that goes to the solenoid from the charge pipe to test make sure you watch the boost gauge very very close...the tune you have that uses throttle to control boost should step in but how quickly i dont know....it wouldnt take long to make 30 psi in the midrange if the turbo is running wide open with a closed gate
Frozen Blue said:
That's why I asked haha. I know that is one method used to test for other models of car.
Another thing I read, was that in some cars (WRX STI for instance) this type of behavior can occur with a clogged cat. I don't have the two main cats due to my SW Catless pipes, but still have the 3rd cat. However, I feel this is pretty unlikely, since AJP ran the same pipes without issue.
AJP turbo said:
Guess I'll check the local stealership and see how much they want for a solenoid so I can test it. They quoted me $235 for the plastic intake side piping that has the U pipe, and connection from rear turbo to CAI, when I asked about the small rubber connection there. Looks like the part is ~$30 online, but who knows how much they will want...
AJP turbo said:
So, would it be worth testing like that, or try and get another solenoid and swap that instead of risking 30psi?
Update/question time
I took the solenoid connections off the car and blew through the solenoid similar to testing a pcv valve for the boost solenoid z referenced. One of the inlets (from the rear turbo) blows straight through and is audable. The other (front turbo) is completely closed in that condition. No air moves through. This tells me that it isn't most likely the solenoid, as the two turbo inlets are doing opposite actions. Can someone confirm this?
There seem to be no leaks/intercooler issues as well so this hopefully is the issue.
I took the solenoid connections off the car and blew through the solenoid similar to testing a pcv valve for the boost solenoid z referenced. One of the inlets (from the rear turbo) blows straight through and is audable. The other (front turbo) is completely closed in that condition. No air moves through. This tells me that it isn't most likely the solenoid, as the two turbo inlets are doing opposite actions. Can someone confirm this?
There seem to be no leaks/intercooler issues as well so this hopefully is the issue.
ZSHO said:
Oil pressure seems fine. Engine runs perfect out of boost, and gets pissed when trying to make full boost due to what I assume is the solenoid. I am going to call my local dealer and a few within ~2 hours and see if I can source the solenoid locally and have the car fixed ASAP. If not I'll get it online.
Im going to leave the stock chargepipes on to test, and will go back to EPP pipes after I get it all fixed. Dont want to add more variables.
I wasnt sure what to expect solenoid wise, as I didnt know if it was default to open or default to closed, but since one turbo path is open and the other closed that indicates something is wrong to me, as I feel they both should be the same.
Luckily its literally a 2 minute job, and most of that is drinking a beer at the end to celebrate (ofcouse after test driving since drinking and driving is a no-no).
Hopefully I can source one locally and get it fixed. Sabtaj1 sent a homeade boost leak device for me to use if need be, if the solenoid fixes the issue, I may still do a leak test just to be safe. But shoutout to him for that. And shoutout to you Z and to AJP for continued support.
Shoutout to everyone else for moral support (except that dude that said my turbo could be blown, jk)
I feel this is adequate for this thread....
Spot on I believe. Line from each turbo goes into the solenoid, and then the chargepipe line goes on the other side. Solenoid controls the path between the chargepipe line and the wastegate lines.
I talked to 3 dealers, finally found one that has it (1Hr away). Part is on hold and my dad is going to pick it up. They confirmed that it should do the same thing on both turbos. So basically, one turbo is operating normal, and the other is on wastegate spring pressure currently. As such, it makes sense that I can get a bit above wastegate pressure but then it drops back to spring pressure.
Its a $25 part. Hoping that the issue is fixed. Seems so ass backwards that a $25 part can cause such a large issue, and without codes to boot, but if I get it fixed I'll be happy so we just gotta see what happens.
For anyone else that comes upon this: check this out (even though its for subarus primarily): https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200025234-Boost-Issue-Diagnosis
No codes, just low boost for a failing boost control solenoid (ford parts call it a "Turbocharger Bypass Valve"). I'll report back later and see if we can nail 16psi again.
I talked to 3 dealers, finally found one that has it (1Hr away). Part is on hold and my dad is going to pick it up. They confirmed that it should do the same thing on both turbos. So basically, one turbo is operating normal, and the other is on wastegate spring pressure currently. As such, it makes sense that I can get a bit above wastegate pressure but then it drops back to spring pressure.
Its a $25 part. Hoping that the issue is fixed. Seems so ass backwards that a $25 part can cause such a large issue, and without codes to boot, but if I get it fixed I'll be happy so we just gotta see what happens.
For anyone else that comes upon this: check this out (even though its for subarus primarily): https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200025234-Boost-Issue-Diagnosis
No codes, just low boost for a failing boost control solenoid (ford parts call it a "Turbocharger Bypass Valve"). I'll report back later and see if we can nail 16psi again.
Solenoid fixed it. My testing method was incorrect, as the behavior I described is normal for the solenoid wth no power(new one did it as well) but car runs better for sure. Actually saw it hold boost and climb past 10psi. Gauge is probably a little low on indication since I left the TiAL bov reference connected but open on the other end while testing. I am going to put the vacuum lines back to stock and call it fixed. Going under the car in a few minutes to do my next oil change, so I'll make extra sure everything is proper at the turbos once more.
For now I'll just leave the stock charge piping and drive it as is. If I get time to go to a track again I'll swap to the epp stuff for that but according to the dealer the solenoid came from, stock bov operation is engineered as such to help with solenoid operation. May be a crock of **** but for now it runs right so I'll leave it alone.
One day I'll do a custom front mount and atp turbos and run it all out, but seems I've reached the limits of what I should do with my DD and only car available currently.
Thanks for the help guys
For now I'll just leave the stock charge piping and drive it as is. If I get time to go to a track again I'll swap to the epp stuff for that but according to the dealer the solenoid came from, stock bov operation is engineered as such to help with solenoid operation. May be a crock of **** but for now it runs right so I'll leave it alone.
One day I'll do a custom front mount and atp turbos and run it all out, but seems I've reached the limits of what I should do with my DD and only car available currently.
Thanks for the help guys
SHOdded said:
It did it with both stock and non-stock pipes, in fact, after further testing, seems to still be messed up. Spoke to soon, due to seeing better boost but not perfect. Solenoid fixed some of the issue, still seems I have a wastegate issue OR a leak, but did a leak test and there were no leaks to be found.
So either a turbo is in fact bad, or a wastegate is bad. Replacing wastegates would be probably in the neighborhood of $200-$400 for parts. And if that doesn't fix it, then what?
Since the car drives fine in town, and on the highway to an extent, just doesnt pull super hard, I am just saying screw it and leaving it alone.
I can't imagine a shop would have much better luck, other than throwing parts at it, and whether those parts fix it or not, charging me for them.
I'll leave it alone, and save up for ATPs, and a custom front mount. Take it to the local fab shop, and have them install said ATPs and front mount, and ask them to double check all the connections.
As a last resort, I pulled the negative off of the battery. I'm leaving it like that overnight, incase there is a U or B code, or something, that is stored that I do not have access to via the SCT X4.
I may also just say screw it, and trade the SHO in for something once its payed off, but who knows. There is really nothing else I can figure out that would be the issue, short of throwing a lot of money at trial and error for parts. If it is infact a turbo (or the wastegates), then the ATPs will fix that. If it is infact the intercooler, custom front mount will fix that. Anything else, and who the hell knows.
Also thinking maybe somehow a MAP sensor is bad? Does that seem reasonable at all?
Worth testing with the 2bar tune?
Honestly considering putting the car completely back to stock, minus the axle backs, and doing some emissions drive cycles. Then taking it to an obscure dealer that hasn't seen the car, and having them diagnose. If it fixes by going to stock then one of the parts is the issue. If it doesnt, then the dealer can pay for a new turbo under warranty. No idea.
Worth testing with the 2bar tune?
Honestly considering putting the car completely back to stock, minus the axle backs, and doing some emissions drive cycles. Then taking it to an obscure dealer that hasn't seen the car, and having them diagnose. If it fixes by going to stock then one of the parts is the issue. If it doesnt, then the dealer can pay for a new turbo under warranty. No idea.
Frozen Blue
New member
Before you get crazy, try doing a pressure test. Cap off both turbos and the throttle body inlet tube. On the cap for the throttle inlet tube drill/tap holes to take a compressed air nozzle and another to install a cheap pressure gauge. Pressurize the system to 20psi or so and see if it holds. You can source all of the necessary items from the hardware store for cheap. That will rule out all leaks period.
I would try the Battery re-learn procedure. Z
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM#]! No longer available]! No longer available
[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM#]! No longer available]! No longer available
Frozen Blue said:
I think one of the forum members sent him a pressure test kit....
StealBlueSho said:
Yup, I got it today, and didn't find any issues with it. I went to ~15PSI using the 12V air compressor and no leaks to be found. So if there is a leak then I am both blind and deaf.
I really think a wastegate actuator is bad or something like that. But I dont want to throw more money at parts that might fix it. It should take ~ 1 day to take the car back fully stock. Then I just need to drive it a bit to get it emissions ready. After that just need to take it to a dealer and tell them it seems "low on power at higher RPMs". They'll say there are no codes, and I'll say it just seems like it isnt making boost based on owning another turbo car.
Go from there.
As of now, if the battery reset doesnt fix it, ill wait till may (my birthday, when my parents come back to visit since some of the parts are at their house) - put it back to stock, take it to a dealer.
derfdog15 said:
If going back to stock doesn't fix it, then I would do the above mentioned. Worst case is they say no, best case is they replace it. You would be no worse than you are now.
