Vacuum/Boost Leak - Need HELP!

I understand your frustration man. If you're doubting the wastegate that's easy to check. The air line going from the EBC to each wastegate is easy to access. Pressurize that line, the wastegate arm should not move until 4-5psi right? I did that when installing a GTX2867 on my ST when I set the preload to 1 bar.
 
StealBlueSho said:
derfdog15 said:
Also thinking maybe somehow a MAP sensor is bad? Does that seem reasonable at all?

Worth testing with the 2bar tune?

Honestly considering putting the car completely back to stock, minus the axle backs, and doing some emissions drive cycles. Then taking it to an obscure dealer that hasn't seen the car, and having them diagnose. If it fixes by going to stock then one of the parts is the issue. If it doesnt, then the dealer can pay for a new turbo under warranty. No idea.



If going back to stock doesn't fix it, then I would do the above mentioned. Worst case is they say no, best case is they replace it. You would be no worse than you are now.

My though exactly. Either I find out something I did caused an issue (unlikely since i haven't done anything since december) OR there is an issue on a stock part. Hopefully they could get it fixed if that was the case.

Frozen Blue said:
I understand your frustration man. If you're doubting the wastegate that's easy to check. The air line going from the EBC to each wastegate is easy to access. Pressurize that line, the wastegate arm should not move until 4-5psi right? I did that when installing a GTX2867 on my ST when I set the preload to 1 bar.

My issue is basically that I am being held to wastegate spring pressure. Car makes a bit above 5 psi for a few moments (ive seen a little over 10 on the intro to 3rd/4th if driving hard) but it gets pulled back to 5psi and held there.
 
Further update, as it sits the issue is better but not fixed totally. Boost peaks and holds to 11.5psi and after 4 or so seconds drops off when underboost is detected.
 
Are you able to reach the wastegate arms and see if you can move them to see if they are on a bind oe stuck...this can only be a few things i would think...massive air leak or one or both gates are stuck open since you have replaced sensors and removed piping
 
AJP turbo said:
Are you able to reach the wastegate arms and see if you can move them to see if they are on a bind oe stuck...this can only be a few things i would think...massive air leak or one or both gates are stuck open since you have replaced sensors and removed piping

I'll try and get my hand to the wastegate arms and pull and see what happens. I am also planning to do another pressure test just to be certain before I send Sabtaj1 his tester back. Since it doesn't seem to have any leaks this is the only reasonable explanation.

StealBlueSho said:
FYI... at one point sticky wastegates were an issue with these cars... at least on the 2010-2012MY...

Now they tell me :/...I still think to get them replaced under warranty I would have to put the car to stock, otherwise Ford would probably say I put "too much boost" through them and caused premature failure.

ZSHO said:

Thanks Z. That pretty much confirms that underboost is either from a major leak, which I don't seem to have, or wastegates. I'll try and check them by hand, if they seem sticky and I can get them unstuck maybe I can hit normal boost again. If that is the case then I may just say screw it and get the turbosmart actuators, or just pony up for the ATPs.
 
Ever figure this issue out?

I'm having a similar issue with my 2012 MKS.  I noticed it feeling slower, so hooked up my boost gauge.  I'm hitting a max of 11psi with a 3 bar tune installed, 2 bar tune installed, and returned to stock.  I don't hear any weird noises, but it seems something is holding me at 11psi.  No codes and car is operating completely normal, other than feeling slow.
 
I haven't, but to be honest I'm not even sure how to check?  I'm mechanically inclined, but never dealt with a turbo car before.

Guess I could just take the BOV's off and check the gaskets?
 
Ryan02Stang said:
Ever figure this issue out?

I'm having a similar issue with my 2012 MKS.  I noticed it feeling slower, so hooked up my boost gauge.  I'm hitting a max of 11psi with a 3 bar tune installed, 2 bar tune installed, and returned to stock.  I don't hear any weird noises, but it seems something is holding me at 11psi.  No codes and car is operating completely normal, other than feeling slow.
What IAT Temps are you seeing!  It should not exceed 150-F IIRC!
Check the CAC(Intercooler) for any debris & obstructed air-flow. 

Try cleaning the MAP & IAT Sensors with some Mass-air-flow cleaner to see if it helps any!
I guess you can always perform a  PCM Reset!  Z

[flash=480,380]https://www.youtube.com/embed/hZAsoqmqhdM[/flash]​
 
Yes take the off and inspect.  If there is a tear, it will be obvious.  As always, check fir loose hoses atop the intake manifold.  Also, turbo piping for loose clamps, cracks, accumulating oiliness.
 
ZSHO said:
Ryan02Stang said:
Ever figure this issue out?

I'm having a similar issue with my 2012 MKS.  I noticed it feeling slower, so hooked up my boost gauge.  I'm hitting a max of 11psi with a 3 bar tune installed, 2 bar tune installed, and returned to stock.  I don't hear any weird noises, but it seems something is holding me at 11psi.  No codes and car is operating completely normal, other than feeling slow.
What IAT Temps are you seeing!  It should not exceed 150-F IIRC!
Check the CAC(Intercooler) for any debris & obstructed air-flow. 

Try cleaning the MAP & IAT Sensors with some Mass-air-flow cleaner to see if it helps any!
I guess you can always perform a  PCM Reset!  Z

[flash=480,380]https://www.youtube.com/embed/hZAsoqmqhdM[/flash]​

I'll clean the IAT's and see what temps I'm getting. 

I cleaned my MAP sensor, and even swapped my 2 bar sensor back in a loaded a 2 bar tune....same thing, 11psi max. 

I still haven't seen anything that looks like it would be causing a leak, so I'm thinking maybe a wastegate problem.  I'll definitely check the IAT's tomorrow.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 
Also, does anyone know the part number for the wastegate actuator?  And why the Turbosmart ones only say 2013+?  I didn't know there was changes in the turbos in 2013.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 
Hmm i'd be surprised if the Cans were bad (do you mean the cans on the turbo?)  If they were you normally should get a code (AJP? comfirm?) when the ECU command XX but only registers XX lbs.

if you mean the spider (the bypass valve / actuator)... a bunch of places  has a replacement unit for 35$  **BUT** i'd wager the Hoses are bad before the unit.  if you have a lift its super easy trace them and check them  or just ouright replace them for 15$ and then secure them with something more stout.

https://www.1aauto.com/turbocharger-bypass-valve-solenoid-ford-oem-bl3z-9k378-a/i/fdzmx00010
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-solenoid-valve-bl3z9k378a

 
Still haven't figured it out and haven't found a leak anywhere.  IAT temps look normal I believe.  I got around to taking a datalog, and it looks like the boost is short of what is being commanded and the wastegate is always near 100% during full throttle.

Datalog attached
 
I've replaced the boost control solenoid and inspected the vacuum lines and still having the same issue.  Checked the BOV's, cleaned the MAP and IAT sensors and also didn't fix anything.

Looking at my datalogs I'm mostly only seeing 4-11psi, with the car commanding 14.5psi of boost.  Very surprised I've not gotten a low boost code.

Wastegate % is 100 for almost my entire datalog when under full throttle. 

Still going to keep messing with it, but I'm pretty much out of ideas at this point.
 
FWIW check the wastegate Hose that leads from the Boost reference solenoid,which then feeds to the rear turbo actuator I believe! I don't have PICS @ the moment but might be worth while to inspect that particular hose in question!  Z 

Highlighted in Red!​

 
2rdi981.jpg
 
It's hard to imagine both actuators having an issue, but I would confirm that they are working properly, since there is no leak topside.
 
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