What have you done to your Ecoboosted vehicle today?
- Thread starter 4DRHTRD
- Start date
Had the transmission fluid, PTU, and RDU fluids all changed by the driveline specialist at the dealer after hours last night. He saved me samples of each fluid. All were fine. The PTU fluid was solid black and nasty, but nothing unusual according to him. Car has ~30,000 miles on it now. I will probably plan on 10,000 mile changes for the PTU since it's so easy to have him do it. Plus, like he said, it holds so little fluid that it's scary.
I could get used to not being the one getting dirty. Usually work on my own stuff, but it was sure easier and faster to have him do it.
I could get used to not being the one getting dirty. Usually work on my own stuff, but it was sure easier and faster to have him do it.
SHOdded said:
Motorcraft Mercon LV for the transmission. The PTU and RDU got private label stuff that the dealership uses (supplied free to me by their rep for "trial"). I'm too cheap to turn down freebies.
Here's what went in...
I have done Blackstone analysis with other cars for oil, but never done one with gear oil. Think it would tell me anything other than it's gross and broken down? LOL I'm up for the idea if you think it would be meaningful. It was the factory fill at 30,000 miles.
SHOdded said:
Both are made by Warren Oil. They make quite a few brands and specialize in supplying smaller shops with higher quality fluids that they back with big warranties. Their transmission fluids even come with a 10,000 mile guarantee on the transmission not failing. Or something like that. They supplied me with 3 gallons of a full synthetic universal transmission fluid, but I didn't feel safe using it for this car. I gave it to the driveline tech. He will find a good use for it I'm sure.
I'm normally a brand name snob when it comes to fluids, but a few of the mechanics I respect within my wife's dealer network swear by Daytona/Coastal and use it in their personal stuff. I would not have considered it if it weren't full synthetic.
Here's the PDS on the gear lube... http://www.warrenoil.com/MSDS-Spec/PDS/Coastal/PDS%20-%20Coastal%20Full%20Synthetic%20GL-5%20Gear%20Oils.pdf
Motorcraft 75W90:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%20Full%20Synthetic%20Manual%20Transmission%20Fluid.pdf
Motorcraft 75W140:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%2075W140%20High%20Performance%20Rear%20Axle%20Lubricant.pdf
for comparison.
Look at the Motorcraft 75W90 VI, holy cow, that's good! But yeah, looks like good specs on the Warren stuff.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%20Full%20Synthetic%20Manual%20Transmission%20Fluid.pdf
Motorcraft 75W140:
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/additionalinfo/Product%20Data%20Sheet%2075W140%20High%20Performance%20Rear%20Axle%20Lubricant.pdf
for comparison.
Look at the Motorcraft 75W90 VI, holy cow, that's good! But yeah, looks like good specs on the Warren stuff.
I am not an oil expert, but I think those show that the Coastal gear oil probably uses a better base stock since it has a higher flash point and lower Viscosity Index, but the Motorcraft seems to be better in regards to pour point temperatures. I also see that Motorcraft's 75-90 is a GL-4 fluid where Coastal is a GL-5. The specs seem to show that the Motorcraft 75-90 is not as good of a fluid as their 75-140. I had the parts guy at the dealership once tell me that the Motorcraft 75-90 is not a true synthetic despite what it says on the bottle, but I blew it off.
Looking at Amsoil to compare as well, it seems closer to the specs of Coastal. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2043.pdf
SHOdded, do you have a better interpretation? As I said, I'm no expert.
Looking at Amsoil to compare as well, it seems closer to the specs of Coastal. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2043.pdf
SHOdded, do you have a better interpretation? As I said, I'm no expert.
Right on, the one thing being a higher VI is a good thing. Means more resistance to change in viscosity properties, which generally means a longer service life for the fluid in question. RDU fluid in these cars is rarely ever an issue, it's been the PTU for some reason (yes, many have speculated ...) and that too primarily in the SHO (could be skewed statistically by production numbers).
Just finished doing the passenger side front brakes. PP caliper, Raybestos police rotor, and Bendix Police pads installed. Time to spend time with the family now. Will do the drivers side tomorrow and then pray that I can get the system bled easily. Have 2 liters of ATE Typ200. Hopefully it goes smoothly and that will be enough to fully flush and fill.
L1gerZero said:
I truly do not know. I'm sure that the factory Motorcraft PP stuff is excellent. I'm generally pretty happy with Motorcraft. My primary reason for trying the Police stuff is that we've had several Panther chassis (crown vic, grand marquis, town car) cars in the family and the Crown Vic Police Interceptor brakes were amazing as far as fade resistance and ability to handle abuse over 30,000 plus miles. The others were horrible.
In the case of the SHO with PP, I think that you already have the same equipment as the Interceptor Sedan. I think that's the most important, is to run the PP or Interceptor parts.