What have you done to your Ecoboosted vehicle today?

Ran the 35 shot last night.  Need to make some adjustments.  I really need that upgraded HPFP.  The 35 really shocked the fuel system for a second, went from 2500 fuel pressure to a dip of 1100 then back up to 2500 the majority of 3rd gear.  Working with what I got in going to try starting meth earlier about 6.5 psi and hit nitrous later say around 4500 rpm.  See if I can reduce the pressure drop.  As horrible as 1100 was for that second or so...its still 300psi more than Livernois V11 pressure drop haha!  With 2 power adders!  Lol!
 
Not at all.  But now that u are doing multiple power adders, it is an early warning sign.  Injectors letting go is not fun lol.
 
SHOdded said:
Not at all.  But now that u are doing multiple power adders, it is an early warning sign.  Injectors letting go is not fun lol.

No not at all.  Good thing you mentioned to start looking for that.  I'll check tonight after I do another log.  Definitely don't want to push it if it's smelling of fuel.  On a side not I do have a Blackstone Lab container waiting for an oil sample to go in it. 

I'm hoping to not smell any fuel, afterward before Friday I'll change the oil and filter and send an oil sample out for testing, just to check on the egine in general. 

My plan is to hit the track Friday, Full weight again and do a couple passes without nitrous and then a couple passes with nitrous.
 
802SHO said:
SHOdded said:
Not at all.  But now that u are doing multiple power adders, it is an early warning sign.  Injectors letting go is not fun lol.

No not at all.  Good thing you mentioned to start looking for that.  I'll check tonight after I do another log.  Definitely don't want to push it if it's smelling of fuel.  On a side not I do have a Blackstone Lab container waiting for an oil sample to go in it. 

I'm hoping to not smell any fuel, afterward before Friday I'll change the oil and filter and send an oil sample out for testing, just to check on the egine in general. 

My plan is to hit the track Friday, Full weight again and do a couple passes without nitrous and then a couple passes with nitrous.

Let me know if you are definitely coming down. I’ll head over and film and make a couple passes in the edge. Ol’Edgey has some new tricks I want to try.
 
Got confirmation from Brad my shots are good to go on it. Filled up a 10lb bottle, got a couple more jets, pressure gauge and now looking for a bottle heater. Might go to a simple torch though.
 
Jordan said:
Got confirmation from Brad my shots are good to go on it. Filled up a 10lb bottle, got a couple more jets, pressure gauge and now looking for a bottle heater. Might go to a simple torch though.

Oh boy do I have stories of using blow torches to heat bottles. Last time was on the golf cart. Heat that bitch up until you see 900-1100psi and let her eat.
 
My fire jacket came in and I too got the go ahead from Brad.  He said the fuel pressure usually dips slightly when boost comes in hard, he said boost came in hard when it dipped and it was only brief.  He said he would be concerned if it stayed low.  Just ordered a pressure guage as well.
 
shoNoff said:
Jordan said:
Got confirmation from Brad my shots are good to go on it. Filled up a 10lb bottle, got a couple more jets, pressure gauge and now looking for a bottle heater. Might go to a simple torch though.

Oh boy do I have stories of using blow torches to heat bottles. Last time was on the golf cart. Heat that b*tch up until you see 900-1100psi and let her eat.

LOL torches........they can me used in a pinch ONLY!!!!!!  I too have done it.  However that is not the correct approach. 

If it is cold, use a hot water bath and invest in a bottle blanket.  Each time you use a torch on a bottle it degrades the bottle.  The uneven heating of the metal time and time again compromises the structural integrity.

Below is an article. 

https://www.dragzine.com/news/overheated-nitrous-bottle-explodes-in-the-trunk-of-a-mustang/

This paragraph should really stand out.....

"Nitrous bottles have specific temperature and internal pressure ratings, which are imposed to keep the bottle within a safe operating range. As the bottles heat up, their internal pressure rises (just as a tire would on a sunny day). It’s for this reason why you never want to leave your bottle heater on for too long a period of time, and certainly the reason why you never, ever want to use a torch to warm the bottle (even worse, this also weakens the structure of the bottle). But as you can imagine, on a 90-plus degree day in the sun, the temperature inside the car can reach well into the 100’s. With that ambient temperature inside and the sun beating down on the bottle through the glass, the recipe is there for disaster."

 
SM105K said:
shoNoff said:
Jordan said:
Got confirmation from Brad my shots are good to go on it. Filled up a 10lb bottle, got a couple more jets, pressure gauge and now looking for a bottle heater. Might go to a simple torch though.

Oh boy do I have stories of using blow torches to heat bottles. Last time was on the golf cart. Heat that b*tch up until you see 900-1100psi and let her eat.

LOL torches........they can me used in a pinch ONLY!!!!!!  I too have done it.  However that is not the correct approach. 

If it is cold, use a hot water bath and invest in a bottle blanket.  Each time you use a torch on a bottle it degrades the bottle.  The uneven heating of the metal time and time again compromises the structural integrity.

Below is an article. 

https://www.dragzine.com/news/overheated-nitrous-bottle-explodes-in-the-trunk-of-a-mustang/

This paragraph should really stand out.....

"Nitrous bottles have specific temperature and internal pressure ratings, which are imposed to keep the bottle within a safe operating range. As the bottles heat up, their internal pressure rises (just as a tire would on a sunny day). It’s for this reason why you never want to leave your bottle heater on for too long a period of time, and certainly the reason why you never, ever want to use a torch to warm the bottle (even worse, this also weakens the structure of the bottle). But as you can imagine, on a 90-plus degree day in the sun, the temperature inside the car can reach well into the 100’s. With that ambient temperature inside and the sun beating down on the bottle through the glass, the recipe is there for disaster."

I couldn’t agree more. It’s one thing to mess around on golf carts and mopeds. But on a car I care about. I’d only use a bottle blanket, and hot water bath to get correct bottle pressure.
 
A lil Car porn for yall. 3.5TT Ford GT Engine from work.
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Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
 
shoNoff said:
SM105K said:
shoNoff said:
Jordan said:
Got confirmation from Brad my shots are good to go on it. Filled up a 10lb bottle, got a couple more jets, pressure gauge and now looking for a bottle heater. Might go to a simple torch though.

Oh boy do I have stories of using blow torches to heat bottles. Last time was on the golf cart. Heat that b*tch up until you see 900-1100psi and let her eat.

LOL torches........they can me used in a pinch ONLY!!!!!!  I too have done it.  However that is not the correct approach. 

If it is cold, use a hot water bath and invest in a bottle blanket.  Each time you use a torch on a bottle it degrades the bottle.  The uneven heating of the metal time and time again compromises the structural integrity.

Below is an article. 

https://www.dragzine.com/news/overheated-nitrous-bottle-explodes-in-the-trunk-of-a-mustang/

This paragraph should really stand out.....

"Nitrous bottles have specific temperature and internal pressure ratings, which are imposed to keep the bottle within a safe operating range. As the bottles heat up, their internal pressure rises (just as a tire would on a sunny day). It’s for this reason why you never want to leave your bottle heater on for too long a period of time, and certainly the reason why you never, ever want to use a torch to warm the bottle (even worse, this also weakens the structure of the bottle). But as you can imagine, on a 90-plus degree day in the sun, the temperature inside the car can reach well into the 100’s. With that ambient temperature inside and the sun beating down on the bottle through the glass, the recipe is there for disaster."

I couldn’t agree more. It’s one thing to mess around on golf carts and mopeds. But on a car I care about. I’d only use a bottle blanket, and hot water bath to get correct bottle pressure.

The rep from Zex told me when I asked about a purge kit and bottle warmer that I didn't need them, with this safe shot system the bottle pressure can be minimal and be totally fine.  He said with bigger shots its important to purge the lines and keep the bottle warm to ensure bottle pressure is optimal, less so for my kit.  Although better pressure means a better shot so I will eventually get a bottle warmer.  I also would like to purge and direct the purge onto my IC or perhaps intake manifold.  I should check pressure, that's why I have that coming and for the time being a I think a heating pad will do the trick.  And turn it off when pressure is about 900.
 
SM105K said:
shoNoff said:
Jordan said:
Got confirmation from Brad my shots are good to go on it. Filled up a 10lb bottle, got a couple more jets, pressure gauge and now looking for a bottle heater. Might go to a simple torch though.

Oh boy do I have stories of using blow torches to heat bottles. Last time was on the golf cart. Heat that b*tch up until you see 900-1100psi and let her eat.


LOL torches........they can me used in a pinch ONLY!!!!!!  I too have done it.  However that is not the correct approach. 

If it is cold, use a hot water bath and invest in a bottle blanket.  Each time you use a torch on a bottle it degrades the bottle.  The uneven heating of the metal time and time again compromises the structural integrity.

Below is an article. 

https://www.dragzine.com/news/overheated-nitrous-bottle-explodes-in-the-trunk-of-a-mustang/

This paragraph should really stand out.....

"Nitrous bottles have specific temperature and internal pressure ratings, which are imposed to keep the bottle within a safe operating range. As the bottles heat up, their internal pressure rises (just as a tire would on a sunny day). It’s for this reason why you never want to leave your bottle heater on for too long a period of time, and certainly the reason why you never, ever want to use a torch to warm the bottle (even worse, this also weakens the structure of the bottle). But as you can imagine, on a 90-plus degree day in the sun, the temperature inside the car can reach well into the 100’s. With that ambient temperature inside and the sun beating down on the bottle through the glass, the recipe is there for disaster."


I wonder if that goes for aluminum and steel bottles. "Back in the day" I had both. I kept several bottles full. Being on the street I never used anything smaller than a 15 pound. Less chance of running out and less pressure variance.
 
I only used a fresh 20 lb bottle when financial gain/loss was on the line.  Zero chance of running out of nitrous, and pressure was stable for the whole pass. 
 
802SHO said:
shoNoff said:
SM105K said:
shoNoff said:
Jordan said:
Got confirmation from Brad my shots are good to go on it. Filled up a 10lb bottle, got a couple more jets, pressure gauge and now looking for a bottle heater. Might go to a simple torch though.

Oh boy do I have stories of using blow torches to heat bottles. Last time was on the golf cart. Heat that b*tch up until you see 900-1100psi and let her eat.

LOL torches........they can me used in a pinch ONLY!!!!!!  I too have done it.  However that is not the correct approach. 

If it is cold, use a hot water bath and invest in a bottle blanket.  Each time you use a torch on a bottle it degrades the bottle.  The uneven heating of the metal time and time again compromises the structural integrity.

Below is an article. 

https://www.dragzine.com/news/overheated-nitrous-bottle-explodes-in-the-trunk-of-a-mustang/

This paragraph should really stand out.....

"Nitrous bottles have specific temperature and internal pressure ratings, which are imposed to keep the bottle within a safe operating range. As the bottles heat up, their internal pressure rises (just as a tire would on a sunny day). It’s for this reason why you never want to leave your bottle heater on for too long a period of time, and certainly the reason why you never, ever want to use a torch to warm the bottle (even worse, this also weakens the structure of the bottle). But as you can imagine, on a 90-plus degree day in the sun, the temperature inside the car can reach well into the 100’s. With that ambient temperature inside and the sun beating down on the bottle through the glass, the recipe is there for disaster."

I couldn’t agree more. It’s one thing to mess around on golf carts and mopeds. But on a car I care about. I’d only use a bottle blanket, and hot water bath to get correct bottle pressure.

The rep from Zex told me when I asked about a purge kit and bottle warmer that I didn't need them, with this safe shot system the bottle pressure can be minimal and be totally fine.  He said with bigger shots its important to purge the lines and keep the bottle warm to ensure bottle pressure is optimal, less so for my kit.  Although better pressure means a better shot so I will eventually get a bottle warmer.  I also would like to purge and direct the purge onto my IC or perhaps intake manifold.  I should check pressure, that's why I have that coming and for the time being a I think a heating pad will do the trick.  And turn it off when pressure is about 900.

I 100% agree with what zex said there. Your shot is small enough the pressure shouldn’t vary your nitrous that much. Now when you are spraying 300 shot pressure is extremely important.
 
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