FearlessAZ
New member
SM105K said:
I don't think I will be able to do much until after the holidays. The wife always goes way overboard with Christmas and I need to learn my lesson and plan for it this year. Lol. But after that, I am down!
What have you done to your Ecoboosted vehicle today?
- Thread starter 4DRHTRD
- Start date
I don't think I will be able to do much until after the holidays. The wife always goes way overboard with Christmas and I need to learn my lesson and plan for it this year. Lol. But after that, I am down!
Black Dream
New member
Replaced my front pads and rotors today. Planned to do all 4 corners but something came up so the rears will have to wait until Thursday. I use R1Concept rotors and pads and have for 15 years. Great products that don't cost an arm and a leg, they use Centric blanks and cut their own rotors, that work very well and the difference in braking from what was on there to what is now is significant.
BUT when I did the driver's side there was only one of the spring clips present that hold the pads apart. The car was serviced at a Ford dealership in the Dallas area it's entire life, 2010 MKS Eco, and it's disappointing that they missed that when it was serviced last. Can anyone recommend somewhere other than a dealership to get one? I started a thread in the Parts Number sub-forum asking the same question...
BUT when I did the driver's side there was only one of the spring clips present that hold the pads apart. The car was serviced at a Ford dealership in the Dallas area it's entire life, 2010 MKS Eco, and it's disappointing that they missed that when it was serviced last. Can anyone recommend somewhere other than a dealership to get one? I started a thread in the Parts Number sub-forum asking the same question...
Car is back to full interior. Everything is where it should be. Still want to chase down a resolution for firewall turbo return line leak even with new gasket, I believe the radiator has a small leak also as well as an axle seal is leaking from the trans. Just been pushing these off and I really don't wanna do the work now that it is cold! Very very very small leaks, but can tell she is starting to show some age!
mrhighcaliber
New member
Lol. There is no failure mode there. At least not from a power handling perspective. These only fail from lack of maintenance. Spun bearings and galling of the gears from lack of lubrication.Gofspar said:
I don't see the failure mode here, the car works normally with the new PTU.
has anyone broken the output of the trans/input of the PTU to where it just slips?
High Heat dries up the lighter oil molecules in the lube, which causes more heat due to lack of lubrication (thermal runaway) which leads to the remaining gear oil turning to thick black paste which clogs up the vent tube in the ptu which cause pressure buildup in the ptu which forces the remaining, non-congealed fluid out past the shaft seals. Now the only left is a thick paste thats easily flung off of the gears, sticking only to the case. After this chain of events, the bearings run dry and begin to fail, next are the gears. Tolerances widen or things begin to sieze. Bearing and gear noise are usually the first signs of mechanical failure.
But the PTU internals are stout. The weakest part of our powertrain is the RDU Atc coupler. (The electronic coupler in the rear differential). At least in terms of tq capacity and power handling.
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mrhighcaliber said:Lol. There is no failure mode there. At least not from a power handling perspective. These only fail from lack of maintenance. Spun bearings and galling of the gears from lack of lubrication.Gofspar said:
I don't see the failure mode here, the car works normally with the new PTU.
has anyone broken the output of the trans/input of the PTU to where it just slips?
High Heat dries up the lighter oil molecules in the lube, which causes more heat due to lack of lubrication (thermal runaway) which leads to the remaining gear oil turning to thick black paste which clogs up the vent tube in the ptu which cause pressure buildup in the ptu which forces the remaining, non-congealed fluid out past the shaft seals. Now the only left is a thick paste thats easily flung off of the gears, sticking only to the case. After this chain of events, the bearings run dry and begin to fail, next are the gears. Tolerances widen or things begin to sieze. Bearing and gear noise are usually the first signs of mechanical failure.
But the PTU internals are stout. The weakest part of our powertrain is the RDU Atc coupler. (The electronic coupler in the rear differential). At least in terms of tq capacity and power handling.
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When mine went bye bye, it was instant and from a dig.
first thing I did when I got the car was 2 flushes with amsoil 75w-140.
Thanks for the insight on PTU failures.
As for protecting the PTU from heat, any recommendation on what I should wrap my DP's with to try to keep it isolated?
What that cost you?StealBlueSHO said:Professionally detailed, single stage color correction, high speed buff detailed, etc...
Not too shabby...
TLC Automotive Detailing in Sterling, VA. Dave is the owner of the shop, just good dude.
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I ordered a new set of 3D Maxpider Kagu Floor Liners part number and link
For reference below.
The last set of Aries Liners served me quite well since purchasing them back in 2016 which were later replaced by the newer updated version 3D Maxpider Liners. Z
[L1FR01801509]
https://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Floor-Mats-Liners/3D-Maxpider-Kagu-Floor-Liners/_Item/_556100636
For reference below.
The last set of Aries Liners served me quite well since purchasing them back in 2016 which were later replaced by the newer updated version 3D Maxpider Liners. Z
[L1FR01801509]
https://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Floor-Mats-Liners/3D-Maxpider-Kagu-Floor-Liners/_Item/_556100636
You will love the Maxpiders.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7asyxPUFt7I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7asyxPUFt7I
Just quick video with some thanks that I put together!
https://youtu.be/_jeOgwp-aLs
https://youtu.be/_jeOgwp-aLs
Fixed the radiator leak. Turned out to just be a loose clamp and got an oil return line on the way as I think mine is leaking off the rear turbo and not the gasket I've replaced twice. After second replacement the oil leak got significantly worse RIGHT after the fix and only other part I touched was the line itself so I think it's leaking from the flex or maybe from the flange. Hard to tell as the leak goes onto the axle and it flings it everywhere. All I know is that it the only piece I've touched so car has that part out right now and waiting on replacement to arrive Tuesday.
So yesterday tore the car apart, intake and charge pipes removed, radiator drain. Basically just need to take off coolant hoses and intake manifold. Replace injector and intake manifold gaskets and reassemble then oil change just in case from fuel dilution. Better safe than sorry on that.