2010 SHO. Detonation... maybe

R

RagingPenguin

New member
Hi there folks. Been creeping around here for a few days looking for info on the 3.5TT. Had the car about two weeks now. First day we took it home I noticed it was pinging like crazy when I got on it. Drove it for a few days and it only happened at high RPM. Emptied the tank and ran 91 with 10% ethanol in it and detonation decreased further.
Noting that these things eat plugs I changed them out with SP534. Detonation like sound only occurs at WOT just as car shifts and grabs next year. It's also intermittent now also. Can't replicate it every time but catch it faintly now and again. Also checked spark knock sensor wiring for chaffing. In one piece. Loaded a bit of RTV as preventive measure.

Car has airaid CAI and what I assume to be factory exhaust with different tips. I am unsure if it's stock but haven't noted any brand labels on it. It is very quiet but is very deep sounding.

Car is running great and even better with fresh plugs. Just slightly concerned with that high rpm rattle. Some people have mentioned it could be fuel system.
Thanks for your time
RP
 
Maybe you could try Torque Pro to monitor your KR to get an objective reading on detonation and any timing pulled by the ECM...

Could be fuel, but unlikely. Consider trying plugs gapped .032 or .033
 
x2 n BiGMaC's suggestions.  How many miles? 

Time to get the car up on ramps or a lift, I think.  If there IS something wrong with the fuel system, the usual culprit has been leaky injectors.  Doesn't seem like it in this case, could be leaning out at WOT, so avoid WOT till further notice.  More likely it is carbon buildup on the valves.  Check:

The CAC for oil
The intake piping for oil
Turbos for carbon buildup & oil
Breaks/tears in turbo piping

You may have an aftermarket catback installed, something like a Borla or a Corsa, but the mufflers &/or tips would be stamped accordingly, IME.  Aftermarket downpipes can also make the tone deeper.

As far as tuned/stock goes, you have to get the strategy code (using a tuning device) and load a stock file to start with a clean slate.  Unless you can track down the previous owner and find out from them.  Or have the latest PCM calibration installed by dealership (may not be the wisest decision on multiple levels).
 
Check CAC, found about 1/4 in of fluid.
Checked intake and MAF. Very light layer. Couldn't hardly wet my finger.
Checked pipe on other side of engine, some oil there, dark. Not tons but is there.
Car has 80000km/50000mile
Was purchased from dealer like this so the CAI/exhaust shouldn't be a problem. Any possibility of a pcm reflash helping?
 
RagingPenguin said:
Also looking into Bluetooth module also. That's pretty cool. Never seen that before.
Click to expand...
OBDII MX is the preferred one for best performance. I found decent windshield mount at Staples for $20.
 
RagingPenguin said:
Check CAC, found about 1/4 in of fluid.
Checked intake and MAF. Very light layer. Couldn't hardly wet my finger.
Checked pipe on other side of engine, some oil there, dark. Not tons but is there.
Car has 80000km/50000mile
Was purchased from dealer like this so the CAI/exhaust shouldn't be a problem. Any possibility of a pcm reflash helping?
Click to expand...
No MAF, only MAP on these cars.  Looks like the SHO is on fairly solid ground.  I would get the latest PCM calibration flashed in, just so you have a known good starting point.  Then monitor performance.  If still having issues, I'd step up to a BG DI Induction Service & subsequent shortened-interval Oil/Filter Change.  A fuel system dryer such as from BG may also help.
 
MAP, sorry. Know enough to be dangerous lol.
Plugs were fairly covered in soot, but not wet with oil. Will post pic here.
Noise occurs just as car shifts but sounds just like detonation. I'm going with looks like a duck, quacks like a duck.. must be a duck theory but is there any other components that could cause this? If I go to M and shift myself and do it earlier than the car does it, doesn't make any noise. Only other thing I can think of is the traction control.
Noise is maybe a split second and only at 6500+ rpm
 
Plugs.

a5afef15211049acb980e6b4a052c69a.jpg
 
Except for the tiniest bit of oil near the base, the plugs look fine.  6500 rpm will trigger the automatic kickdown by the PCM.  Sound/noise could be related to that, but what exactly, I am not sure.
 
Well within expected range.  Gap wear is also ok, have seen higher.  What gap did you set the new plugs to?
spark_plugs_diagnosis.jpg
 
Walks like a duck, quacks like a duck theory is a no go. Had the car in M, was going 2-3 under 3/4 throttle and the driveline made a crap ton of noise. Just like my high rpm noise. Now it happens at 4000rpm. Thinking either it blew something or it needs to be reflashed. To my understanding the last two owners would not have driven this car very hard. Glad I know what it is now though!
Hoping to have it to ford tomorrow.
 
Sounds like oil induced detonation to me...as the load on the engine is highest right at up shift (especially 3,4,5...due to converter lock up) as the boost is highest there as well. The knock can only pull 7.5 degrees of timing so if the oil ingestion requires the engine to pull 10 degrees but the computer can only pull 7.5 the engine will start pinging.

Your .25" of oil in your innercooler comes from two places... Pcv front clean side vent / suction under boost...and the turbo seals in each turbo.

On my car, I've found that I was able to cut my knock (7.5 to 4.0) by removing the pcv front clean side vent. To run a trial, I just plumbed the port next to the oil fill cap with a 5/8" hose to a small water bottle that I wedged behind the coolant fill/reservior.  Then capped the front turbo intake tube with a 1/2 heater hose cap that I got from advance auto. This does two things: one stops the ingestion back to the intake to see if blow by is responsible for your oil ingestion and secondly, use of the water bottle, you can see if the engine blow by is pumping oil....ie excessive blow by. I ran my car like that for two weeks. It reduced my knock but I still had oil in my innercooler so part of my oil ingestion problems are due to turbo compressor seal leaks.

I'm now working on an rx catch can setup...not the kit they sell though...my own rendition of plumbing and check valves using there can.

Just my experiences.
 
I'll take a look into that when I get my Bluetooth obd2 reader. I'll certainly use the suggestion!

Should also mention that the 2-3 shift the car completely failed to go into gear.
 
Dealer is under impression that car is fine. They didn't even look at the transmission. Assuming they did their job oil in intercooler should have been cleaned up.
If not I will remove oil from intercooler to remove that possibility and see if transmission makes any more noise.
 
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