2010 Taurus SHO TT Replacement in Garage

SierraTBD

New member
I'm very confident I can replace both turbos in my garage but just wanted some encouragement (hopefully). I know the rear sub-frame will need to be lowered slightly if I can't find patience. What else should I expect? Thank you and much appreciated!
 
I cant comment on the rear turbo but I did the front one. simple hand tools. I pulled bumper, fans, rad/intercooler(comes out as one) then there was all kinds of room -> way easier than it sounds lol. But you may only need to pull fans. Don't over bend the flex joint on the downpipes cuz they will break.

New turbo did not have mounting brackets, updated design?. seems like alot of stress on a sheet metal manifold?
 
geophb said:
I cant comment on the rear turbo but I did the front one. simple hand tools. I pulled bumper, fans, rad/intercooler(comes out as one) then there was all kinds of room -> way easier than it sounds lol. But you may only need to pull fans. Don't over bend the flex joint on the downpipes cuz they will break.

New turbo did not have mounting brackets, updated design?. seems like alot of stress on a sheet metal manifold?

Yes, they updated the design and the newer turbos don't have mouting brackets... the cast iron manifolds will hold them fine.
 
StealBlueSho said:
geophb said:
I cant comment on the rear turbo but I did the front one. simple hand tools. I pulled bumper, fans, rad/intercooler(comes out as one) then there was all kinds of room -> way easier than it sounds lol. But you may only need to pull fans. Don't over bend the flex joint on the downpipes cuz they will break.

New turbo did not have mounting brackets, updated design?. seems like alot of stress on a sheet metal manifold?

Yes, they updated the design and the newer turbos don't have mouting brackets... the cast iron manifolds will hold them fine.

I honestly don't think there cast, which is why i was wondering. It looked like sheetmetal to me
 
FWIW. . . . .
83d6a445132f34d59e20491808d65a67.jpg
 
When I replaced my ptu it also called to lower the sub frame for removal. 

I just removed the lower front engine
Mount(dog bone ) and used a ratchet strap to pull the engine forward towards the radiator.
de99ca7dd758419bb3b3409ab44b6776.jpg

This is the bracket, you can see the bolt compared to where it’s supposed to mount.
8f975d00bba3601f709487447620a190.jpg
 
SHOdded said:
Throwdown with Mike K.  Now playing.

Negative...they feel like cast iron to me so I just assumed they were along with the rough exterior and rusting... but I defer to Mikes post.. Stainless Steel/Steel it is... lol
 
Sooo, are there two different exhaust manifold designs? I seem to recall some reports of the inner wall on the design that Mike has pictured may be prone to degrading/flaking and taking the turbo's out. If that's true it might be worth taking a good look any time you're in that area of the engine.
 
First of all, thank you to everyone who replied :notworthy:  I am new to the Ecoboost world coming from the diesel community. Belonging to DieselPlace.com I certainly appreciate the wisdom that exists in members of forums like this one.

Sounds like the rear does not need much more clearance to be removed.
 
bpd1151 said:
You know what they say when one ASSumes there BJ.

LOL. ****Snickers.

Love you dumpling.


Ha! Just to throw some oil in the mix (can’t make dumplings without it) this article... which is fantastic also had LME calling out the manifolds as cast-iron....

https://www.fordnxt.com/tech-stories/engine/ecoboost-build-600-plus-horsepower-from-a-livernois-built-3-5-v6/

Wonder if that is your motor in the article?



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SierraTBD said:
First of all, thank you to everyone who replied :notworthy:  I am new to the Ecoboost world coming from the diesel community. Belonging to DieselPlace.com I certainly appreciate the wisdom that exists in members of forums like this one.

Sounds like the rear does not need much more clearance to be removed.

The front is reported as easy. The rear is a PIA from those that have done it from a creeper...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
StealBlueSho said:
Ha! Just to throw some oil in the mix (can’t make dumplings without it) this article... which is fantastic also had LME calling out the manifolds as cast-iron....

https://www.fordnxt.com/tech-stories/engine/ecoboost-build-600-plus-horsepower-from-a-livernois-built-3-5-v6/

Wonder if that is your motor in the article?
This would be correct in an F150 application.  Their manifolds are different from the transverse applications.
https://www.brewcityboost.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/crp-manifolds-2011-2012.pdf
 
StealBlueSho said:
SierraTBD said:
First of all, thank you to everyone who replied :notworthy:  I am new to the Ecoboost world coming from the diesel community. Belonging to DieselPlace.com I certainly appreciate the wisdom that exists in members of forums like this one.

Sounds like the rear does not need much more clearance to be removed.

The front is reported as easy. The rear is a PIA from those that have done it from a creeper...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A PIA for sure but definitely still doable right?
 
So we replaced both Front and Rear With ATPs (from a lift Tho)
and prior to doing the New Engine Swap........
and it was not that Tough, BUT we do not remember what all
has to come out (not much tho) SOO Doing it from the floor, YEA
it can be done, It is going to be a PITA... :angry1:
 
irondoor19 said:
So we replaced both Front and Rear With ATPs (from a lift Tho)
and prior to doing the New Engine Swap........
and it was not that Tough, BUT we do not remember what all
has to come out (not much tho) SOO Doing it from the floor, YEA
it can be done, It is going to be a PITA... :angry1:

Well I started this tonight..

 
Can someone tell me how to disconnect the oil feed lines from the block? Definitely looks like a simple clip lock but wanted to double check. Thank you!
 
Yikes! Live in rust belt?
Hows loose is your rear turbo wastegate flapper without the arm connected if you dont mind? Mine is rattling, just tryin to compare.
 
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