CHECK ENGINE LIGHT- P0130

These sensors will be ones closest to the engine block/exhaust manifolds.  So follow the path from the engine on down, and the first one you get to will be sensor 1.
 
Besides just being dirty, any reason both would just throw codes like that at the same time for both bank 1 and bank 2 sensor 1?  That's two different sides, both upstream, correct?  Could the PCM need a calibration like what the TSB recommends for the 2010 F150?
 
Very possible.  Problem could easily be "upstream" in the plugs, the fuel mix, air flow, etc.  Asymptomatic, but have you logged data yet to check timing & fuel performance?

Clean the MAP sensors, they can get dirty especially if you have an "oiled" air filter or an underperforming PCV system.

If a calibration update does not fix it, the PCM and/or its' connections may be suspect.

EDIT:  Hyundai also issued a TSB for the same issue with some of its' vehicles:
http://www.myhyundaiforums.com/09-FL-012(2).pdf

EDIT:  Change to a different gas station/grade on last fillup?

EDIT:  Sometimes it can be the grounds, at least that's what Nissan fixes here
http://www.alldatadiy.com/techtips/ALLDATA/20091031.html
 
SHOdded said:
Very possible.  Problem could easily be "upstream" in the plugs, the fuel mix, air flow, etc.  Asymptomatic, but have you logged data yet to check timing & fuel performance?

Clean the MAP sensors, they can get dirty especially if you have an "oiled" air filter or an underperforming PCV system.

If a calibration update does not fix it, the PCM and/or its' connections may be suspect.

EDIT:  Hyundai also issued a TSB for the same issue with some of its' vehicles:
http://www.myhyundaiforums.com/09-FL-012(2).pdf

EDIT:  Change to a different gas station/grade on last fillup?

EDIT:  Sometimes it can be the grounds, at least that's what Nissan fixes here
http://www.alldatadiy.com/techtips/ALLDATA/20091031.html
Click to expand...

Have not logged data.  I'm guessing you'd need an advanced reading tool to do that?  I've just got your basic code reader.

Probably a stupid question, but is the MAP sensor basically the same thing as the MAF sensor right on the intake with the plug?  Same spot or different sensors?

I'm using a stock motorcraft air filter.  No mods on the car at all - all oem.  I've used different gas stations, so i'm sure gas quality isn't the issue.  All have been mobils, exxons, etc and still throwing the codes.
 
Datalogging:
Easiest with Torque Pro + OBD Bluetooth or Wifi Code Reader + Android device (phone/tablet).  Presuming you already have a phone/tablet, the cost for the rest should be under $50.  For example, $5 for Torque Pro from Google Play, + $30 or so for the VGate OBD Bluetooth device.  Check out OBD device reviews on Amazon & decide.  Probably don't need the high-end OBDLink MX right now (about $100 device).

MAP & MAF serve basically the same function but in different ways.  The EBs are MAP-based vehicles.  There are 2 MAPs, one is on top of the intake manifold (2bar), and the other is in the air intake tubing (3 bar).

From BiGMaC's Hotpipes Install HOWTO:
9-HotpipesStockFullFrontlabelled_zps01fef6d2.jpg
 
About to clean the sensors with some MAF cleaner and just wanted to make sure of something before i did it.  The TIP sensor in the above picture, that's the 3 bar MAP, right?
 
Thats correct, and the one on top of the manifold is a 2 bar map sensor and usually its swapped for a 3 bar sensor if your adding a 3-bar tune in the near future.  Z
 
I'm not sure if you ever checked your knock sensor wires for any fraying/cutting due to the wires rubbing against the engine block.  Z
 
I haven't gotten under the car to check the wiring yet.  Seems a little hard to believe that both wires for two different pre-cat o2 sensors would fry at the same time, but I guess anything's possible.  Not finding any vacuum leaks.  I'm hoping a PCM calibration will fix this issue if cleaning the maps don't. 

I'll be at ford monday morning to see what they can do for me.  I'll be there anyway for a bad front wheel bearing that hopefully should be covered under the powertrain warranty that has a couple thousand miles left.  I'll talk to them about the PCM flash while I'm there.

 
pmezo33 said:
I haven't gotten under the car to check the wiring yet.  Seems a little hard to believe that both wires for two different pre-cat o2 sensors would fry at the same time, but I guess anything's possible.  Not finding any vacuum leaks.  I'm hoping a PCM calibration will fix this issue if cleaning the maps don't. 

I'll be at ford monday morning to see what they can do for me.  I'll be there anyway for a bad front wheel bearing that hopefully should be covered under the powertrain warranty that has a couple thousand miles left.  I'll talk to them about the PCM flash while I'm there.
Click to expand...

So what ever happened to your mks? I recently put bg 44k in my tank and was doing some pretty hard pulls then the CEL came on, the car started to have a sight weird smell and i got the same 2 codes. I feel like pulling hard released alot of built up carbon and maybe ruined my sensors or cats? Also i just put new plugs in gapped at 0.030 because i will tune within the next few weeks. With me being stock could the smaller gap cause the code?
 
A smaller gap will make the car run a bit richer, 0.035 is ideal for the 2010 stock, but still OK. Nowadays, they put in 0.030 at the factory, maybe tuned to accommodate.

The 44K wont affect the carbon issue because that is on the back of the intake valves where 44K doesn't reach.  It could possibly have dissolved more than usual impurities in the fuel system, if they were there to begin with.  Shouldn't cause issues with the sensors/cats (permanent).  Did you reset the codes and see if they come back?
 
salsathe4th said:
So what ever happened to your mks? I recently put bg 44k in my tank and was doing some pretty hard pulls then the CEL came on, the car started to have a sight weird smell and i got the same 2 codes. I feel like pulling hard released alot of built up carbon and maybe ruined my sensors or cats? Also i just put new plugs in gapped at 0.030 because i will tune within the next few weeks. With me being stock could the smaller gap cause the code?
Click to expand...

Changed the two o2 sensors with motorcrafts.  Has been good ever since.  It was definitely the sensors with me.  I didn't have any weird smells or anything though.  Just the CEL.  Everything else was normal.
 
Sal IMO would not worry about the codes for now as long as NO MIL was set off....just reset the codes and see IF and HOW Fast they return. How many miles on your MKS?  Z
 
ZSHO said:
Sal IMO would not worry about the codes for now.....just reset the codes and see IF and HOW Fast they return. How many miles on your MKS?  Z
Click to expand...

just over 96,000 I just reset them during lunch. Drove it around for an hour with nothing. Will see what happens on the way home.
 
salsathe4th said:
ZSHO said:
Sal IMO would not worry about the codes for now.....just reset the codes and see IF and HOW Fast they return. How many miles on your MKS?  Z
Click to expand...

just over 96,000 I just reset them during lunch. Drove it around for an hour with nothing. Will see what happens on the way home.
Click to expand...
It could be your o2 sensors  or your (COP) needs to be changed out especially if original and depending on the current mileage and hopefully not your cat converter depending how quick the codes return or hopefully  NOT,here's a video on the PO420-430.  Z      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLyytQD7njw  BTW just monitor it for any such codes on a daily basis.  Z
 
I'm no mechanic but I know enough to be dangerous and I we t to change b1s1 02 and it looks like the sway bar needs to be disconnected and rotated up to change it.

I took the splash shield off and then the right front wheel. 

What's the procedure for doing the b1s1 02?
 
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