Disappointing Power

[POPSTAGE2]

Ok JimiJak, had some time to take pics.
First pic is showing the oil that is always there everytime I take the RX breather off...anyone else have this issue?



Here's the install with engine cover on. Made my own brackets to do this. It's tite but does fit without touching anything. Scratches on can is from removeing, installing cover.



Clean side install from breather cap to air box thanks to JimiJAK!



Cose up of can.





Pic of PCV valve connection which goes to center nipple on the can. And Manifold vacuum connection which goes to "AN" fitting on the can.



And back intake connection which tee's into front intake where the original nipple was necked down and used. That going into other side "AN" fitting on can. Not shown (forgot to take photo) is the capped off front valve cover nipple that went to the front intake.

 

[JimiJak]

Also, with the exception of not being able to see your anterior air intake vac barb (which would be pretty hard to mess up), it looks like everything's in the right spot...
Thank you for the pics. I'm going to say we can probably cross OCC Install off the list of possible contributors to your lack of power.

Any more info regarding behavior? have you noticed a pattern yet? Is it always underpowered, or have there been times where it seems to wake up? How does it sound? Idle? WOT? etc...

 

[crash712us]

I suggest hooking up a vacuum gauge. This can say lot about your poor performance. These engines idle with 20-22 inches a of vacuum. If yours shows less it may guide you on where to look.


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[POPSTAGE2]

Thanks for the responses!
I will look at that o-ring today and also put a vacuum gauge on it.
No changes in power or in anything. It has good low rpm power, but at about anything more than 2/3 throttle or above 4,000 rpm it doesn't pick up any more power... it just lays flat like it loses boost. No misses, no odd sounds, actually it's very quiet when just cruising.

 

[Larrylu]

Your symptom description sounds too similar to my experience to not mention.  My symptoms were acceleration going flat at the top of the gear. There was carryover into the next gear.  Before going into the dealership, I also noticed a sound coinciding with the performance flattening that sounded like a belt squeal.  The dealership duplicated the symptoms and claimed that the car thew a code for them. They explained that (their words) I had a vacuum leak at the high pressure fuel pump sensor, which caused an over boost condition. I'm thinking that the car pulled timing to protect itself. They told me that Ford did not use a clamp on the site of my leak. What they did was to trim the hose and add a clamp. Problem has not reoccurred and the car pulls strong to the top of gear and seems to leap as it hits the next gear. In normal driving I was unaware of the slowly developing issue. This may not be related to your problem but I could not help but see a similarity in your description of symptoms. Good luck finding your problem!


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

 

[BiGMaC]

Your symptom description sounds too similar to my experience to not mention.  My symptoms were acceleration going flat at the top of the gear. There was carryover into the next gear.  Before going into the dealership, I also noticed a sound coinciding with the performance flattening that sounded like a belt squeal.  The dealership duplicated the symptoms and claimed that the car thew a code for them. They explained that (their words) I had a vacuum leak at the high pressure fuel pump sensor, which caused an over boost condition. I'm thinking that the car pulled timing to protect itself. They told me that Ford did not use a clamp on the site of my leak. What they did was to trim the hose and add a clamp. Problem has not reoccurred and the car pulls strong to the top of gear and seems to leap as it hits the next gear. In normal driving I was unaware of the slowly developing issue. This may not be related to your problem but I could not help but see a similarity in your description of symptoms. Good luck finding your problem!


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

Larry… got a pic of that connection?  TIA

 

[Larrylu]

[
[/quote]

Larry… got a pic of that connection?  TIA
[/quote]

Well Tom you caught me being lazy. My description is strictly second hand as related to me by the service writer.  With the stuff I've been doing, I've had the engine cover off and I've had the MAP sensor on and off more times than I care to count, but I have not laid eyes on the site of the dealer installed non OE clamp. Though I've been curious, I have been to lazy to really search. I know where the fuel pump is under the rubber sound deadener.  I'll give a quick overview again this afternoon. The results of the dealer repair were rather dramatic.


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

 

[JimiJak]

Related to the O-Ring post from above:
IMPORTANT!
IF YOU ATTEMPT TO REPLACE THE ORING, DO NOT PULL THE THREADED BASE OUT OF THE CSS as I was originally instructed. :nono:
PUSH THE GROMET OUT OF THE BASE FROM THE TOP.


or if you have the right pics  / tools to get the oring over the base from above without having to remove the grommet, that's probably best.

*I've edited my above response to insure nobody pulls on the threaded base. ...I won't go into what happens when you do...just don't do it.  icard2:

EDIT: As an update, Tracy has been stellar (as usual) in his customer service, and assuring everything gets taken care of on my end. :thumbsup:

 

[Larrylu]

Your symptom description sounds too similar to my experience to not mention.  My symptoms were acceleration going flat at the top of the gear. There was carryover into the next gear.  Before going into the dealership, I also noticed a sound coinciding with the performance flattening that sounded like a belt squeal.  The dealership duplicated the symptoms and claimed that the car thew a code for them. They explained that (their words) I had a vacuum leak at the high pressure fuel pump sensor, which caused an over boost condition. I'm thinking that the car pulled timing to protect itself. They told me that Ford did not use a clamp on the site of my leak. What they did was to trim the hose and add a clamp. Problem has not reoccurred and the car pulls strong to the top of gear and seems to leap as it hits the next gear. In normal driving I was unaware of the slowly developing issue. This may not be related to your problem but I could not help but see a similarity in your description of symptoms. Good luck finding your problem!


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

I've been poking around looking for tracks the tech might have left behind as to which clamp he added and I'm just not certain. There is one clamp that is newer looking and a different color metal and so I took a picture of it for what ever it's worth. Sorry I can't be more definite than that!

2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

 

[JimiJak]

In typical Larrylu fashion, you're on it!
We appreciate that!!

 

[POPSTAGE2]

Some more good info...thanks guys.
I will be out of the country starting tomorrow for a week and a half so won't be reporting back.
But I will stay on it when I get back and let everyone know what I find.

Thought I would have time to look at that o-ring and check vacuum but got busy here at work...still trying.

 

[BiGMaC]

Your symptom description sounds too similar to my experience to not mention.  My symptoms were acceleration going flat at the top of the gear. There was carryover into the next gear.  Before going into the dealership, I also noticed a sound coinciding with the performance flattening that sounded like a belt squeal.  The dealership duplicated the symptoms and claimed that the car thew a code for them. They explained that (their words) I had a vacuum leak at the high pressure fuel pump sensor, which caused an over boost condition. I'm thinking that the car pulled timing to protect itself. They told me that Ford did not use a clamp on the site of my leak. What they did was to trim the hose and add a clamp. Problem has not reoccurred and the car pulls strong to the top of gear and seems to leap as it hits the next gear. In normal driving I was unaware of the slowly developing issue. This may not be related to your problem but I could not help but see a similarity in your description of symptoms. Good luck finding your problem!


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

I've been poking around looking for tracks the tech might have left behind as to which clamp he added and I'm just not certain. There is one clamp that is newer looking and a different color metal and so I took a picture of it for what ever it's worth. Sorry I can't be more definite than that!

2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

Perfect Larry!  Thanks!

 

[mjhpadi]

Speaking of clamps, watching Motorweek and Goss' Garage he talked specifically about clamps and when replacing them he recommends using OEM clamps but not to use the screw type clamp for a variety of reasons...just thought I'd throw that in since we are talking clamps.

 

[JimiJak]

Any update?

 

[SHOdded]

Link to Pat Goss' statement on which clamps to use and why:

http://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/engine_cooling_basics/

 

[FoMoCoSHO]

That is good to know...

 

[IHeartGroceries]

The OE tension type clamps make me want to castrate myself.
The worm clamps I've never liked, for various reasons.
But, t-bolt clamps...
There's simply no substitute.

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[kbeck59]

The OE tension type clamps make me want to castrate myself.
The worm clamps I've never liked, for various reasons.
But, t-bolt clamps...
There's simply no substitute.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

100% in agreement ...

 

[BiGMaC]

The OE tension type clamps make me want to castrate myself.
The worm clamps I've never liked, for various reasons.
But, t-bolt clamps...
There's simply no substitute.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

100% in agreement ...

X3!

 

[Needmoreboost]

I would not use t-bolts on plastic tubing unless you want cracks and boost leaks.