ecoboost_xsport Consolidated Build/Maintenance Thread

[Ecoboost_xsport]

BBK 70mm Throttle Body Improvement

Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10580.msg159029.html#msg159029

So Lee at Ortiz Performance hooked me up on a VERY quickly shipped BBK 70mm throttle body (yes, it IS from 1 2005-2010 V6 Mustang).  Been thinking bout this mod but was never 100% sure it fit until I came here.  Anyway,  got it and test fit it to the IM I have sitting on the bench.

Although it is an awesome piece, there were two small details my OCD had issues with.  1) I'll be porting the IM just that small bit to get it to match the TB, but have some concerns about how close it comes to the ring-style gasket groove if I do that and 2) the bolt holes where a bit larger than the hardware and just fit very sloppy.  If you ever wanted it dead-nuts centered, you'd kinda have to eyeball it and tighten it down.  Well, I figured I'd address issue #2.

I had some 5/16" OD 304 stainless tubing laying around and decided to see if there was any sort of "dowel" setup I could do. Lucky for me, the holes in the TB are EXACTLY 5/16".  The OD of the tubing was soooooo snug (insert joke here).  And the ID for the hardware sooooo perfect.  So only problem was...the recessed holes in the IM weren't 5/16".  Well, tubing was easy, measured what I needed and cut a few pieces on the lathe (you only need 2 to center).  Unfortunately, the IM doesn't lend itself to be easily mounted on a table for a mill, so I had to do this one by hand...just took a 5/16" drill bit and sunk it in about 1/4"-3/8" deep.

Slapped the dowels in place, and fit is perfection.  No movement whatsoever, centered exactly to the opening of the IM (which I will now port to match) and all this with some extra tubing laying around and a quick turn of the lathe and some careful drilling.  Viola!

BBK 70mm vs stock.  Stock is 65mm, for those who were wondering.

https://youtu.be/Lc5ka4Ti9Y0

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Custom Exhaust Completed

Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10584.msg159042.html#msg159042

I pretty much went straight pipe all the way back.  No cats, no mufflers, no resonators, only an x-pipe.  Results are interesting and I'll be running it through its paces to see how it does, power-wise.  I am finally able to get away from the last bit of LMS parts I had on this car (full turboback system), or should I say re-branded Corsa system, LOL.

A guy named Alex Gutierrez who has a shop named Big Head Motorsports.  Super talented welder.  Only online presence he has is IG, check him out at Big Head Cars.  He does a lot of high end drag race stuff.  And his shop is 3 minutes from my house...that was sweet!  I'm going to tag him to do a lot of my future work, i.e., turbo manifolds, IC end tanks (since no one makes any IC for my platform), and maybe something trick with the intake system.

It's 3" all the way to a set of 3" bellows, then transitions to 2.5".  There's an x-pipe right after the bellows and then out to the back and ends up with a 4" tip. Used 321 stainless on the test pipes as it retains heat better than 304 stainless, thus making the need for ceramic coating unnecessary. The system is 304SS for everything past the bellows.

But make no mistake, this thing is pretty loud.  However, drone is non-existent at cruising speeds,  it isn't raspy at all and  has a good bass and tone to it.  It's just LOUD when you step on it, lol.  Which I don't mind so much.

Anyway, the quality of workmanship is out of this world.  It's built for performance and maintenance will be easy with all the v-band clamps used instead of slip-fits and flange joints.

https://youtu.be/ZD0wzXDkUOQ

Some sound comparison videos:

Corsa exhaust note, cold start idle:
https://youtu.be/PMzTLH0Mp60

Corsa exhaust note, driving:
https://youtu.be/fpIfed9kUlU

BHC exhaust note, cold start idle:
https://youtu.be/mpvaCy05IAM

BHC exhaust note, driving:
https://youtu.be/b6TYHorveQc

I used a GoPro Hero6 Black utilizing the on-board microphone and mounted to the vehicle here:

For the telemetry, I used the Torque Pro app and used a screen recording app on a small tablet.  Editing of the videos was done only to get sound from the GoPro to sync with the video of the tablet.

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Bilstein B6 Shocks And Struts Installation

So, at the time of this write-up, the highest performance shocks/struts available for the Explorer platform are the Bilstein B6 model line.  It is a step up from the Bilstein B4, which is their OEM replacement line.

I finally got them installed after a nearly 6 month wait for one last front strut.  Seems there was a shortage nationwide as deliveries from Germany had been delayed, likely due to the early COVID restrictions.  I had ordered them through Summit mid-December of 2019 and got the last strut (PN: 22-266620) beginning of June 2020, but seems that everyone was out at the time.

• Bilstein B6 22-266637 Front, driver's side
• Bilstein B6 22-266620 Front, passenger's side
• Bilstein B6 24-266664 Rear, both sides

Anyway, it's a pretty straight forward installation so didn't get too many photos.  I started with the rears.

Removed top bolt of rear strut assembly.  Just have to pop of the plastic pieces on the top of the rear wheel "hump" of the interior.  And this will be exposed:

Used these tools to remove it:

Then remove the bottom bolt from the knuckle:

Purchased all new rubber pieces from Ford so that everything going in would be brand new:

Used the Bilstein bump stops that came with the shocks:

Installation is just reverse of removal. Finished install:

Fronts were pretty simple.  I have a spring compressor that that helps.  I purchased brand new hats from Ford for the fronts as well as the rubber spring seat.  Just wanted everything to go in new.

Finished install:

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Weight Reduction: Aftermarket Wheels v2.0

There was always a small bug in me that had issues with my TE-37s. Not bad, but it was nagging...enough that I finally decided to act on it.  Keep in mind, they looked GREAT and where lightweight! What more could you want?  So, fast forward about 2 years and I decided to act on it.

I made a change that I'm sure most will find perplexing.  I wanted NEW wheels!  This is completely irrelevant to the performance, but I was always unhappy about how it "looked"...I think the current vernacular is it's "stance", LOL.  It always bothered me that I had to use those spacers and I STILL felt like I wanted more of a concave appearance.  When I was shopping for the TE-37s, at the time, they offered them in 20x11s but I had opted for the 20x10s as I wasn't sure they would fit.  Well, I wish I had gone 20x11 as I now know the will fit.

When I decided to pull the trigger, I went back to the Ray's Engineering website in order to do some more research.  The 20x10 was offered in their "Face3/S" concave appearance, while the 20x11 was offered in the "Face4/L" variant with additional offset.  Face4 was their most aggressive concave construction:

Come to find out, Volk no longer makes these wheels in that size.  They had been discontinued about a year prior.  I was out of luck.  The TE-37s definitely were my favorites and I should've pulled the trigger on those back when I initially made the purchase.  So what do I do now?

Enter Yokohama Advan.  Another reputable tuner wheel that offers lightweight and stylish, aggressive offset racing wheels.  I started looking around and the only one that came close to attracting my attention was their Advan GT Premium wheels.  I love the simple 5-spoke design and the aggressive concave appearance.

I wasn't 100% sold on the bright racing gold color, but was the closest I could get to the original look of the TE-37s.  They no longer offered the Dark Bronze, despite it still showing on their page.  I went with the 15mm offset so I didn't need to use any spacers anymore.

After a long 14-week wait while they shipped from Japan, I finally got them in:

And I REALLY, REALLY like them:

So how much do they weigh? Well turns out, despite them being a larger wheel than the TE-37, they are actually 2 lbs lighter! Winning!

FYI, that block of wood weighed 6.5lbs, so I'm subtracting that to get the final weight.  Had to use it to get the wheel to sit on my mailing scale, LOL.

Now...for tires.  I'm pretty bummed about this part.  I went with some Hankook Ventus ST tires again as they are the only ones that had a size I thought would work: 295/45-20.  Not to many tire companies make that size, and TBH, it isn't ideal.  The tire diameter is now 30.5" vs stock 30.0".  The 275/45-20 I had before gave me a 29.7" diameter.  The objective for me was to stick as close as I can to stock OD, but if I had to change, going slightly under would be preferred as it is an effective way to change gear ratio slightly.  I've now gone in the other direction.  And to make matters worse...

The weight I saved on the wheel was eclipsed by the now-heavier tire...38lbs:

I gained ~3lbs by switching to the new wheel/tire combo! Not winning!:

So, mounted, balanced and riding around, the car is fine, no rubbing at all.  I added the tirestickers again and I actually like the "stance" way better:

There is visibly less wheel well gap and ride height.  Who would think 1/2" taller tire could look so different.  I will say, I get WAY more looks and snapped-necks with these wheels than I ever did with the TE-37s.

I'm just not 100% happy with the tires (weight). So, I'm still searching for a better one.  My dream tires would be a set of Nitto NT05R, but they don't make a size I can use (or WANT to use, is a better way of putting it).  To open up my options, I've recently been entertaining the idea of going with some 305/40-20s that will bring me closer to a diameter I had with the TE-37s, but I'm curious if I'm playing with fire as far as rubbing issues.  I've seen that the ContiSportContact 5P tires come in that size, are grippier than the Hankooks and, from what I've seen online, weigh 35lbs.  That would put me right back at the ~58lbs I had with the Volks and bring my OD down closer to OEM as they are a hair shorter than the 295/45-20s...

I'm also liking what I'm reading about the Pirelli P Zero (Porsche Edition).

...but I really, really want drag radials...LOL.  305/35-20s are just too small and nobody makes a taller drag radial.  Anyway, the car is ever evolving...

Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~256.0 lbs

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Intake Manifold Coolant Pipe Insulation

So about a year ago I went to the drag strip and was racing my Explorer.  There was another guy there with one who was also racing his.  We obviously started talking and I noticed he was always spraying down underneath the intake manifold with ice water after and before a run.  This was when I was still a noob, LOL. He told me there is a coolant pipe that the intake manifold straddles and just bakes that manifold in heat.  I was surprised and intrigued and decided to do something a little better about it.

I went to Tasca Parts and bought a new pipe to keep downtime to a minimum as I already had purchased a new intake manifold for my direct port meth kit I was going to install.  So when I got the pipe in, first thing I did was send it off to Jet Hot Coatings to get a ceramic coating treatment:

I was advised by Jet Hot that their classic polish would accomplish what I'm after better than any of their other offerings based on what it was being used for.

Well, I thought I had done the pinnacle in heat management, but boy was I wrong.  After seeing a post by @mrhighcaliber, I was impressed by the steps he took to mitigate the heat from this hot coolant pipe. So much so, that I had to copy him, so all credit goes to him for this one.

Got some 1" rubber pipe insulation from Home Depot.

You have to get the rubber, not the foam, it won't hold up to the heat.  Well one step further it was wrapped in some metal heat tape.  I had some of that fancy gold stuff from DEI laying around so I decided to use that for me:

So, FYI, there is a technique to wrapping pipe with heat tape.  You can't just do it continuoulsy.  I made that mistake and it looked like ****.  The secret is cutting it into strips.  I watched this video and it all made sense to me.  And looks great.  Tedious but worth it...

https://youtu.be/obLB5CARTU0

Installed onto the manifold:

And finally on the engine!

I did no real datalogging before this and I've done so many other mods at thee same time I did this, there's no real way for me to say how well, if at all, it's gonna work.  But logic says it will at least do something, LOL.  And that's enough for me.  Plus it looks kinda cool.

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

In-Cabin LPFP Access For DW300c

Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10590.msg159068.html#msg159068

So I was really dreading installing the fuel hanger that had installed the DW300c into.

Reason being...I was dreading dropping the fuel tank as we don't have top access from within the vehicle.  This would mean taking the driveshaft down, removing the exhaust, removing the filler neck, all kinds of lines, etc.  As some of you know, I hang out on here a lot and posed the question to see what you guys had to do for any pointers before I tackle the task.  You all proceeded to tell me you have in-car access from a plastic cover under the rear seat...ugh...I got jealous, LOL.

Anyway, I decided to say "&^%$ it!" and see what can be done from the top.  I took the seat out, cut back the carpet and found a small hole with a rubber grommet near where the fuel hanger would be.  I used my boroscope to see what was under it and see what was in the way.  Well, nothing was!  So I made an larger exploratory 2.5" hole that I could easily cap off with a rubber plug I had laying around if I had to abort.

So after closer inspection, I noticed there was parts of the body that are required for the actual structure, but there looked to be a small window I could make to access the fuel hanger without effecting any of the structural integrity.  It would be an odd shape, but it was a flat area that I could easily make a cover plate for when I was done.  Sooooo, I decided to just commit...full send baby!!!

Here's the cutting tools you should try to use.  I would NOT use a cut off wheel as it creates sparks and I am not sure how the fuel vapors are in that vicinity:

Initial rough cut:

Edges sanded and deburred, old hanger cleaned:

Carpet cleaned and trimmed:

WeatherTech mat covering hole, to see how obvious it might when I would get finished:

Well, Now I just would have to make a cover plate, which will have integrated gussets for added rigidity and a rubber gasket to seal it up.  I'll drill and install some rivet nuts and this thing should be super easy to access in the future should I need to!

So latest update:  I installed the new fuel hanger from this access hatch.  OMG, it was awesome how easy it was to get to.  Didn't take a pic of the finished install as it looks exactly like the OEM hanger, LOL. Oh and I used a new hanger o-ring too!

Cardboard template of the cover I will cut on the shears I have at work:

Cut the new plate from 8Ga aluminum plate...pretty thick stuff, won't be putting the indents in as this is way thicker than the sheet metal body.

Comparison of aluminum plate to template:

Rough sanded and filed edges:

Fine sanded and polished edges with finished top/bottom:

Mocked into vehicle:

Gasket cut/sized:  Just need to identify where to place the hardware holes...

Center punch panel bolt holes:

Pilot holes drilled:

Transferred hole locations to gasket:

Holes punched into gasket (yes to the Crocs!):

Rivet nutt holes drilled in body:

Rivet nuts installed:

Had some DynaMat laying around..helps a bit with sound deadening

Panel installed:

Hardware used:

Seat installed:

Easy access when needed!!:

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

MevoTech Front Tie Rod Install

So, if you're anything like me, you sometimes enjoy putting upgraded parts (whether go-fast or OEM improvements) on your vehicle "just cuz" (and I guess if finances allow for it).  Here may be one of those parts.  Mevotech TTX line of parts, specifically the outer tie rod.  The TTX (Terrain Tough) line is supposed to be their super tough, best engineered line of parts, as they do offer a standard OEM replacement level as well.

https://youtu.be/KGXZHvGoiVg

I saw these being newly introduced for the XSport from the Explorer forums and, even though nothing is currently wrong with the OEM ones I have now, I am in the middle of some suspension upgrades and figured, if I'm ever gonna do it, now would be the time.  Got me thinking about my SHO brothers and how it would fit.  Turns out the parts are different between the 2 platforms, but...they do carry an SHO version...

Anyway, just figured I'd share this with you guys if you don't know and may be interested in them.  Not sure what your opinion is of the brand, but they seem worth taking a look at.  They appear pretty well built (although the package does say Made in China) and I do like how they are serviceable.  Rock Auto had em the cheapest for the XSport at right under $32 each, but looks like the SHO version is more like $47 a piece.

MevoTech

Rock Auto

Top View Comparison:

Side View Comparison:

Before Installation:

Removing the tie rod wasn't too hard in my case, but I know in some environments or if it's very old, they can get pretty stuck.  I just hit the top of the threaded stud down with a small-handled 4-pound sledge and it came right out of the knuckle.

After Installation:

Now...for an alignment!

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

RDU Maintenance And Plug Install

Drilled drain plug and filled unit with some Amsoil 80W90 Severe Gear oil:

Service manual calls for 1.22 qts (39 ozs), so had to use a little from a second one. But had to get rid of this silly hanger first:

Smooth the location of the plug:

Drilled (technically drill size "R", but closest fractional size is 21/64") then tapped for 1/8-27 NPT:

I was gonna go with the magnetic NPT drain plug, but I don't like the idea of constantly breaking the seal of an NPT fitting doing maintenance.  Decided on an NPT to Flare fitting adapter:

Now I'll never have to break that NPT seal.  Just undo the cap:

Cap is on tight with an o-ring seal, but just in case, for double protection, here is some adhesive heat shrink to keep it from spinning off over time (that would be catastrophic).  It's easy enough to cut with a razor and peel off when time to do the service:

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

PTU Vent Extension Mod And Engine Oil Change

Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10612.msg159229.html#msg159229

Got the engine as well as the PTU oil done.

Engine Oil: Pretty straight forward, just showing you guys the switch I made from el cheapo middle of the road Pennzoil stuff to some better Amsoil fluid and filter...

Oil filter is about 33% larger than that cheap service station filter I had on there...btw, I WILL be changing that filter sooner than 25,000 miles, lol.

Onto the PTU.  I am still experimenting with beefing up the PTU I have on my bench, but in the meantime, I am still running my original one and decided to do the drain plug and vent tube extension mod.

This PTU fluid is coming from somewhere. Top of the vent tube and vent tube hose was clean, so wondering if it is leaking from somewhere else.

I like the idea of having the drain on the lowest point to get all of it out, so I bypassed the existing drain port and just added the bottom one.  I was only able to drain out 12 ounces...so 6 ounces disappeared somewhere.  When I drilled the hole for the bottom drain, I stuck a paperclip in there (bent like and "L") and spun it around to see if any grease or sludge would be on it as maybe those 6 ounces converted to "grease", but, to my surprise, came out clean.  IDK...weird.  I never had an oily spot on my driveway.

Drain plug installed...matched my RDU drain plug.  Also put heatshrink around it to keep the cap from ever spinning off.

Love the v-bands...so easy, LOL:

With removal of the front downpipe, I could very easily get to the top vent.  By feel of course, but very easy to reach.  Added the hose and was able to get this clamp on tight:

Used this tool to tighten it blind.  Was pretty easy actually:

Bottom end buttoned up:

Removal of the vent cap and placed this barbed fitting for filling only:

For the PTU, I went with some Amsoil 75W140 Severe Gear lube.  Since I only needed 18 ounces, and there's 32 in the quart pack, I poured out 14 ounces and storing it in another bottle for later:

IV bag-style fill job:

Hole was punctured in bottom of pouch. Even so, it really did take quite awhile.  I let it hang there in the hot sun so it got very viscous, I'm sure, but still took a few hours to drain.  On the new PTU, I will be adding a second fill line next to the vent port.  This will keep from fighting the air coming up.

Installed vent cap, zip tied it off to the side and all done!

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

X35Design Phenolic Spacer Improvement

Looks like a great product and look forward to getting it installed to see if it can mitigate IM heat soak issues further.  At the time of this write-up, he didn't have it listed on his website (X35Design) but emailing Steve over there will get you the info you need.

When I mocked it up and placed the hardware in the holes so I can see if I would need to do any port matching, I found it suffered from the same issue as the BBK throttle body.  Not the fault of the spacer, but more the fault of the IM.  The bolts holes are just too large for the hardware and allow for a lot of play.  This would make any attempt at port matching it futile as it would be difficult to place properly when installing it.  So...just as with the BBK, I used the same logic here. And it worked perfect...

https://youtu.be/8Nee7O5FjD8

Spacer with gaskets installed:

Thickness of spacer for those curious:

Dowels created for improvement:
5/16" OD,  0.035" wall thickness, 304 stainless tubing, cut to about 0.8" length (can't be any longer than 0.9")

Picked any 2 holes far apart from each other and drilled with 5/16" drill bit:

Drilled matching holes in spacer, same 5/16" drill bit:

Dowels installed into spacer:

Perfect tight fit onto IM:

Will need minimal port matching, mostly just a little of the spacer needs to be matched to the ports, but Steve did a great job of getting it super close.

There ya go.  I can probably drill the bolt hole very slightly using the same 5/16" drill bit for the match holes in the heads and push those dowels through the spacer slightly.  That would get this setup 100% dead-nuts tight and centered from head to spacer to IM...

Here is a video showing the port matching done on the IM side of the spacer:
https://youtu.be/q_kirU9loc8

On the head side, another 5/16 hole only slightly drilled to accept the alignment dowels:

Both holes drilled (hey, easy now...this is a family oriented forum!):

This is all you need it pushed through on the head side to get it to line up:

Rags stuffed into runners to minimize getting the dust into them while doing the port matching:

Used the dowels and the hardware to keep it secured down while porting:

Video on doing the porting on the head side of the spacer...

https://youtu.be/vFu4HktZLIc

All done and ready to mount:

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Transmission Flush And Drain Plug Install

Had the local Ford dealership do a full fluid exchange so I could put the Amsoil ATF into it. Wanted to do a fluid exchange so that all the old Ford stuff will be replaced with the new Amsoil stuff. I brought them 16 qts, even though it only takes a little over 11. Just got extra in case they needed to push a bit more through. They ended up only using about 13 so I have 3 qts left.

All subsequent transmission services I'll just do myself and do the 5 out/5 in method.

I gave them my final drain plug to install and it's good to go.

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Weight Reduction: Hood Insulation Removal

Not a big mod or one that took a long time...just wanted to do this.  I'm always trying to shave that weight.  Lost 2.5lbs BABY!!!

Pretty straight forward process.  Pop off the retaining fasteners and then pull up on the hood (it sits in some metal tabs toward the middle/rear).

Before removal:

After removal:

Weight:

I really did it for some upcoming mods I'm going to do the hood and wanted to see what it looked like underneath.  And for the record, it's not there to protect the paint, per se`.  It's mostly there for noise insulation.  I'm sure the hood will also get hotter than usual, but not worried about paint melting off or anything, LOL.

Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~258.5 lbs

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Weight Reduction: Rear Wiper Delete

Not much going on here.  Just wanted to clean up the rear window as I NEVER use the wiper.  It's such a simple job, I didn't take many pics at all, so apologies there.

Before photo:

First is taking the wiper off, pretty straight forward.  Just undo the nut on the stud and I used some VERY light taps of a small ballpeen hammer on the end of the stud to break loose the pressed-on wiper mount.  Gotta be careful so you don't break your glass, LOL.

Now, you need to remove all the rear hatch interior panels.  The top "arch" panel is somewhat of a pain to pop off and I did end up breaking 2 of the clip mounts off.  One I was able to epoxy back in place, but the other was a total loss...not too bad as it still attaches properly and firmly, so no issues for now.

Once all the panels are off, just disconnect the connector to the wiper motor and remove the bolts holding it in.  Take out the grommet and now you have a nice open hole in the window:

Oh yes, saved another 2.5 pounds!!! LOL:

As for the block off plate, this is the one I used:  NiceCNC 2002-2005 Civic Rear Wiper Delete

It needed some modification, so not all will be able to use it.  I didn't take photos of what I did either, so apologies there.

So this portion of the exterior part of the bock off fits nicely inside the hole in the rear window:

However there is a small triangular tab near the base that is a notch meant for the rear window of the Civic it is originally designed for:

WARNING: If you do not remove this notch, you WILL shatter your glass as it will put pressure on it, since our vehicles don't have that notch.  You will have to grind it off.  I used a dremel for this.

On the interior portion of the block off plate, this raised portion of the part will hit the inside of the window before the o-ring will, so either you won't get a good seal or, if you crank it too hard, may also break the window.  I used a lathe to turn it down flush with the rest of the body of the plate, but a dremel will work fine as well:

Finally, I made one more modification.  It isn't necessary but will help with the appearance of the plate long term.  I like anodized products and this product comes black anodized.  However, even when hard anodizing is used, black will sometimes tend to fade into a purple.  If it was just standard anodized and not hard anodized, it's possible it will even fade to something approaching a pinkish hue.  Considering this is likely a cheap knock-off made overseas, I am guessing it's the latter.

In order to mitigate this and not have to take everything apart in the future, I decided to paint the exterior part semi-gloss black.  Doing it properly with primer, semi-gloss black and then clear coat...with wet sands in between.

It would've been easier (and dare I say, look better) to have it powder-coated, but to have such a small piece done would be expensive, unless you have your own oven at home or have other items being coated.

After photo:

Anyway, love the look.  We don't get much rain here, so I never used it.  Not to mention, my rig is not a daily driver, so removing it wasn't much of a concern.  Not for everyone, I'm sure.

Weight Reduction Running Tally: ~261.0 lbs

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Removal And Installation Of The Intake Manifold

Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10727.0.html

I ended up doing this for multiple reasons.  Installation of XDI +30% fuel injectors, installation of the X35Designs phenolic spacer, installation of the BBK 70mm throttle body, some heat management of the coolant passage underneath the manifold and finally, installation of my new port injection methanol intake manifold.

It isn't necessarily hard, just tedious and time consuming.  I won't cover the injector install in this thread as that will get covered in another one, just the basic removal, prep and install of the intake manifold.  I also performed the port matching of the phenolic spacer during this, but it is also covered in another thread.

Phenolic spacer thread: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10624.msg159337.html#msg159337/

Getting her ready:

Removal of the hood made it easier to access everything and wasn't hard at all.  It only weighs about 20lbs:

Here's part 01, removal video:
https://youtu.be/Rk8brxLL3VY

How it looks right after removal:

Here's part 02, preparation video:
https://youtu.be/covLFw81EEQ

All prepped:

At this point, I completed the swap-over of the components off the stock throttle body onto the BBK one.  There's a spring in there and some clocking that is necessary...
https://youtu.be/XfGt3zkFhcw

Ready for the intake manifold:

Here's part 03, installation video:
https://youtu.be/sanjzfnVzpw

Got it going in:

Before Shot:

After Shot:

And a side-by-side comparison:

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Trim Intake Manifold Foam Insulator

ONLY REQUIRED WHEN USING A PHENOLIC INTAKE MANIFOLD SPACER.

Doing this was needed in order to be able to use the foam heat insulator that sits beneath the intake manifold when using the X35Designs intake manifold phenolic spacer.  This foam insulator rests snugly on the tops of the injectors as well as the high pressure fuel lines.  However, there is a "lip" around the edge of the foam that holds it under the intake manifold.  Without trimming that "lip", the insulator will hover above the lines and injectors about 3/8" and not make contact.

I couldn't help but felt this allows for heat to soak into the fuel system as well as not "supporting" those components, keeping them firmly in place.  Doing this also happened to help since I added an additional 1/2" thickness around the coolant pipe, so a bit more room was needed to accommodate this.

Some may simply throw this insulator out as I am not 100% sure how effective it is at what it was intended to do, but why not re-use it if possible?

At first, I attempted to use a regular razor blade.  Though it was sharp enough and cut well, it failed to be able to navigate the contours I was hoping to achieve.  So I found that my right-angle air grinder with a sanding attachment normally meant for porting/polishing worked great!  It was so easy and was like sculpting through butter.

Here's a photo of the insulator (Ford PN: AA5Z-6P013-A).  I had already started shaving one half of the "lip" (bottom portion in this photo), so you can see the difference:

Here's how it looks shaved:

The sanding attachment cuts through like butter and is very easy to shape.

Finished trimming:

Mocked up underneath the intake manifold:

I ended up having to trim these chamfers on the ends as it kept the foam that was around the coolant pipe from wrinkling too much as it was pressed tightly against it.

Mocked up on engine:

Finished install:

One change I would make would be to somehow secure the drill into a vise or put this sanding attachment onto a drill press.  It might be a bit easier to sculpt when holding the foam with both hands and having the sanding be stationary.  It cuts so well that it can quickly get away from you if you are not careful.

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

XDI +30% Fuel Injector Installation

So this is a subsection of the larger modification section I was doing with the intake manifold, phenolic spacer and throttle body.  I broke it out separately in order to highlight some of the things I learned along the way.

XDI has some awesome products and really does a lot to support our platform.  Uwe over there is a great resource and can be extremely helpful even if you have a custom build.  He sent me an early version of his SHO injectors, so these are technically his Gen1 version and have a +30% capability, but his latest SHO injectors are true +50%.  Check them out at Xtreme DI.

Here's a short intro video on the upcoming tasks:
https://youtu.be/sjbZmxVbCt4

I took my time on this install as I wanted to make sure I got everything right and not forget any steps.  I'm sure in the video set, some of you may find some things I could've done better.  Let me know, as I'm always open for criticism.

Here's the beginning, removal of everything:
https://youtu.be/g8wyExGxwxs

And here is the preparation of the heads before the installation:
https://youtu.be/SD9ya2M_FsA

This is the tool I was talking about in that video:

Might be able to solve the issue using other methods, but figured I'd just get the right tool for the job.  It's way too expensive for what it is though, tbh.  Not to mention, the bristles definitely have a lifespan, so if this was something you had to do often, you'd be having to purchase another tool over time.  Anyway, it worked well and gave me peace-of-mind so that's worth something, right?

Here's the preparation of the actual rails with the injectors, before installation into the heads:
https://youtu.be/DppwX1WRTWw

If you find some injectors sticking into the rail itself, I used this to tool (Craftsman Lock Ring Pliers #47386) to pop it out easily:

Used the caps and plugs Uwe provided with the new injectors for storing the old ones:

Rails getting ready for the injectors:

Since it was off the engine, trimmed that hook bracket off the new HP fuel line.  Just give you a bit more room to adjust it as it's not used anyway.

Before:

After:

Also shaved down the head of that bolt it normally connects to.

Actual installation:
https://youtu.be/lEzkWRQNYfA

After this, just gotta proceed with installation of the rest...phenolic spacer and intake manifold (covered in a different thread).  Although I've heard you can at least start the vehicle up and maybe idle it, I wasn't going to risk it.  Luckily it's not a daily driver for me, so it wasn't a big deal to wait for Brad at AJP to get me an updated tune.

Here's the injector calibration sheet I needed to provide Brad for tuning:

Got the new preliminary tune in, did a full coolant flush and took it out for a small romp around town and man, this thing is beastly.  I am doing datalogging with Brad currently so we'll see when this iteration is finalized, but I'm impressed so far.

Thanks Uwe!!!

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Changing And Trying Out Brisk Spark Plugs

Original Post: https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,10700.0.html

This is sort of a how-to on how I do my plug changes as well as getting away from the FoMoCo SP-542 and trying out a different plug.  It remains to be seen how well it will work out for me, but I will definitely keep you guys updated.

So on the advice of a pretty good local tuner, I decide to try out some Brisk spark plugs (Brisk Racing).  There wasn't necessarily anything wrong with the 542s I was running, but with the power goals and modifications I am shooting for, I wanted to attempt one additional step colder of a plug (OEM was 534s, heat range 6, 542s are range 7) by going heat range 8 to see if I can squeeze some timing out of her.  Although I have limited personal experience with Brisk, a lot of top shops and tuners use these things.  I did some research and on the advice of that local tuner, decided on trying out the Silver Racing plugs (hey, it has Racing in the name, so it MUST be good, lol).  They are heat range 8, which is 2 steps colder than OEM and it remains to be seen if I can get a bit more timing out of these or if they will just foul out.  Oh, and they are Made in the USA so that's a plus, right?

First thing is getting those connectors off the coils.  Slide back the red clip on the coil connector, it's easy enough with a small flat head screwdriver:

Then just press the clip retainer and slide off the connector.  After disconnecting that, use an 8mm socket to remove the coil retaining bolt, then pull out the coil. Even though I only complete one cylinder at a time so as not to confuse things, I still typically mark the coil with a sharpie identifying which cylinder it came from.

Before you take out the old plug, it is important to use some air to blow out any debris that may be residing in that spark plug well so that it doesn't fall into the cylinder.  You'd be surprised how much junk gets blown out of there, despite them being "sealed".

After pulling the old spark plug, I look at the condition of it, mark it with a sharpie as well and I personally keep my old plugs for at least until the next plug change to compare them to the previous set.  So they go in a zip lock and stored away.

Here's the new plugs:

Side-by-side comparison:

Tip/electrode difference:

I had the SP-542s gapped to 0.26 and went with the same on the Brisk plugs.

I use an old piece of rubber hose to put onto the end of the new plug as it makes it a bit easier to install by hand into the well. But before I install it, I give it a good thin coating of some anti-seize.  You will thank yourself later if you do this, trust me.

Factory service manual says torque to 133 in-lbs, not much, I know.

If you convert the in-lbs to ft-lbs you get 11.1.  Comparing to the recommendation provided by Brisk, it falls right in line (the plugs are conical seat, 14mm thread diameter going into an aluminum head).

After installing the plug, make sure to use a small amount of dielectric grease (I like to use Dow Corning #4) inside the coil boot to help keep moisture out as well as ensuring it doesn't adhere to the plug and become a nightmare to remove for the next plug change.  In the photo showing how much is coming out of the tube is the amount I usually use.

After that, installation is the opposite of removal.

Some tips to be mindful of:

1)  If you have the composite valve covers like I do, be very careful when torquing the coil retaining bolt.  The threaded hole is just a metal insert that can spin on you if over-torqued.  If you spin it too badly, that's it...I don't really know of a fix other than getting a whole new valve cover, maybe some sort of epoxy.  The book says 62 in-lbs, then another 50 degrees, but TBH, I did that spec on one of my retaining bolts the last time I changed the plugs and it began to spin (yes, I checked to make sure I was in-lbs and not ft-lbs).  So before I let it get too bad, I just left it.  Luckily it was in pretty tight and didn't have any issues the entire time I had those 542s in.  This time around I was just very careful to do it by hand and get them as tight as I felt comfortable. That seemed to work pretty well as they are all solidly in there.

2)  If you have an XDI HPFP, you're going to have to remove the low and high side fuel lines as well as the top 2 bolts to spin it a bit to access the coil on cylinder 4.  I think I heard XDI had a redesign, but can't confirm that.

Anyway, as mentioned, I'll keep you folks updated once I get her back on the road.  After doing some research on the Brisk product line, I gotta say, I'm fairly impressed so far.  Now the proof will be when I get some miles on 'em.

EDIT: It's been brought to my attention that there is an easier way to get to the #4 coil if you have an XDI HPFP. Simply remove the low side fuel line AND remove the low side -6AN fitting out of the HPFP body (there is just an o-ring behind it) and that will give you enough clearance to remove the coil. No need to remove the high side, 2 top bolts, or spin it. I have not done this method yet, but will the next time I do a plug change.

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Extend And Move Hood Anti-Theft Switch

So this modification is being done because I have some plans for the AirAid CAI...I'm going to have a cover made for it in order to make it truly separated from the hot engine air.  It's location makes it more difficult to make the cover, so moving it to the other side was necessary.

Looking straight down on the airbox, you can see how the bottom right where the switch is at would get in the way, or at least not leave much room, of a cover for the airbox:

Another angle:

The box sitting inside the airbox is my battery tender...disregard.

Close up:

On the other side is a good location, very similar to where it is on the original side:

Just used a step drill to achieve the proper size.  Ensure you measure the original hole to accurately get the new hole dimensions:

Installed:

Ready for testing to ensure it switches appropriately:

Conducting testing, and all is well.  Switch changes appropriately when hood is opened and closed:

Now it's time to get rid of that extra material:

I just used a dremel with a cut-off wheel attachment to get the major part of it out, then changed to the dremel sanding wheel attachment to finalize the shape and smooth it out a bit.

Finished product.  You can see how much more room that gave me:

Now, moving onto the wiring and actually extending the connector.  I didn't like how the wire was coming around this portion of the radiator core support, so I drilled a hole through it to make it a bit more of a straight shot.  Not a necessary step, though:

In order to fit the wire through that hole, had to cut the connector off.  We will be splicing it longer anyway, so no biggie.  I gave myself a little bit of extra wire in order to have room for the splice:

Fed the loose end of the wire through that hole previously made:

Close up of the splice connector:

And made a video of the complete wiring process:
https://youtu.be/wu9sRW7cgbM

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Upgrade From Sync2 To Sync3

Easiest mod ever. Took me all of 20 minutes to install...gorgeous and I'm in love with my interior again, lol...

Got all my stuff from Jason at FLVP Mods

Sure I could've hunted the individual parts down myself, but it was an easy one-stop shop with everything I need done for me...makes it easier:

Just have to pop off the 2 side strips, remove the control console, remove the screen/APIM and the old USB hub.

Here's an excellent video detailing the process:
https://youtu.be/UMvzU0Wah1Y

It came pre-loaded from FLVP Mods with the Explorer splash screen but those can be changed in FORSCAN:

I really, really hated Sync2...

 

[Ecoboost_xsport]

Changeover To E85 Pump Fuel

So after contemplating when I really wanted to make the switch over to ethanol and also getting some inspiration from Brad over at AJPTurbo, I decided to finally make that switch.  I still have a few things I'm working on to get even more fuel to the engine, but I think it's time to get started down that path.  Many thanks to @p_coatsofboise, the current 1/4-mile world record holder of this gen Explorer, for continuing to motivate me to push this platform further.

So after getting a starter tune for e85 from Brad, I went to one of our local Shell stations that has some Propel e85 to fuel up a gas can worth (note the sticker that says "MINIMUM 70% ETHANOL"...it will be important shortly):

After getting back to the house, draining the remaining 100 octane I had left in the tank (it will be put to good use in the motorcycle), I filled up with the 5 gallons of e85, loaded the tune and started her up.

All is well as I saw the ethanol content gauge slowly climb from 7% that was in the 100 octane.  After about 30 minutes of idling and driving slowly around the neighborhood to get that fuel through the system, the highest I saw my meter was this:

I thought to myself, this meter has to be wrong! I know there is a range that pump e85 is truly at, but at least I was expecting a little over the minimum 70% as it was stated.  Well, I decided to test the fuel to verify independent of the gauge:

...and to my dismay, after doing the calculations like 20 times to verify the results, the ethanol content came to measured 66%, not too far off the gauge, so I knew that thing was correct.

That means the station has some poor quality e85.  Not sure how to take this as it doesn't even meet the State-mandated minimum.  And not sure where to go from here.  I can drive around town to find a better station, which is what I will likely do.  Or I can go full-on Simple Jack and just get a hold of some Ignite fuel as it's accessible where I am and would deliver more consistency...but not sure how I really feel about doing this just yet.  I think I will do some searching for some better quality pump e85 around town first.

I went ahead and did some hard pulls just to see how it feels (the starting tune is dialed back so we can ease into the power), and it feels quite a bit different.  I'm interested to see where this road takes me...

...and so the adventure continues...

TEST YOUR FUEL PEOPLE!!!

Good resource if you want to do this at home or if you don't have one of those pocket testers:
http://iqlearningsystems.com/ethanol/downloads/E85test.pdf

I personally like knowing the science behind the calculations, so I prefer this over one of those $15 Amazon test kits...but those work too, I'm sure...

UPDATE: 23OCT2020
Went to fill at a different station and got way better quality ethanol.  Looks like I may have found the station to fill at. I took a sample as well and will test it.  I think it's even better than the gauge states as it is being mixed with the poor quality stuff I already had in the tank:

EDIT: Tested it and it came back at 83%...really good stuff!  Too bad I had about 5 gallons of crappy stuff in there bringing it down to 75%