*HOW-TO* 2013+ Brakes on a 2010-2012...THEY WORK!!
- Thread starter timbo
- Start date
Primalzer said:
Calipers attach to the brackets in a different manner, so no. The 2010-2012 calipers are attached to the bracket by an 8mm through-bolt to the slide pin. The 2013+ has 14mm threads on the slide pin that go into the caliper and subsequently the bracket, no extra bolt.
timbo said:
Taking the plunge, and bought the new brackets, rotors, pads, and splash guards. Was hoping the calipers would be the same, but glad I came back here. Still just going to collect parts for the time being, and when I'm closer to doing the swap (i.e. it's not 15 degrees outside) I'll buy the calipers and attempt the core return...We'll see how that goes.
Most of my parts for big brakes are incoming (waiting on the calipers until I'm closer to the actual swap so I'm not rushed with the core.) Made this quick spreadsheet to track prices...I will say that Tasca parts, where many get parts, has a great selection, but their shipping prices are pretty outrageous, and why most of my purchases are RockAuto. These are all Motorcraft parts. Probably should have listed shipping prices. But this give you at least an idea of pre-shipping/tax price for all the parts needed. Let me know if I left something off.
Primalzer said:
Most of my parts for big brakes are incoming (waiting on the calipers until I'm closer to the actual swap so I'm not rushed with the core.) Made this quick spreadsheet to track prices...I will say that Tasca parts, where many get parts, has a great selection, but their shipping prices are pretty outrageous, and why most of my purchases are RockAuto. These are all Motorcraft parts. Probably should have listed shipping prices. But this give you at least an idea of pre-shipping/tax price for all the parts needed. Let me know if I left something off.
So a little update...Did the install the weekend before this last one. I've always had a spongey pedal, but had always attributed it to the front pads being low (or so I was told) and the small front calipers.
Most of the parts went on without issue. The only part that I didn't get on was the splash shield listed above. Unless I was going to create a new hole, it wasn't fitting on the existing hub. One other little issue was that my rotors didn't come with the vent holes between the rotor hat and rotor surface, like the other models get. Maybe I got the wrong model number? Or Maybe Ford stopped putting the holes on. I don't think it should hamper performance or anything, just an observation. Got my hands on a Motive power bleeder and tried that route. After the first bleed through (actually a full fluid swap), went and took a test drive. The pedal was as spongey as ever (maybe worse?) and panic stops were a slow stop, definitely not a hurried affair. Went back, and bled it 2 more times. 2nd time getting a couple little bubbles, but nothing crazy. Clean and clear fluid. The 2nd time, just for good measure, clean and clear fluid with absolutely no bubbles. Huh.
That Monday took the car to the Ford dealer (the vehicle is under an extended warranty). Told them of my issues and they got to work. They ended up replacing the right rear rotor (the left rear had been replaced under warranty, a few weeks before.) They re-bled the system, but it was still spongey and brakes weren't stopping the vehicle as they should. They took off the master cylinder bench tested and bled, and re-installed (it had apparently passed the pressure tests.) They told me to come and test drive it, to see if it felt right. It did not. No difference. They dug back in, and finally tested the hydraulic control unit/ABS module, and that tested out bad. Replaced under warranty. Friday afternoon, picked up my car, and had working brakes! Better than they had ever been. Still not as good as the 2016 EcoBoost Flex loaner I was given, but at least I could get the ABS going on wet pavement (never was able to do that before.) So after all was said and done, I have the upgraded front rotors, calipers, and pads from 13+ SHO/Police, new rear rotors, and a new ABS module. Not bad for about $400 all in.
What is the part number for the ABS module?
Timbo, Primalzer, and Shodded has anyone put together a complete list of parts and part numbers yet?
From MC to brake lines. @primalzer you're my hero with that spread sheet!
Need to get this complete upgrade done asap!
Anyone have any suggestions on Shocks and Struts for a 2012? I do not want to lower it with H&R springs, as I do drive in snow and the roads are bad.
But wouldn't mind it dropping a little, but can't bring myself to do the coilovers, as it's $800 for a "nice" to have...
Thoughts?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Timbo, Primalzer, and Shodded has anyone put together a complete list of parts and part numbers yet?
From MC to brake lines. @primalzer you're my hero with that spread sheet!
Need to get this complete upgrade done asap!
Anyone have any suggestions on Shocks and Struts for a 2012? I do not want to lower it with H&R springs, as I do drive in snow and the roads are bad.
But wouldn't mind it dropping a little, but can't bring myself to do the coilovers, as it's $800 for a "nice" to have...
Thoughts?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The only "drop" I have seen without springs/coilovers is cutting the rear springs a bit. Unfortunately no aftermarket shock options, now as to PP vs non-PP shocks, IDK. If the roads are bad enough, coilovers are not a good way to go even with the adjustable height feature.
Cutting the rear springs
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5204
Cutting the rear springs
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5204
jimmyducati
New member
Just finished this install using powerstop rotors and pads/Motorcraft brackets and calipers. Have only done the front, as my rear EBC rotors and pads are working nicely and have lots of life left. The disks/pads are the Z37 "Top Cop" package available from Rockauto. Now Im just waiting on my rear calipers to have a seized slider or worn pads, they will be upgraded along with a +13 booster and M/C.
Not that I know of. I put together the list of parts I used that I know will fit. As for the Booster and Master, that is a separate upgrade and while I believe they should be done at the same time, they are not required to be. There is a full write-up with Ford part #s for that.Agent502 said:
booster/mc retrofit
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,609
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,609
jimmyducati
New member
SHOdded said:
Literally the only reason to do the +13 brakes and booster/MC at the same time is to reduce the amount of brake bleeding you have to do. I have noticed zero ill effect on the 2010 Booster/MC using the +13 "police" brakes. Very smooth application, engagement begins at the top of the pedal travel and is very firm. I do agree that you will likely get the best performance with the entire system upgraded, but its by no means a necessity to do them on any timeline other than as the parts need to be replaced.