How to fix weird Knock Retard
- Thread starter ShoBoat
- Start date
I can see getting a bit more economy with premium fuel like 91 over 87. I personally recorded a LOR of -0.03 when our explorer. The truck was pulling lots of timing to account for the crappy 87. Less power in theory would require more pedal to climb a given grade and maintain a given speed for example. Also towing a load. Will it run on 87 sure it will. To say the car/truck will not take advantage of the higher octane is nonsense. With how FMC controls their engines today it will. Is it the same as an after market tune um no lol. Keep in mind that our truck is a non EB 3.5.
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wasinger3000
New member
I'll do my best. Problem is this is all a one way kinda trip so not one mile will be the same as the last. That and the truck is still "breaking in". It's finally getting 18 mpg instead of the 14 when it was brand new.SHOnUup said:
If it's anything like on the Edge, it's more about patience and wiggle room! Anyway, the video by FordTechMakuloco kind of walks you thru it:
Ford 3.5L DOHC Upper Intake Removal Procedure
A bit easier on the F150:
Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement
Ford 3.5L DOHC Upper Intake Removal Procedure
A bit easier on the F150:
Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement
Ok, today the car was still showing intermittent signs of hesitation after last night's brief drive, so I decided to do the knock sensor wire wrap followed by the zip tie secure and black tape.
Container of assorted color zip ties + wire wrap cost $14 at Advance.
The pics I took after I finished:
1) a top down shot of the engine compartment showing where this little trouble maker is located
2) blue wire loom sleeve I placed over the knock sensor wire (about 5" long split tube, gradually fed it down over wire)
3) zip tied the new blue piece to an adjacent factory ribbed wire loom (this will prevent the new blue plastic loom from moving)
4) zip tied the area above the sensor plug to other adjacent lines (keep the whole thing stable)
5) black taped the top portion
6) black taped the bottom portion (I tightened that loose end after I took the pic)
I spent 45-60 min on it as it's a tough place to work (black taping was a huge pain), plus I removed the air box and it's first section of tubing to better see things.
Thanks again to bpd1151 and ShoBoat for their discovery and subsequent cures of the problem!
Afterwards, I went on a short drive to the store and can say it certainly feels like the problem is gone. I'll be going a a longer drive tonight, will report back ...
Container of assorted color zip ties + wire wrap cost $14 at Advance.
The pics I took after I finished:
1) a top down shot of the engine compartment showing where this little trouble maker is located
2) blue wire loom sleeve I placed over the knock sensor wire (about 5" long split tube, gradually fed it down over wire)
3) zip tied the new blue piece to an adjacent factory ribbed wire loom (this will prevent the new blue plastic loom from moving)
4) zip tied the area above the sensor plug to other adjacent lines (keep the whole thing stable)
5) black taped the top portion
6) black taped the bottom portion (I tightened that loose end after I took the pic)
I spent 45-60 min on it as it's a tough place to work (black taping was a huge pain), plus I removed the air box and it's first section of tubing to better see things.
Thanks again to bpd1151 and ShoBoat for their discovery and subsequent cures of the problem!
Afterwards, I went on a short drive to the store and can say it certainly feels like the problem is gone. I'll be going a a longer drive tonight, will report back ...
Thats a great way to avoid the dealership,also would suggest adding a 1/4 hose clamp on the pressure hose before it pops off and causes any issues. Z http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4863.0;attach=7624;image
ZSHO said:
I'm sorry, that pic was extremely small. Where is this hose, and what does it do?
Thanks
ShoBoat said:
BiGMaC said:
Well, I just got back from an extended drive. The wrapping/stabilizing of that wire did a lot!
Temps were ~82 deg and I'd say prior to the wrapping, +50% full throttle runs were iffy (flat, lacking power). Now, I'd say it's down to ~20%. I experienced levels of acceleration I do not think I've felt in the 3 months since I've owned the car. Tires squealing loudly on turns, real "put you back in your seat" acceleration on downshifts. A definite improvement!
I wish I had the instrument you guys use to measure knock as proof of my improvement, what is it?
Thanks Again All
I do apologize for that,the issue is the wategate hoses have a tendency to pop off because Ford never secured all the hoses,heres a thread regarding the issue of over boost conditions followed by a great video from 14SHOCAR. Z http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,4863.0.html
ZSHO said:
Thanks a bunch. Are these hoses popping off on cars with a tune/higher boost, or is it happening with stock cars as well?
SHOdded said:
No Android Device = Me Cr@p Out Of Luck
lol
P.S. I haven't cleared my car of KR's, so it might take a while before it "resets" itself. Right?
ecoboostsho
New member
You can definitely measure knock with Forscan...haven't tried the lite version yet but I would be surprised if it isn't there...
