PTU oil change write up?

OK - but what does BG stand for? I'd consider using a solvent, but am concerned about getting it flushed out properly.
Here are some pictures...
 
I did another PTU drain and fill today (and took the pic's above). I measured the amount of fluid I drained and it was 400 ML and I suppose some residual in the drain pan etc. - so short of the 530 ml the manual says. The last time I filled it, it was at the bottom of the fill hole and this time when I removed the fill plug there was a bit of oil dripping out of it so I'm not losing any oil. The front was up on some 6" ramps so perhaps that is the difference as well since the fill hole is at the back of the PTU. Next time I'll try putting the back up on the ramps as see what I put in (if I can get at the PTU properly). There could be some more sludge still in the PTU also as the oil is still coming out black but not nearly as pudding like as it did originally.

Regarding a question I had about sort of a sucking sound when I first remove the fill plug and whether or not my vent was working, as suggested, I tried blowing air into the bottom drain hole and I could hear air coming out from somewhere. I put my fingers up at the vent and it didn't seem to be coming out from that - so it's a mystery. However I do know that it does vent - from somewhere - so it's not building up any pressure when it gets hot which is good.

I also tried probing the drain hole to see if I could insert a temperature probe. Unfortunately there is something just inside to the front of the PTU hole which would probably prevent me from inserting anything. Maybe I'll just glue a temperature sensor to the outside and watch that to see how high it goes. Hopefully my heat shield extension and regular oil changes will keep the temperature a bit cooler and not cook the oil. It doesn't seem to smell or appear burnt at all.  If I was to drill another hole, I'd move it back about 1/2" and then probably would have a clear hole to insert a probe.
 
Thanks for the pics & observations :thumb:  I would use ATF as a "solvent" to try and flush the PTU (it is thinner and has detergents), if you did not want to use kerosene or similar fluid.  A bit of mixing with gear oil won't hurt it, not like when the seal between the trans and PTU leaks!
 
Thanks SHO.
I think I will use some ATF next time I D&F. Others say to raise the front wheels and let it run for a few minutes. Won't this cause the rear wheels to kick in and push the vehicle forward. I certainly don't want that to happen.
What about driving it around gently for say 10 minutes with the ATF in the PTU? That would warm it up and allow it to hopefully clean up the rest of the sludge.
 
Not too crazy either about having the engine running & gears shifting while car is on jackstands, and on just 2 ...  On a lift, no issues.  If you were to try it, definitely would have to chock the rear wheels and do it in Park or Neutral, those are the 2 gears where the driveshaft is not engaged.  Don't know if it is important to row through the gears for the PTU like it is for the trans.  I do see this in the 2013 MKS manual:

PTUs without a drain plug
NOTE: The lubricant capacity of the PTU is 0.53L (18 oz).
[list type=decimal]
[*]With the PTU lubricant level even with the bottom of the fill opening, remove as much lubricant as possible from the PTU using an Oil Suction Gun 303-D104 (D94T-9000-A).

[*]Refill the PTU lubricant level even with the bottom of the fill opening and install the filler plug hand-tight.

[*]With the aid of an assistant, rotate the front tires a minimal of 3 times in the same direction.

[*]Remove the filler plug. Using an Oil Suction Gun 303-D104 (D94T-9000-A), remove as much lubricant as possible from the PTU .

[*]Refill the PTU lubricant level even with the bottom of the fill opening and install the filler plug hand-tight.

[*]With the aid of an assistant, rotate the front tires a minimal of 3 times in the same direction.

[*]Remove the filler plug. Using an Oil Suction Gun 303-D104 (D94T-9000-A), remove as much lubricant as possible from the PTU .
[/list]

I would much prefer to R&R the fluid, drive around normally for a few hundred miles, then repeat, esp. if DIY'ing.
 
My thoughts are that in Park or Neutral, the Transmission is disengaged from the output drive to the PTU since the wheels wouldn't turn - so those positions wouldn't spin any gears in the PTU. I don't have a lift - and turning the front wheels 3 times by hand seems pointless unless just to ensure the bearings get coated with new oil but that wouldn't really do any cleaning . I haven't done the wheel rotation when completing the drain and fills and have had no problems. Actually the vehicle is cruising much nicer now with the cleaner PTU - it just seems to coast easily and acceleration takes less pedal. Everyone should do this IMO.

I think I'll try the ATF fluid next time and take it for a short and very easy drive to slosh the ATF around and hopefully clean the PTU nicely. Hopefully nothing gets dislodged which could cause a problem.
Will post observations...
 
I drained the PTU (again) and of course black oil came out.  This is about the 6th or 7th time I've done it (I lost count). Then I refilled with ATF to act as a cleaner/solvent, took it for a drive for about 10 minutes to give it a chance to slosh around and clean things up and drained it. ATF fluid was hot, really thin and dirty (pretty black) but no lumps (or parts lol) came out so this will be the last refill with 75W140 until the next engine oil change. Hopefully this ATF flush will have gotten most of the rest of the goo that may have been in there out but I'm not expecting it to clean up too much more. It would be nice if it stayed a bit cleanish for a while, but new oil should make the PTU happy. At least it is better than it was before the first drain. At least I'm good and quick with a PTU drain and fill now. The PTU will get an oil change each time I change the engine oil. Probably over kill but oil is cheap compared to the cost of a new PTU.
 
Post up your business card so we can send people your way for PTU fluid changes :)

Glad the ATF cleaning went ok.  After the next couple fluid changes, if you consider moving up to a better product, consider Amsoil, Royal Purple etc.  Amsoil would be my 1st choice, I love their propaganda LOL.
 
I like Amsoil too but for this I used Lucas 'heavy duty' synthetic fluid (actually I think all 75W140 is synthetic). It was only $18 for a liter so using a hair over half means it's only a bit more than $9.00 per change. Pretty cheap - not the $200 that Stealerships charge! I've used RP in the differential for my Mustang and it seems to get quite dirty so I switched it to Amsoil. Maybe when I'm out of the Lucas stuff, I'll treat the MKX to Amsoil!

No business cards - but if anyone in Calgary wants to put in a drain I'd be happy to help and I have the tap already (and the intestinal fortitude too).

I went to a tranny shop to ask them to save a broken PTU if they get one in because I want to experiment with the vent. He said my PTU was probably shot because, at 85000 miles, it has already turned the oil to liquid goo, they are a poor design and fail lots. He thinks I wasted my money changing the oil (probably because now he won't get to change it LOL. Hopefully he is wrong - it runs quite nicely now but that is probably my imagination but I have heard that in others' posts as well which made me think I'm not altogether nuts LOL.
 
polskifacet said:
For non PP you dont have to remove anything. You can fit your hand and a wrench next to the ptu and fairly easily unscrew the plug. Drilling and tapping the ptu is really the way to go for draining otherwise you have to do magic to get a good amount of fluid sucked out through the fill plug.

ptu_drain.jpg


You can see the plug sticking out a bit where the o2 sensor ends.
Click to expand...

How bad was installing the plug? Looked pretty tight to get a drill in there when I eye-balled it this past weekend.
 
I change my PTO fluid EVERY oil change, period. I don't know if its just the minor differences in each car, but its easy as can be on mine.. A Huskey brand 3/8" ratchet will slide right onto the fill plug and it comes out without using all the extension mumbo jumbo others use. I also use Amsoil sever gear 75/140 and although it comes out BLACK, it still comes out pretty fluid unlike the 1st couple times.

I plan on drilling out the bottom of the PTO to install the drain plug, but I have to get my F250 rebuilt first to have a backup vehicle.
 
B. Rock said:
polskifacet said:
For non PP you dont have to remove anything. You can fit your hand and a wrench next to the ptu and fairly easily unscrew the plug. Drilling and tapping the ptu is really the way to go for draining otherwise you have to do magic to get a good amount of fluid sucked out through the fill plug.

ptu_drain.jpg


You can see the plug sticking out a bit where the o2 sensor ends.
Click to expand...

How bad was installing the plug? Looked pretty tight to get a drill in there when I eye-balled it this past weekend.
Click to expand...

I had a fairly long drill bit and the exhaust was blocking me. Aftermarket downpipes would make it even worse. Either you take that section of exhaust off (when stock) or buy a extra long drill bit.
 
Randy Stinchcomb said:
Can't you use sumthing like a Jabsco pump and suck it up and out thru the fill??
Explorer if that makes a difference
Click to expand...

The XSport has a drain plug; the problem is filling. The XSport has a cooled PTU, and the "fill hole" contains a temp sensor that must be removed. No way to remove this without taking out part of the downpipe.

I took a short cut and refilled the PTU from the vent tube (after putting a longer hose on it).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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